Getting ready to go through the rear suspension. Which spot would be best for the jack stands, 1 or 2? I use a block of 2x4 between the jack stands and frame, so I'd think that would help distribute the weight for option 1. Option two starts getting in the way of the lower control arm working space. Thanks!
Rear Jack Stand Point?
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I've used both spots many times . Lol
Guess it just depends on where will they be the most supportive-but outta your way
Guess it just depends on where will they be the most supportive-but outta your way
2 would be the best. The metal is pretty thin on 1. A better option would be to install some subframe connectors and put the jack stands under them.
I've used #1 several times on cars when working on lcas, a small piece of wood helps, just always be mindful when working under a car.
Absolutely! All the years that I have crawled under cars, that is one of my greatest death fears...being crushed by a car; similar to being burned alive in a fire... I have jack stands that back up the jack stands
I figured if I get the connectors on, then that would allow me to leverage the #2 option, but slide the jack stand down the subframe connector enough to get it out of the way of the lcas.
My subframes cover option 2. So I put the jack stands there. The stands cradle the subframes and everything feels nice and stable. At some point my car was on a frame machine or jacked up improperly on area 1 and the area is caved in. It bothers me so I've spent the last few nights straightening it out. That how I know how thin and weak section 1 is.
@Dan02gt and @karthief what subframe connectors are you guys running?
I started this build out on a tight budget. I'm also going to keep the horse power at or below 400 as I don't need anymore than that. I figured the SVE subframe connectors (not the full length) would be just fine for what I'm doing. After doing more reading on the web, I'm second guessing myself and have a feeling that I should have went with something like the MM full length connectors. But do I really need the MM, or can I be safe and content with the budget friendly SVE connectors?
Thoughts?
Thanks!
I started this build out on a tight budget. I'm also going to keep the horse power at or below 400 as I don't need anymore than that. I figured the SVE subframe connectors (not the full length) would be just fine for what I'm doing. After doing more reading on the web, I'm second guessing myself and have a feeling that I should have went with something like the MM full length connectors. But do I really need the MM, or can I be safe and content with the budget friendly SVE connectors?
Thoughts?
Thanks!
First of all, I do not have sfc, I know shame on me, I got a swing'n deal on a bunch of stuff that included 2 sets of full length through the floor sfcs, 2 sets of strut tower braces and some other stuff. I will not be useing the ttf sfcs and I got a mm shock tower brace that fits much better than the two others I have. I will be getting mm sfcs, the fit is better, they are beefier and well, they come highly recommended by most here that have more experience than I.
I have a roughly 300 hp threshold, thats all I need for what I do with this car, easy on the wallet, easy on parts, and I can drive it in stop and go traffic or across country at 80 or 90 mph all day long with no worries.
I hang with several guys that have 'race' cars that can be street driven. A couple of them are over the 600 hp level and all will agree, once over the 400 na hp level they become unruly on the street, not so much a turbo car, they seem to be more streetable.
Those are my thoughts and in no way endorsed by stangnet.com, it's members or its sponsors.
Now on with the regularly scheduled banter.
I have a roughly 300 hp threshold, thats all I need for what I do with this car, easy on the wallet, easy on parts, and I can drive it in stop and go traffic or across country at 80 or 90 mph all day long with no worries.
I hang with several guys that have 'race' cars that can be street driven. A couple of them are over the 600 hp level and all will agree, once over the 400 na hp level they become unruly on the street, not so much a turbo car, they seem to be more streetable.
Those are my thoughts and in no way endorsed by stangnet.com, it's members or its sponsors.
Now on with the regularly scheduled banter.
I've used #2 with a small block of wood many times.
I've also put the stands on the ends of the rear axle as well, and slide the wheels under where #2 is for safety.
Bascially if I go under a car, I slide so much junk under there to make sure if it comes down, it comes down on plenty of other stuff first.
I've also put the stands on the ends of the rear axle as well, and slide the wheels under where #2 is for safety.
Bascially if I go under a car, I slide so much junk under there to make sure if it comes down, it comes down on plenty of other stuff first.
I run the standard length MM ones, and they are just fine for my needs. I went with MM because I knew they would fit properly and they did.
You are making the right choice with the subs first.
I don't believe any point on a fox is good for a jack or jack stands other than the rear itself.
I speak as someone that has crushed and bent a bunch of locations. It's a real pita to reshape those parts when you grow up and realize what a jackass you were.
As for subs, part of the reason I like the MM's is you know in the future if you goto a torque arm it will mate up correctly.
I don't believe any point on a fox is good for a jack or jack stands other than the rear itself.
I speak as someone that has crushed and bent a bunch of locations. It's a real pita to reshape those parts when you grow up and realize what a jackass you were.
As for subs, part of the reason I like the MM's is you know in the future if you goto a torque arm it will mate up correctly.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
from the rear the safest point is under the pumkin and with jackstands under the axles.. If you need to work on the suspension or brakes I would highly recommend you get a set of full length MM subs and use them as jacking points. I have seen too many bent up torque boxes and frame rails from improper jacking. If that is not an option, I would use #2 and slide a spare tire or other fail safe under the car- better the car ruins your rim and tire than fall and crush you. ...
I did this...I used the maximum motor sport powder coated ones....fit like a dream...the guy that installed them enjoyed the job...changed the drive of the car...stiffened her right up...
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Ya know ... With all this jacking talk...they do make jacking rails for our cars. We'd never have to worry about where to put jack stands again. LMR has them...
I'm thinking about going this route on my fox. I'd love to be able to jack it up like a normal car.
I'm thinking about going this route on my fox. I'd love to be able to jack it up like a normal car.
MM subframes are great do not get me wrong. But like i said about 3 weeks ago in another thread- Metal is metal. One guys is no different then the others.
To go throw away through the floors for regular weld ins is laughable in my opinion. When through the floors are done correct you cant tell they are there. They sit higher up int he floor so no low hanging connector. Just my .02
As far as jack stand points. I used the number 2 spot pictured for along time before my SFCs were in the car. Esp if i had to do something that required me to move the rear up and down
To go throw away through the floors for regular weld ins is laughable in my opinion. When through the floors are done correct you cant tell they are there. They sit higher up int he floor so no low hanging connector. Just my .02
As far as jack stand points. I used the number 2 spot pictured for along time before my SFCs were in the car. Esp if i had to do something that required me to move the rear up and down
LOL metal is not metal. There are different processes for making steel (cold rolled vs hot rolled), different qualities, different alloys... Do you think the steel used in body armor is the same steel as the mild steel plates that they sell at Lowes?
Alloying Elements & Their Effects
- Chromium – Adds hardness. Increased toughness and wear resistance.
- Cobalt – Used in making cutting tools; improved Hot Hardness (or Red Hardness).
- Manganese – Increases surface hardness. Improves resistance to strain, hammering & shocks.
- Molybdenum – Increases strength. Improves resistance to shock and heat.
- Nickel – Increases strength & toughness. Improves corrosion resistance.
- Tungsten – Adds hardness and improves grain structure. Provides improved heat resistance.
- Vanadium – Increases strength, toughness and shock resistance. Improved corrosion resistance.
- Chromium-Vanadium – Greatly improved tensile strength. It is hard but easy to bend and cut.
- Grade 4140 – Chromium Molybdenum Steel
- Grade 4340 – Nickel-Chromium-Molybdenum Steel
- Grade 6150 – Chromium Vanadium Steel
- Grade 8620 – HSLA -Nickel-Chromium-Molybdenum Steel
Now none of these manufactures state what steel they use. It could all be the same but I trust MM to fit better than I trust a part from China and will gladly spend a extra $50 for that.
Ok maybe I should've specified that one guys subframe connectors to another guys wouldn't warrant throwing out a pair of through the floors which are generally much stronger and add much more ridgiity to the chassis when done correctly , then the tie in from end to end underneath the car. That's all I was commenting on . I wasn't getting into metallurgy and engineering composition of different types of metals I'm not a complete moron as though it may have seemed that way by my post . I thought we already understood that I wasn't referring to using steel plates from lowes. That's all .
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