Fox Recommend me a clutch

91GTstroked

Active Member
Jun 14, 2007
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Hey guys,

I currently have a ford racing king cobra clutch. I'm not sure how long it's been in the car. I'd like something with a lighter clutch pedal. The car has a maximum motorsports quadrant, adjuster, and cable.

The tob is making noises once in awhile, but I haven't looked yet to see if the tob is adjusted right.

Mod:

My car is your basic HCI and stock t5 with a IRS and 3:55 gears.

Parts:
I plan on adding new,

Clutch
Flywheel
MM/Ford non adjustable cable
TOB/Pilot bearing
Retainer sleeve
Rear main seal
Pivot ball stud, and any other hardware that might need replacing, such as clutch fork.

I've been looking at Ram HDX kit, but not sure I'd use everything in the kit, like tob, pilot bearing, ect.

Opinions?
 
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08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
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Massachusetts
Hey guys,

I currently have a ford racing king cobra clutch. I'm not sure how long it's been in the car. I'd like something with a lighter clutch pedal. The car has a maximum motorsports quadrant, adjuster, and cable.

The tob is making noises once in awhile, but I haven't looked yet to see if the tob is adjusted right.

Mod:

My car is your basic HCI and stock t5 with a IRS and 3:55 gears.

Parts:
I plan on adding new,

Clutch
Flywheel
MM/Ford non adjustable cable
TOB/Pilot bearing
Retainer sleeve
Rear main seal
Pivot ball stud, and any other hardware that might need replacing, such as clutch fork.

I've been looking at Ram HDX kit, but not sure I'd use everything in the kit, like tob, pilot bearing, ect.

Opinions?
Hi,
Ram makes a solid clutch, but likely more pedal effort than you’re seeking, are you planning any further engine mod’s? If you want a no hassle install, buy new flywheel to crank & clutch bolts & flywheel with the clutch/pressure plate, in addition to your other parts which you’ll find where the links take you.
The lightest that would handle things as they are slightly above stock with good street manners would be a Ford Racing organic..


IMO, McLeod’s are top of the line clutches, a street level organic clutch & their lightened Steel flywheel will work the best with the info. you’d listed. They’re smooth & require less pedal effort, break it in right & you’ll be happy with it...


The Ram Clutch listed will require a tad more pedal effort, but also run’s very well on the street.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/ram-hdx-t5-t45-clutch.html

I suggest running a Ford OE Pilot & Throwout bearing, OE rear main seal. If you need a fork, Ball pivot, I’d also stick with Ford OE’s, most of which you’ll find below the retainer sleeve you’re seeking, here....
https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-t5-retainer-8393.html
You’ll have much less chance of an early failure and/or a chattery clutch post install if you run a new flywheel, once areas on the flywheel becomes blue, it’s work hardened.
A shop’s rotary fly-cutting doesn’t always remove the entire work hardened area(s), only leveled & cleaned up. A carbide or diamond mill will cut hard or soft steel like butter. Can only cut so deep, or out of spec’s & may become dangerous.
The flywheel’s expansion/contraction at different rates may cause problems.
To avoid that, it’s well worth the cost.
Good luck!
-John
 

Potomus Pete

Gretchen Whitmer is eating at me
Mar 7, 2019
1,604
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Sarasota Florida
I have a McLeod Street Level and its very good for abuse. Seems to burn good without any smell. Ive had it for two years and I ride it sometimes . A bad habit but I have a bad knee. Cost was just a couple hundred . I got cheap and bought a hundred dollar flywheel that I regret . Going to put my old Ford one back on.
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Mililani, Hawaii
This may sound crazy, but I run the stock O'reilly auto parts replacement clutch kit. I have had zero issues with it and the price is more than reasonable. Pedal is as light as stock...maybe lighter. My car is a street car, H/C/I and I don't really pound the car so that might be a factor as well.

Chris
 

08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
896
139
53
50
Massachusetts
I have a McLeod Street Level and its very good for abuse. Seems to burn good without any smell. Ive had it for two years and I ride it sometimes . A bad habit but I have a bad knee. Cost was just a couple hundred . I got cheap and bought a hundred dollar flywheel that I regret . Going to put my old Ford one back on.
Hi Pete,
Hope you’re doing well, hope the same remains true for your family & friends..everyone else as well!
Car’s are funny, all seem to have their own personalities & if you skimp on any part, they take it personally...
The below was the result of a 1st time builder who had his own not-too-bright answer of saving 20$ over (6) ARP bolts. Local HW store had Grade 3 tin plated pressure plate to flywheel bolts & the result. Wrecked part of it, didnt get past the Bell (sheer luck) no pun intended...
3922A8AC-E438-4377-B06C-7B65A69C4EEB.jpeg

Luckily he still wears 2 shoes!

x2 on the Ram Powergrip clutch, worked well.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
15 Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
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There are very few clutches that have less pedal effort than a King Cobra. It's one of the best balanced street clutches out there. I don't think you are going to be better off with a McLead, Ram, or Spec. I can tell you that old clutches, and old clutch cables get hard. If that clutch is holding the power fine, and meets your needs, then you would be worse off going to a different brand. Try putting a new cable in first. If that doesn't make it easier, then put a new King Cobra clutch in. That's coming from someone that used to be a SPEC dealer.

Kurt
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
15 Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
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A few other suggestions. Skip the MM non adjustable cable. I've bought one, and it was the wrong length. I have tried just about every cable there is, and the best one I have found is the BBK. It's like $20 more than the competition, but it's adjustable, and has the shortest bracket to provide the most header clearance. Never run the throwout bearing that comes with a clutch. They are almost guaranteed to be Chinese. Go to the parts store, and get a quality one. Look for a Bower/BCA, National, SKS, or NTN. Something that is made in Mexico, Japan, or Sweden. It's going to run you about $29-$35, but it's worth it. Almost no one keeps quality parts in stock, you can expect to have to wait 2 days for them to get one for you. The pivot ball stud isn't much of a wear item. If the one that is in there looks smooth, grease it up and send it. I frequently have to change pivot ball studs in our BMW cars, I never have to change them in Mustangs. The clutch fork won't need replacing. Advance Auto rents a pilot bearing removal tool for free. Get a quality brand name pilot bearing as well.

Kurt
 
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nickyb

WAIT,you now have a pair?
10 Year Member
Apr 3, 2009
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Replaced my flywheel,clutch,tob,and pilot bearing 12 years ago(107,000miles ago) I used a perfection flywheel,and there clutch kit (by the way is a zoom clutch) Never Ever Any problems.light pedal feel and dumping the clutch is a pleasure.That's my recommendation. it's available on rock auto and way less then Summitt or elsewhere.
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Do a hydraulic clutch retrofit and use as hard a clutch as you'd like.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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Long Island, NY
Nothing crazy here for my stock ride. Went with all brand new Luk flywheel, Valeo clutch, pressure plate, TOB, pilot bearing, and all new hardware. Flywheel came from NAPA and everything else Rock Auto.
I believe Valeo makes clutches for many other “name brand”.
Pedal feel is easy and smooth!
7959CCA7-787D-49F4-BF89-211B6C1ECDCE.png
69568F70-0559-403F-BC29-197B263808E3.png
 

Willybill32

Active Member
Jul 16, 2019
200
87
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Lexington, KY
Hey guys,

I currently have a ford racing king cobra clutch. I'm not sure how long it's been in the car. I'd like something with a lighter clutch pedal. The car has a maximum motorsports quadrant, adjuster, and cable.

The tob is making noises once in awhile, but I haven't looked yet to see if the tob is adjusted right.

Mod:

My car is your basic HCI and stock t5 with a IRS and 3:55 gears.

Parts:
I plan on adding new,

Clutch
Flywheel
MM/Ford non adjustable cable
TOB/Pilot bearing
Retainer sleeve
Rear main seal
Pivot ball stud, and any other hardware that might need replacing, such as clutch fork.

I've been looking at Ram HDX kit, but not sure I'd use everything in the kit, like tob, pilot bearing, ect.

Opinions?

FWIW, when new, I had problems with the stock clutch in my '86 GT. I wound up replacing the stocker with a CenterForce clutch, which I loved. It was still working fine at 98K when the engine was pulled, and I decided to go ahead and buy a new one as part of the rebuild/upgrade. It works fine.
 

91GTstroked

Active Member
Jun 14, 2007
234
66
38
FWIW, when new, I had problems with the stock clutch in my '86 GT. I wound up replacing the stocker with a CenterForce clutch, which I loved. It was still working fine at 98K when the engine was pulled, and I decided to go ahead and buy a new one as part of the rebuild/upgrade. It works fine.
Which centerforce kit?
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
15 Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
8,650
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Acworth, GA
Do a hydraulic clutch retrofit and use as hard a clutch as you'd like.

I just saw someone on this forum that reviewed one of those kits a few months or a year after he bought it, and said it wasn't worth the money, and didn't help much. You can get a twin disk, but damn, they are $700.

Kurt
 

Willybill32

Active Member
Jul 16, 2019
200
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Lexington, KY
I just saw someone on this forum that reviewed one of those kits a few months or a year after he bought it, and said it wasn't worth the money, and didn't help much. You can get a twin disk, but damn, they are $700.

Kurt

How you drive has a big impact on how the clutch holds up. Mine had 98,000 miles and still worked good before I replaced it as part of an engine rebuild. Searching for Centerforce on the forum seems to be generally positive comments. I don't drive mine hard. Your mileage may vary.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
15 Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
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How you drive has a big impact on how the clutch holds up. Mine had 98,000 miles and still worked good before I replaced it as part of an engine rebuild. Searching for Centerforce on the forum seems to be generally positive comments. I don't drive mine hard. Your mileage may vary.

I'll have to find the link. The OP was older, and bought the kit to reduce pedal effort. He said it did little to reduce pedal effort, and did not recommend the kit. My Centerforce went out the side of the bell housing in a cloud of dust on the second pass. I loved my Centerforce in my MR2, but it did not hold up to V8 torque at all. I called them up, and they were complete assholes. Blamed it on the way I drove the car, and refused to even consider rebuilding the clutch. They told me they had 9 second cars running the same clutch. I put a SPEC in the car, and never looked back. I am on my 3rd SPEC clutch now. So far they have been very reasonable people to deal with. Customer service makes all the difference.

Kurt
 
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
15 Year Member
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Here it is.


Kurt
 
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08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
896
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Massachusetts
That’s a very useful bit of info, Kurt. I have a Twin disc McLeod 1,200Ft/LB in my GT500 & the pedal effort is..well...a 5yr old could cycle it with the hydraulic TOB.
Retro hydraulic kit would be useful for many. We’re not getting any younger.