Rustoleum Paint Job

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Thomas Fitzpatrick, Jan 5, 2014.

  1. ok first of all i've looked and could not find a thread on this so im making a new one. i have a 1988 gt that has different color body panels, faded paint and is just in general need of a paint job. it needs to be cheap which is why i am turning to rustoleum. i ve seen pictures and threads where it is prepared well and turns out very well. my question comes in when deciding whether or not to paint it with a sprayer or roll it on. i have read in detailed directions on doing both but would prefer to roll it on. can i use paint hardener when i roll it on? i would prefer to roll it on because from what i've seen it produces superior results. and paint hardener would just make it even more durable. thanks.
  2. ok i just found a thread on this site but it doesnt specify on whether paint hardener can be used with roll on applications so my question persists.
  3. I cant answer your question, but be sure to post pics after you do it. I dont think there is anything wrong with it, especially when the car is starting out multicolored.
  4. I've done several Krylon and Rustoleum paint jobs. As I'm currently using Rustoleum on my engine bay. Never tried rolling it on. Best of luck. Just remember prep, prep, & PREP! Scotchbrite pads, mineral spirits, and tack cloths are your friends.
    stangboy likes this.
  5. yeah when i do it i will definatley get pics up. but id just like to hear from someone on here about the hardener subject before i dive in to anything
  6. thanks i plan on doing ALOT of prep. i take it you sprayed it. did you use paint hardener? would you recommend rolling it on or spray? i want it as durable as possible. thanks
  7. rustoleum dries quick enough that you dont need a hardener. how ever if you feel that you need a paint that dries quicker, then i suggest using the duplicolor paint shop in a can system. it has no recoat window, but you do need a proper spray gun.
  8. i dont know if im wrong or if we're talking about the same paint but rustoleum enamel takes a pretty damn long time to cure on it's own when sprayed doesn't it? im not sure if its the same for roll on applications i would like it to dry quickly, but a hard, durable finish is the most important thing. and i "proper" spray gun is usually a "expensive" gun which is why i wish to go roll on
  9. thanks man thats alot of useful info
  10. Durability is going to be less to do with hardener and more about the prep work. Rustoleum dries quick about an hour, but depending on the color you use it takes 24/48 hours to cure hard, it will say on the can. Remember with enamel you only have an hour recoat window. Then you have to wait the full 24/48 hours to add more coats. If you use lacquer they have no window. Also you can paint enamel over lacquer, but cannot put lacquer over enamel. So make sure you pick the right primer (lacquer/enamel), if you're priming as well. I spray, never tired rolling it on...
  11. Lord have mercy!
    madspeed likes this.

    Look into Rustoleum Topside paint. There are less color options, but it's formulated for boats, and is more resistant to UV and weather than standard Rustoleum. Supposed to retain gloss better.

    I looked into doing this a few years ago and chickened out at the last minute. I still have the unopened paint cans haha.
    85rkyboby likes this.
  13. what is it brah?
  14. well damn. that's perfect haha thanks for the link.
  15. Well since you asked
    I've seen these threads before.
    I don't care what you've read on other sites. I wish I could give you a vote of confidence as others have in this thread but I can't.
    I'm gonna be honest.
    I've been painting cars for 35 years. Contrary to popular belief Rustoleum is not an automotive finish grade product. I use it alot myself. Its great for small engine parts, deck chairs, bbq grills, kids toys, industrial tools, ect, ect, ect.
    If you paint your Mustang with it:
    #1 It's gonna look like poop.
    #2 It's gonna take alot of product and multiple coats to achieve gloss and a "Decent" looking overall finish at best.
    #3 After applying massive amounts in hopes to achieve a decent appearance, Durability will be compromised!
    -Rustoleum gets softer and softer when multiple coats are applied and takes longer and longer to dry.
    -It may never totally dry.
    After a month or even two you will be able to use your finger nail and scratch the finish with little effort. If you should spill gas on it while fueling your car it will damage the sheen or cause it to craze and/wrinkle. On a hot sunny day you will be able to mash a thumb print in the hot finish.
    Bottom line its not up to the task and I hate to see anyone waste time, effort and money going down the wrong path.

    Trust me do yourself a favor, save your money and buy real automotive finishing materials or take it to a body shop and do it right.

    good luck
    #17 Onefine88, Jan 5, 2014
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2014
    f8tlfiveo likes this.
  16. really? then you think under $100 is expensive?,tools&rh=i:tools,k:paint guns
  17. I agree with everything @Onefine88 says. The thicker/more layers you do the worse it will get, it may never dry, and it will be shotty work at best. I agree with all that but I wouldn't try and stop you as I'm sure there's no changing your mind. So I give you my experience with it. This is coming from a body collision repair graduate. Just not as experienced as @Onefine88.