Rear Main/Pilot Bearing Electric Fan Install

So, after a two day long project, which was only suppose to take a day, is finished. PHEW!

New rear main, pilot bearing, clutch kit and the car runs WAY better than before.

The project started off very smooth, until I went to drop the transmission. Got the transmission to budge about an inch, and then it wouldn't pull out all the way. I tried to wiggle, it off, no luck. I jerked and pried for almost 3 hours, with no improvement. I was doing this alone, so I didn't have much help pulling and prying lol. Well after 3 hours, I decided to reach through the housing fork hole and take the bolts off the pressure plate. One by one, turning the crank so the bolts were accessible, I finally got it off. When I got the last bolt off, the tranny dropped! YAY! Lol. I am guessing the transmission was wedged in a very odd way that it wouldn't come loose from the pilot bearing?

Well I got almost everything off, and the while I was loosening the flywheel bolts, they were caked with oil on the threads. I knew here, that it was a rear main leak and not a valve gasket or an oil pan leak.

Taking the rear main seal and the pilot bearing was not hard at all. I don't understand all the difficulties people have/had. looking at my rear main, it looked fine, no visible damage, but it wasn't obviously doing its job anymore. I used a small puch and a mallet, and hit the outer side of the rear main in. Carefully of course, making sure I don't nic the edges or the crank. After I got a decent dent in it, I then used a flathead screw driver and where I put the dent in, and pryed the old one out. It was soo easy, I couldn't believe it. Putting the new one in, was even easier. I applied White Lithium Greese to the outer and inner part of the seal, put it in position and used the old seal as a pusher, while I hit in a cicular motion with a mallet to get it in. Slow and steady was the way to do it. Making sure it was going in even was my biggest concern.

The pilot bearing, I just rented the tool from my auto part store (Advance Auto) for $39 and got every penny back. The bearing came out in two pieces, as I expected. This wasn't a difficult process or anything. Putting the new one in, I used lithium greese once again, applied the bearing in it and used a socket and slightly hit it in place with a 10 oz hammer. Light hits of course and made sure it was going in evenely.

1 week later, no leaks, no problems and the car shifts and drives better than ever.

There was one issue I had. The previous owner used GEAR OIL in the transmission. The is the OEM tranny in a '93, so obviously it takes ATF. I bought Mobile1 Full Synthetic and it makes a "whirling" noise now, but no mechanical issues yet.

While I was doing all this, I did the electric fan setup. Easy as well for the most part. Works very well for right now too. I got the ProForm fan and plan on doing a wire clean up soon in the engine bay. Anyone know of a write up, please share :)

Now for the difficult part, putting on my rear upper and lower control arms! I tried to get the lower one off, but the bolt that connects to the rear end, is seized to my frame. Any ideas on how to get this loose? The nut comes off, but bolt doesn't budge. 1 breaker bar and 1 ratchet later, I gave up. I was thinking some PB Blaster and apply it daily until I get to it, but just unsure if that will do anything. Any helpful tips are much appreciated lol.

Here are pics, and this is the first time I have ever done a rear main and pilot bearing :)
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Nice work!
As for the frozen bolts. A sawzall would be my answer and then upgrade to 1/2" grade 8 hardware from the stock 12mm hardware.
 
Nice work!
As for the frozen bolts. A sawzall would be my answer and then upgrade to 1/2" grade 8 hardware from the stock 12mm hardware.

I was wondering if that was going to be one of my only options. I usually always replace bolts/nuts when doing things like this. Good thing, the U/L control arms I bought come with them already. I am just afraid of cutting the head off and not being able to get the stud out still, but chances of hitting it loose would be greater.

Any easy way of doing this as well? From what I read, all I had to do was disconnect the sway bar, mark the spring, and disconnect the lower control arm and the spring will just fall. With previous experiences, shocks have been a stopper of this happening on other cars. Not the same with the Fox's rear set up?
 
If you disconnect the shock on the side you want to remove the spring from, the rear will move down enough for the spring to fall out.
 
There is one dowel pin. I misplaced the new ones I got with the kit, which frustrated me, and after I put the car together, I found them on a table towards my bathroom. I guess I set them down when I went to use it lol. My old flywheel had one it in, so I punched it out and put it in my new one.
hey you made the effort ! I forgot to order mine and i ended up doing the same and Punching them all out and in the new one
 
It is my understanding the dowels are supposed to take the majority of the stress and the bolts simply keep the pressure plate in place.


I would put in all 3 , am I missing the motor plate?
 
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With the lower control arm bolts, cutting them off may be the only answer. I did poly leaf spring bushings on my 96 F350 last summer, half of the bolts were seized in the spring bushings. I tried everything...ended up cutting off and replacing with new bolts.
 
I'm getting ready to install a new clutch kit/flywheel/rear main/pilot bearing/TOB as well in the next month or so. Thanks for the tips reagrding the rear main; I've been curious how I was going to do it, and this helps.
 
I'm getting ready to install a new clutch kit/flywheel/rear main/pilot bearing/TOB as well in the next month or so. Thanks for the tips reagrding the rear main; I've been curious how I was going to do it, and this helps.

The screw in the rear main doesn't work. I tried and I tried and I tried.

Doing it this way, took 5 minutes, if that. Just be VERY careful you don't slip and nic the crank or anything around it for that matter. Make sure everything is smooth, no notches before placing the new one in and use White Lithium Grease. Inexpensive and makes job much easier. Have any questions, just ask :)