Repair help for tomorrow (Heater core and wireing gremlins)

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by Swede958, Nov 1, 2003.

  1. Repair help for tomorrow (Heater core and wiring gremlins)

    Hey everyone, finally have a weekend off to do some work on the stang. I was first planning on putting in my new heater core and blower motor. I have a '70 w/AC, does anyone have any advice for doing this. i know that I pretty much have to rip the dash apart. I'm assuming the pad has to come off and the dash has to be loosened to pull away a little. What else is involved.

    Also, my turn signals have just started doing a very fast blinking. Like they are on speed or something. Also, the lights are very dim when they blink? What could cause this? I haven't noticed a bulb out and it does it for either side. Anyone know what I should be looking for?

    Thanks to all for any help,
    The Swede
  2. 1. heater core - I would jsut pull the whole blower motor / heater core assembly. There are 6 bolts (I believe) inside teh engine bay that hold the assembly to the fire wall...then 2-3 more holding them on the inside... unbolt them all (dashpad needs to come off, dash atleast loosened if not fully taken off) and then just pop off all the clips.

    2. quick flashing blinkers usually means you are low on blinker fluid... ok haha I thought it was funny :rlaugh: it usually works on a girl... anyways, when a blinker flashes fast, taht usually indicates that the bulb is about to go out or is out. I would just buy a new set of front and back bulbs for the side that is flashing fast. That should solve the problem.
  3. isn't it helpful, maybe not necessary, to take the glove box out?
  4. A/c: "Timeless Wisdom "#7 was never more appropriate. You may have to have your A/C "evacuated", I dunno. :shrug: RTFM.

    Light problem: Such a condition indicates a bad grond. Bulbs either work or they don't.
  5. Thanks for the help everyone, so far I have the dash pad off, I'm about to loosen the dash itself, but I think I found a big headache, if I am not mistaken, the PO may have superglued the case together!! :bang: :bang: :bang: :mad: :mad:
    Haven't tackled the wiring yet, it's a rats nest so far underneath the dash. I'm scared :)

    xoxobxfx: No, it couldn't be the blinker fluid, I flushed and refilled that already when I replaced my muffler bearing :D

    The Swede
  6. Yeah, I tried to replace the heater core on my '70 w/ac and when I found that the halves of the heater box were glued together with some substance that was stronger than the material the box is made of, I gave up. Anyone one else run into this? Solutions?
  7. I am going to try and either disolve it (carefully), or cut through it (carefully as well). I am not enjoying this at all, got all the bolts or nuts I could find holding the box up, but it still doesn't want to come out. I think it is caught on the heater core necks... so I have to take the dash either out or loosen it more... again, not enjoying this.

    The Swede
  8. Blinker fluid? I missed that the first time through. VERY GOOD! :lol: :lol: :lol:

    Never seen a heater box glued together. :bang: :bang: :bang:
  9. Ok, I've disconnected everything that I can think of besides the little vaccuum canister things, do these need to be disconnected before the box comes out? I can't pull the driver side dash out b/c the nut on the bottom as broken loose and is free wheeling. If I can get the cluster out, I may be able to get to it, how do I disconnect the speedo cable to pull th cluster out?

    Thanks again everyone.
    The Swede

    SD: that sounds like sarcasm from experience...
  10. Can't say for sure. Did you RTFM? (Timeless Wisdom #7)
  11. I got the cable out, yes SD, I read the manual, but unfortunately I do not have a Ford one (hopefully one day). I RTDEFBRM (Read The Does Enough For Basic Repairs Manual). Now I need to find out how to pull out the lower dash because the heater box still won't come out... I'm about ready to give up, though I know that I won't... at least not untill the car is either burning or the heater box is out.

    The Swede
  12. Swede: For what it will cost you to HAVE it done, you could easily BUY the manual, RTFM and then fix it yourself. I'm not familiar with that year so can't advise you. If you want a CHALLENGE next, try a core on an A/C Fox body or a Taurus/Sable.!
  13. Yeah, you are probably right Sd, I'm gonna start looking for the manuals tonight. I've got most of the dash apart, just something still caught on the driver side that is preventing the lower dash from coming out... does ANYBODY know how that piece is supposed to come out?

    THe Swede
  14. Ok, this is where I'm at right now. My car will probably be like this for a little bit since it's the work week and I'm getting hours now. I just can't seem to get the lower dash out to remove the box.... it's very frustrating.
    And are these the correct type of FORD manuals as per Timeless Wisdom #7?

    Thanks again everyone.
    The Swede
  15. You might want to look in the engine bay... on the firewall just behind the center of the engine. There may be another bolt securing the left side of the heater box to the firewall. Hard to tell from the picture.
  16. holy freakin mackeral dude, i never had to take that much apart when replacing the core. i just dropped it out from underneath...
  17. Ensure your heater cables are disconnected...looks like they are still attached fom the picture.
  18. Yep those are the right manuals.

    :( But if you want to take the dash out, The center console has to be out to get at the center dash brace.
    Speedo cabble comes loose by squeezing the outer ring and pull toward the firewall.
    To remove the lower dah you have to eather unplug your lights and wiper, ect switches or remove the knobs and bezels to drop them out.

    There is 2 bolts on the left and right side of the dash, a center brace near the radio and the steering col has to be dropped down by removing the bracket underneath.

  19. Yeah charlies, it would be my car that doesn't want to work like everyone else's. I really hate trying to do this. Was yours A/C equipped and everything?

    Thanks Pabear, I didn't know about the console. I'm going to try and have some mechanic friends at work take a look at it and all, see if I can get thier input.

    Thanks again all,
    The Swede
  20. On the model years I've done there is a single screw located near/above the glove box that holds the front side of the heater box in position. Make sure you've removed it. On the firewall side there's four nuts to remove. Remove any connecting ducts. Remove vaccuum lines to vaccuum servo motors. Remove unit far enough to reach into and behind unit. Disconnect hoses at engine, drain then remove hoses at heater box. Note: place towel or pad or catch pan under heater box to catch excess fluids that inherently drip from hose nipples on heater unit. Tilt out and remove to bench for further repairs. Box halves should not be glued together but I can well imagine someone doing this after breaking clips off the box instead of carefully removing them.