Progress Thread Rust-Oleum rocksolid is down and me likes!

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deathb4dismount

Crap, didn’t realize my crotch was in that picture
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Yah, you have a full HCI car right? You are already at the limit the T5 can handle. Throw in a clutch that grabs and goodnight T5. I would look for something in the "Stage 1" range. Ram HDX or Mcleod Street level. I've been eyeing this one recently,
https://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-street-muscle-86mid-01-gt-93-98-cobra.html but literally don't know anyone who runs it or have seen any useful reviews.

If you are going to add the PD blower or bigger block soon then I would think about a new trans entirely and then, yah sure, throw that clutch at it.
 

BlakeusMaximus

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So been chatting with this guy in regards to his KB flowzilla kit which if he gets a fab’d a2a one he will relinquish his to me. Probably won’t happen but he had this clutch and flywheel up for grabs. My old clutch is surely about 15 plus years old, has a new MM clutch cable, etc. never really banged on the gears as it pretty much sat in garages since 2003. He also has a new fly wheel. What do you guys think. Is this a good clutch?
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18175472-61ED-410A-BA7E-CF90F62D5562.png
Yeah it say that thing supports up to 650 horsepower. Made for track use. The street level clutch I have from Mcleod is an entry level, more OEM/factory type clutch. The guy I bought my car from had a Spec stage three clutch installed in my car and that's the first thing I ripped out of it along with the tired T5 it had and put a new Z trans it. It looks like that clutch you posted is a stage three type clutch. You'll hate it!! I thought that's the one I had, but I went back to my previous orders through LMR and I went with the Mcleod street level clutch kit posted above. I like it, just stiff enough. :rolleyes:
 
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Reddevil91

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Mar 3, 2010
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Yah, you have a full HCI car right? You are already at the limit the T5 can handle. Throw in a clutch that grabs and goodnight T5. I would look for something in the "Stage 1" range. Ram HDX or Mcleod Street level. I've been eyeing this one recently,
https://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-street-muscle-86mid-01-gt-93-98-cobra.html but literally don't know anyone who runs it or have seen any useful reviews.

If you are going to add the PD blower or bigger block soon then I would think about a new trans entirely and then, yah sure, throw that clutch at it.
Gotcha that makes sense
Yah, you have a full HCI car right? You are already at the limit the T5 can handle. Throw in a clutch that grabs and goodnight T5. I would look for something in the "Stage 1" range. Ram HDX or Mcleod Street level. I've been eyeing this one recently,
https://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-street-muscle-86mid-01-gt-93-98-cobra.html but literally don't know anyone who runs it or have seen any useful reviews.

If you are going to add the PD blower or bigger block soon then I would think about a new trans entirely and then, yah sure, throw that clutch at it.
I do have h/c/i yes and your probably right think my trans is only rated at 350 which I’m pushing 328hp 358tq so I know I’m there but I don’t drive aggressive. I do want a blower bc the itch is real strong right now and just want to push this stock block fornwhat it’s worth. I’ve contemplated some new transmissions bc I’ve seen some 3550s and tko500s for good deals but not sure if it’s worth it to invest into older transmissions and fix them up vs buying a new tko600. I’m also considering this dart block I’ve found from a guy not to far from me since I’ve wanted to do a stroker motor. I don’t think anything is really wrong with my clutch besides it’s just really old. Idk what it is either to be honest I want to say it’s an old center force.
 

Reddevil91

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Yeah it say that thing supports up to 650 horsepower. Made for track use. The street level clutch I have from Mcleod is an entry level, more OEM/factory type clutch. The guy I bought my car from had a Spec stage three clutch installed in my car and that's the first thing I ripped out of it. It looks like that clutch you posted is a stage three type clutch. You'll hate it!! I thought that's the one I had, but I went back to my previous orders through LMR and I went with the Mcleod street level clutch kit posted above. I like it, just stiff enough. :rolleyes:
Yeah this one is pretty aggressive plus the balancer was a 28oz. This guy was someone who had another KB blowzilla I was looking previously and sold it and I contacted him to see what he sold to this guy who also had the flowzilla inlet. Anyways he has a 331 and a sick flowzilla kit on it and just contacted me about wanted to possibly unload the flowzilla to me if he bought the other a2a kB setup. So he obviously had a little better set up than I did. Oh well I’ll just wait then
 

deathb4dismount

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The true mileage on my T5 is unknown, but probably closer to the 200k mark. It still shifts well and doesn't grind but it started whining at the end of last season. I can never find any better (3550, tko) used transmissions in my area unfortunately. The closest thing was a T5 with a liberty gear set, but it was a dog box or pro shift, which, to my understanding, you cannot drive normally with. Astro now requires your core for an A5. After freight costs it seems it would cost the same as a new TKO 600. I've been tossing around the idea of either a new Z spec or ditching the stick for a 4r70w. I can find them for peanuts around here and it would be cheaper than a new trans, clutch, and everything that comes with it.
 

Reddevil91

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The true mileage on my T5 is unknown, but probably closer to the 200k mark. It still shifts well and doesn't grind but it started whining at the end of last season. I can never find any better (3550, tko) used transmissions in my area unfortunately. The closest thing was a T5 with a liberty gear set, but it was a dog box or pro shift, which, to my understanding, you cannot drive normally with. Astro now requires your core for an A5. After freight costs it seems it would cost the same as a new TKO 600. I've been tossing around the idea of either a new Z spec or ditching the stick for a 4r70w. I can find them for peanuts around here and it would be cheaper than a new trans, clutch, and everything that comes with it.
What is considered peanuts? I know of about 2 - 3550s and one tko 500 for sale. They all want about 1000-1300 for them and idk if that’s a good deal or over priced.
 

deathb4dismount

Crap, didn’t realize my crotch was in that picture
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What is considered peanuts? I know of about 2 - 3550s and one tko 500 for sale. They all want about 1000-1300 for them and idk if that’s a good deal or over priced.
I meant for the 4r70ws, between $200-400. The better 5speeds almost never come up around here. When they do they are right around the $2k mark. I would say anything under $1800.00 would be a good deal as long as it's in good working order.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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Personally, I don’t know why anybody prefers to have to lift to go through the process of going through a gear change. The 4R70w that I built is fully manual, and has the equivalent of 5 gears if you consider the RPM reduction that occurs when you lock up the converter. A 4R70 has been proven to be pretty power capable if prepped correctly, and for a measly 200 bucks can be made to work w/o any additional tcu.

You just gotta move the lever, and push the buttons.

its much the same way like a manual trans....You push the “button” next to the brake so you can pull or push the lever to make the box work...but if you don’t push the lever into the right slot after you pushed the button next to the brake.....
Bad things happen.

You can forget to take the converter out of lock up, or forget to take the trans out of 4th gear,..and bad things are supposed to happen with the auto trans too...but even as forgetful as I am, and have been with this trans...I have yet to experience any bad things.
 
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a91what

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Personally, I don’t know why anybody prefers to have to lift to go through the process of going through a gear change. The 4R70w that I built is fully manual, and has the equivalent of 5 gears if you consider the RPM reduction that occurs when you lock up the converter. A 4R70 has been proven to be pretty power capable if prepped correctly, and for a measly 200 bucks can be made to work w/o any additional tcu.

You just gotta move the lever, and push the buttons.

its much the same way like a manual trans....You push the “button” next to the brake so you can pull or push the lever to make the box work...but if you don’t push the lever into the right slot after you pushed the button next to the brake.....
Bad things happen.

You can forget to take the converter out of lock up, or forget to take the trans out of 4th gear,..and bad things are supposed to happen with the auto trans too...but even as forgetful as I am, and have been with this trans...I have yet to experience any bad things.
your MS3 has a simple converter lockup control built into the code... FYI
 

Reddevil91

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So I was bored the other night and got to work. I ordered this Scott rod panel after I even said nah I don’t like it. My buddy put a black one his red cobra clone and it just looked miss placed but I kinda liked it. So I went for one, was worried about my cervinis hood and Scott rod stating they made another option for such style of hoods. It is tight and I have to slam it down a little but it closes just fine. I ended up doing it how I thought in my mind it would look good and had it powder coated to match so it blends. I also decided to de-badge. Not sure if I’ll leave it, gonwith new s550 black 5.0, or possibly put on black cobras. I know I’m not a cobra but I just love those little snakes! Also debating on the cobra insert vs the cervinis stalker front bumper and cobra side skirts. Also popped these gauges in which yes I was worried about wiring myself but found the constant power, switched, and head lamp. I know I know wow easy 4 wire hook up but it was a task I was worried about lol but pulled out the test light and got it done. Pressure gauge/ afr/ boost!! Wait I don’t got no boost but hopefully soon. I actually think they don’t look bad once I set them to white, from the cockpit they look pretty good all together. I’m in the works of getting new custom wheel caps, ford ovals, and a replacement sticker for the Scott rod sticker.
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00FCE5F5-FC06-4BE0-9E8E-16AF3BAB81B8.jpeg
 
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Reddevil91

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Also real bummed but happy for the guy. I had talked about another KB set up previously which was a blowzilla and the guy had a dynotech flowzilla inlet. Well that went silent. So the previous owner of said unit sold that one to pick up a flowzilla unit. I had contacted him to see what he sold the blowzilla off for to see if the guy was trying to over charge me. Anyways we kinda kept in contact, he hit me up with an offer that he was eyeing an A2A KB set up and he would sell me his flowzilla. I was super excited! He just hit me up the other night saying he was selling the car to pick up a new beast which for me means no KB but a sweet pick up for the guy.
 

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Noobz347

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So been chatting with this guy in regards to his KB flowzilla kit which if he gets a fab’d a2a one he will relinquish his to me. Probably won’t happen but he had this clutch and flywheel up for grabs. My old clutch is surely about 15 plus years old, has a new MM clutch cable, etc. never really banged on the gears as it pretty much sat in garages since 2003. He also has a new fly wheel. What do you guys think. Is this a good clutch?
5F3BCC89-84A6-4655-B99F-7A3BDC9D5ECC.png
18175472-61ED-410A-BA7E-CF90F62D5562.png
This is the same flywheel I ended up with on my KB setup. I tried others beginning with OEM, then aluminum, and finally the billet steel. Not having done the others with that same kind of setup, you may never fully appreciate how well that flywheel works with a PD setup.
 

deathb4dismount

Crap, didn’t realize my crotch was in that picture
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So I was bored the other night and got to work. I ordered this Scott rod panel after I even said nah I don’t like it. My buddy put a black one his red cobra clone and it just looked miss placed but I kinda liked it. So I went for one, was worried about my cervinis hood and Scott rod stating they made another option for such style of hoods. It is tight and I have to slam it down a little but it closes just fine. I ended up doing it how I thought in my mind it would look good and had it powder coated to match so it blends. I also decided to de-badge. Not sure if I’ll leave it, gonwith new s550 black 5.0, or possibly put on black cobras. I know I’m not a cobra but I just love those little snakes! Also debating on the cobra insert vs the cervinis stalker front bumper and cobra side skirts. Also popped these gauges in which yes I was worried about wiring myself but found the constant power, switched, and head lamp. I know I know wow easy 4 wire hook up but it was a task I was worried about lol but pulled out the test light and got it done. Pressure gauge/ afr/ boost!! Wait I don’t got no boost but hopefully soon. I actually think they don’t look bad once I set them to white, from the cockpit they look pretty good all together. I’m in the works of getting new custom wheel caps, ford ovals, and a replacement sticker for the Scott rod sticker.
6E5BDA47-93F0-4A10-8BDF-41E06799E2D8.jpeg
BDC82DB2-130A-40A5-B05B-04A328310162.jpeg
9155AEA5-2650-45EA-8AE7-ACE3E3DE7DAB.jpeg
5279B2F9-862D-47EA-9226-8D943233C113.jpeg
00FCE5F5-FC06-4BE0-9E8E-16AF3BAB81B8.jpeg
Just my opinion. You’re car looks awesome. I wouldn’t change a thing except maybe the cobra insert. I prefer the solid front bumper cover though. Leave the stalker front bumper back in 2002 where it benogs. It’s not a cobra, no cobra badge. It’s a pushrod 5.0, wear the correct badge with pride.
 

deathb4dismount

Crap, didn’t realize my crotch was in that picture
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Personally, I don’t know why anybody prefers to have to lift to go through the process of going through a gear change. The 4R70w that I built is fully manual, and has the equivalent of 5 gears if you consider the RPM reduction that occurs when you lock up the converter. A 4R70 has been proven to be pretty power capable if prepped correctly, and for a measly 200 bucks can be made to work w/o any additional tcu.

You just gotta move the lever, and push the buttons.

its much the same way like a manual trans....You push the “button” next to the brake so you can pull or push the lever to make the box work...but if you don’t push the lever into the right slot after you pushed the button next to the brake.....
Bad things happen.

You can forget to take the converter out of lock up, or forget to take the trans out of 4th gear,..and bad things are supposed to happen with the auto trans too...but even as forgetful as I am, and have been with this trans...I have yet to experience any bad things.
It’s just not the same feeling, Mike. There is no good reason for it other than that. It’s dumb, but it’s what keeps people driving a stick car.