Rear Seat Delete: Teh Write-up

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by RedDaemon, Jun 22, 2006.

  1. How to make a Rear Seat Delete
    By: RedDaemon

    What you need:
    1. 3...yes three 2x4 1/2 inch thick pieces of MDF
    2. 80 Grit Sandpaper
    3. 2 Heavy-duty hinges (from the cabinet isle...plan to install them reversed to hide them)
    4. Clear primer/sealant for the MDF...the thing about cutting MDF that most people arent aware of is that by cutting it u are exposing untreated wood...being that this wood is gunna be in ur car it will collect moisture..once this happens it starts to release fa-mal-da-hyde (sp?)...since its in a small enclosure (a car) its not good stuff to breathe in
    5. 4 large home depot cardboard boxes to use as templates
    6. 2 5" Bolts
    7. 4 Nuts
    8. 2 Locking Washers and 2 Regular Washers
    9. Mechanics Wire
    10. 3/16" Wooden Dowel
    11. 10 1/2" Wood Screws
    12. Carpeting (I got mine at BestBuy. Ask the dudes in the car audio section for the carpeting, THEY'RE STASHING IT!)

    First off in order to do this project, you need to take out your rear seat. Information on this can be had i believe in the bullitt archive, it is also in your handy Haynes.

    After you have sucessfully ripped the useless rear seats out, you are ready to begin.

    The first step of this project is one of the longest and most grueling part of this whole thing. You are ready to begin to trace your templates! The way I did this was to cut the folding tabs off of the large cardboard boxes for you have and easier time working with cardboard instead of trying to cut a huge piece to fit. These I will call the "Small templates" These small templates are only for the arm rest or side areas. THERE IS NO NEED TO TRACE STRAIGHT LINES! Here Is what I am referring to:


    The way I accomplished making these templates is by using the mechanics wire, molding it to the interior trim as shown below:


    Once I did this I then copied the form onto the cardboard with a pencil. After I traced it I then cut it out with scissors/razor. Once I finished that I put it in the car for fitment. If it didn't fit properly I would do the same thing again or adjust the form with my eyes by making pencil marks on the cardboard THEN tracing the updated form onto a new piece of cardboard, alternating back and fourth between the two pieces.

    Eventually, I was satisfied with what I had and took proper measurements of the straight lines and then took the small templates to make the "Large template" which is the actual size piece that you will fit into your car, like so:


    If your template is to your standards, trace it on to your MDF.
    NOTE!!! The 2x4 piece of MDF is NOT long enough for the BENCH portion. Unfortunately it is two inches too short. The way to fix this is to take the third piece of MDF and cut off 4 inches of it and attach it to the other board. How I did this was I drilled three matching holes into the sides of both pieces. The side being the edge or thickness of the board. I then took the 3/16" dowel and cut it into 3 much smaller pieces. I filled the holes with wood glue and put the dowels into the holes and merged the two pieces together.

    After you have made this quick fix for the bench, trace your large bench template onto the longer MDF. Then cut it out! Bring it into the car and see if it fits. If it does, spray it with the sealant and set it aside.


    Repeat this same process (minus the extension part) to the back panel portion. This took me a little more time. Just have patience!

    Once you have both pieces of MDF cut out AND sealed, you're now ready to install the hinges.

    If you plan on installing subs in your RSD, now is the time for you to make the proper measurements and cuts in the wood for them. (TIP: I traced the circles and drilled a hole in the wood as a starter for my jig saw blade)

    If you are infact cutting holes for subs, make sure to seal the newly exposed wood.

    At this point you should install the RSD as it is now back into your car to see how it looks AND to mark off where you need to drill holes for securing the back to the car.

    Next, take the panels out of your car and drill the proper holes for the bolts. Note: These holes will have to be drilled on a slight angle depending on how your back board is situated in the car. They should be drilled roughly here:


    After you have drilled the holes place the bolts through the board with the head of the bolt on the front side of the panel. The bolts will be covered up by the carpeting (If done my way)

    Next, carpet! Carpet or apulster your RSD however you would like. I chose sub box carpeting and used a staple gun to attach it to the wood. It may not be what you're looking for but it does the job with out a sticky mess.

    When done carpeting, place a nut on each bolt and run them all the way down. These will make for the stopping places of the back board when secured to the car.

    Once you have mounted the RSD into the car, feed the bolts through the two holes (I will show you in two seconds). Now take your regular washers and locking washers and put them onto the bolts with the last two nuts. Tighten the nuts down and you have secured your back panel.

    It should look something like this:


    If you have subs, now is the best time to install them after you're finished with the RSD because you can reach into the back to tighten the nuts down via the sub holes. If you don't have sub holes then you are gunna have to climb into ur trunk to tighten everything down.

    Final Note: If you can take out your rear seatbelts, PLEASE DO. They dont serve any purpose anymore and it makes it look a lot better.

    After a few days, a few beers, swear words and some nicks on the knuckles, you just might have something looking like this

    If you guys have any questions or need some pictures of something just ask me and ill run out and take them!

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  2. wow.. sounds like a pita :D
  3. Just two bolts at the top corners? Did you use anything to fasten the bottom?
  4. Nice Writeup :nice:
  5. As of yet, no. I have yet to take the car out to see how it holds up. However the bottom is attached by hinges to the back panel

    If you notice those two bolts are pretty fricken big. I will find out how it holds up today
  6. Ill be honest with you. It was lol. However it should be easier for other people now that there is a writeup :nice:
  7. very similer to mine, but i have my amp mounted low and 2 6x9s in the board and sub in the trunk... if i were you i'd glass the back to make a trunk wall.

    i dont want to intrude on your thread, but since i have done this before i'd like to add a few options to people.

    for securing the bottom portion i used a 1/8 drill bit to put down a pilot hole through the front of the board into the riser of the sheet metal (the area that the front of the rear seat pops into) and put three screws in there, center, and 1/3 from each side. has never moved. a bolt would be ideal, however there really is not that much pressure pushing on it, so the screws are just fine.

    I really like the idea of the hinges, i dont have them, might redo mine to have that. i kept the two pieces seperate and used the back board to go deeper into the seat well, and had the bottom piece push against it. makes it harder to remove, but i think that transition area looks a lil nicer.

    also, i removed my back molding that was on top of the seat backs... might have to cut down my bottom plate and space it out more like you did and get that piece in.

    glad i am not the only one that has done this themselves.

    on a side note you can save weight by using 1/2" MDF. plenty firm for that application and even with speaker mounting, however i do agree with the 3/4, if not 1" for Nighthawks application of holding subs.

    Very nice writeup.

  8. nice options :nice:

    however I am using 1/2" MDF. Its holding my subs quite nicely

    the reason why i didnt secure the bottom portion is because i didnt want to make any new holes in my car. however im sure you can actually reuse the bolt holes for the two clips for the bench portion of the rear seat on the riser part.
  9. thats just begging to be stolen and trust me it will! Don't be surprised when you come out and your window is smashed one morning.
  10. I hate the carpet... you should've gone with black leather, or atleast smoother/better looking black carpet... that's the **** that matches your trunk, not a classy interior....

    you just have those subs free-air right? how does that sound
  11. Where does one buy black leather that you can staple to a board?
  12. fabric store...craft place.
  13. :Word: , is it expensive?
  14. depends on the quality
  15. For right now, the carpet is fine. Its not like i glued it on so it can be taken off easially. But for now i am satisfied with it

    as far as the free air. it sounds better than the q-logic sub box i had in my trunk.
  16. I have some ideas

    i also dont live in a city. i live in a secluded area on a coul de sac that no one ever comes down lol
  17. I have pre-cut MDF I bought from someone who makes RSDs. $35 was a steal considering I don't have to measure/cut/test fit.

    As far as mounting the bottom piece, I was considering using some heavy duty Velcro. Do you guys think there's enough mating surfaces for Velcro to hold?

    Also, I was considering using some high quality textured wallpaper instead of some cloth/carpet material. Has anyone tried that yet?
  18. the wallpaper will be fine, however i dont think it will 1 look that great, 2 hold up against anything you might put back there.

    velcro will hold fine, however, if you use the industrial stuff, USE IT SPARINGLY. i used to use it to hold down basslinks in peoples RSXs back when i was installing those for people, and a little but made it impossible to remove.

    as far as the outta site outta mind. what i'd do is make a second frame that sits around 1-2 inches forward of the subs, router 1/4" slits in it every 1/2" or so and then cover it with a speaker grill fabric. slide it on top of your current setup, remove when you know you are safe.. going on a trip? slide it on to ensure nobody sees what you have.

  19. There are hundreds of shades of wallpaper. Some are textured to look like leather. I think I'll go with those. It will keep the weight to a minimum too. As far as having too much Velcro, I don't think you can have too much. I prefer to have that thing as secure as possible. In the event of a collision, a sheet of MDF is the last thing I want loose in the passenger area. I was even thinking of quick release fasteners instead of bolts, just so I can pop it open and use it for storage.
  20. I made my delete kit out of chloroplast(plastic sign material) for the weight savings. I also removed all the seat belts and brackets. If you weight those 2 pieces of mdf versus what was in there,there's no weight difference,might even be a little heavier. So if the look is more important than the performance,1/2 to 3/4 mdf is great. I was able to drop just over 40 lbs total with my home made delete kit. Yes I can't put stuff on the lower portion but i can very easily lift it up and put stuff under that.