Sat+now Seized Engine, Advice
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Update:
I removed the heads.
There was a tiny amount of surface rust on some of the cylinder walls which was easily removed with steel wool and naval gel. The walls are as smooth as anything. no pitting or scratches.
I then used a heavy hammer and block of wood on all of the cylinders.
No movement.
I don't get it, if there was water damage causing this, shouldn't there be some sort of visible evidence?
I removed the heads.
There was a tiny amount of surface rust on some of the cylinder walls which was easily removed with steel wool and naval gel. The walls are as smooth as anything. no pitting or scratches.
I then used a heavy hammer and block of wood on all of the cylinders.
No movement.
I don't get it, if there was water damage causing this, shouldn't there be some sort of visible evidence?
What about the transmission? Is the car in gear? Something blocking the flywheel/flex plate from moving freely?
Just throwing stuff at the wall for ya....Could you snap a picture for us?
Just throwing stuff at the wall for ya....Could you snap a picture for us?
- Dec 19, 2010
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Moisture develops in the cylinders and rusts the rings to the cylinder. Makes them stuck like chuck.
Buddy of mine had an old chevy truck with a siezed engine and a standard trans. This guy- an ASE mechanic at the local chevy dealer, soaks the cylinders with trans fluid, pulls plugs and literally has me pull him down the road at 40 mph while he pops the clutch, lol. Needles to say, the motor broke loose. It smoked a little, but it ran. The chit this guy did..
Buddy of mine had an old chevy truck with a siezed engine and a standard trans. This guy- an ASE mechanic at the local chevy dealer, soaks the cylinders with trans fluid, pulls plugs and literally has me pull him down the road at 40 mph while he pops the clutch, lol. Needles to say, the motor broke loose. It smoked a little, but it ran. The chit this guy did..
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Since he has the heads off could he apply some heat to the piston tops to help break it loose? Something like a hi-temp heat gun or a torch?
It is in neutral and I pushed it up the slightly inclined driveway without a problem but I am curious if its possible the flywheel has an issue.. Maybe it could have been making contact and rusted to something.. Man that would be nice.. sort of.
I guess I can keep working on them... keep spraying them down.. Getting discouraged... Not a lot of cheap options on craigslist, most everything on there has been pulled and can't be tested.
How concerned should I be about putting a lot of torque on the breaker bad on the crank... I haven't tried extending my leverage beyond the 2 foot? bar yet.
I guess I can keep working on them... keep spraying them down.. Getting discouraged... Not a lot of cheap options on craigslist, most everything on there has been pulled and can't be tested.
How concerned should I be about putting a lot of torque on the breaker bad on the crank... I haven't tried extending my leverage beyond the 2 foot? bar yet.
Motors can be leak down tested without power or fuel just carry an air tank and tools, this allows you to spin the motor manually by hand (with tools), oil inspected, and even pan removed for inspection. Buyers market when it comes to engines, some junkyards give warranties as well. Just make sure it gets installed and ran before that time frame.
Don't get discouraged,
Don't get discouraged,
is the Serpentine belt off while your turning? What direction are you going looking at the front of the engine CW or CCW..too clarify
You might try pulling the lifters up, maybe a spun cam bearing or stuck lifter? Maybe pull off the timing chain....but I would wait on this
You might try pulling the lifters up, maybe a spun cam bearing or stuck lifter? Maybe pull off the timing chain....but I would wait on this
Now I have to subscribe to fin out why this engine won't turn over.
When my car sat 7 years, all I did was pull the plugs, add some marvel mystery oil and turn it over by hand.
Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk
When my car sat 7 years, all I did was pull the plugs, add some marvel mystery oil and turn it over by hand.
Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk
IT MOVES!!!
AT LAST!!
THANK GOD ALMIGHTY IT MOVES AT LAST!
So I hit the
out of the pistons, added more pb buster, nothing.
Decided to hit the fly wheel a bit with the hammer, then went back to the pistons, nothing.
Finally, in a rage, I said
it I'm going back to the breaker bar with more leverage and either it's gonna move or break.
I used a big ass wrench because the pipes wouldn't fit over the handle.
It took a lot of muscle but it moved, and it moved some more.
Looking under the spot where the pistons were stuck is gunky rings but not really rust.
I am fairly confident that the flywheel is the issue at this point. Ever since I put the engine together it was hard to turn which had me suspicious about the flywheel from the beginning. I'm not sure why, perhaps I am missing something back there or did something wrong.
Moving forward: I will proceed to clean the cylinders and rotate+Lube and see if anything frees up. If not, I will have to remove the flywheel which sucks, but being as I was making calls on engines for an hour today, I'll take it.
It looks like FoxMustangLvr called it
It will take me some time, maybe a week before I can get all that done but I will update the thread as things proceed.
Thanks to everyone who helped and I'm glad the thread wasn't derailed by spell check trolls.
Now I may have to consider a small head upgrade while they're off
AT LAST!!
THANK GOD ALMIGHTY IT MOVES AT LAST!
So I hit the
out of the pistons, added more pb buster, nothing.Decided to hit the fly wheel a bit with the hammer, then went back to the pistons, nothing.
Finally, in a rage, I said
it I'm going back to the breaker bar with more leverage and either it's gonna move or break.I used a big ass wrench because the pipes wouldn't fit over the handle.
It took a lot of muscle but it moved, and it moved some more.
Looking under the spot where the pistons were stuck is gunky rings but not really rust.
I am fairly confident that the flywheel is the issue at this point. Ever since I put the engine together it was hard to turn which had me suspicious about the flywheel from the beginning. I'm not sure why, perhaps I am missing something back there or did something wrong.
Moving forward: I will proceed to clean the cylinders and rotate+Lube and see if anything frees up. If not, I will have to remove the flywheel which sucks, but being as I was making calls on engines for an hour today, I'll take it.
It looks like FoxMustangLvr called it
It will take me some time, maybe a week before I can get all that done but I will update the thread as things proceed.
Thanks to everyone who helped and I'm glad the thread wasn't derailed by spell check trolls.
Now I may have to consider a small head upgrade while they're off
IT MOVES!!!
AT LAST!!
THANK GOD ALMIGHTY IT MOVES AT LAST!
So I hit the **** out of the pistons, added more pb buster, nothing.
Decided to hit the fly wheel a bit with the hammer, then went back to the pistons, nothing.
Finally, in a rage, I said **** it I'm going back to the breaker bar with more leverage and either it's gonna move or break.
I used a big ass wrench because the pipes wouldn't fit over the handle.
It took a lot of muscle but it moved, and it moved some more.
Looking under the spot where the pistons were stuck is gunky rings but not really rust.
I am fairly confident that the flywheel is the issue at this point. Ever since I put the engine together it was hard to turn which had me suspicious about the flywheel from the beginning. I'm not sure why, perhaps I am missing something back there or did something wrong.
Moving forward: I will proceed to clean the cylinders and rotate+Lube and see if anything frees up. If not, I will have to remove the flywheel which sucks, but being as I was making calls on engines for an hour today, I'll take it.
It looks like FoxMustangLvr called it
It will take me some time, maybe a week before I can get all that done but I will update the thread as things proceed.
Thanks to everyone who helped and I'm glad the thread wasn't derailed by spell check trolls.
Now I may have to consider a small head upgrade while they're off
Quite the opposite actually,...The spell check troll kept it on track.
So you know it moves now. Everybody had to guess based on the info you gave. At the time you said nothing about it being hard to turn from the get go and that you assembled it. I naturally assumed that it was as Ford had built it before it sat and locked up.
The cylinders don't show any tell tale that you have a split, or a anything that would have caused the lock up. But you having to use a big assed bar to turn over a shortblock is still a bad thing. Is this an Auto trans car by any chance?
Flywheel shouldn't really be an issue though. Once you remove the starter, it's pretty much free to spin assuming something in the transmission isn't binding it up.
I assume this is a stick car right? Clutch in, there should be nothing really holding the flywheel. It's simply hanging onto the crank
Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk
I assume this is a stick car right? Clutch in, there should be nothing really holding the flywheel. It's simply hanging onto the crank
Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Can't tell if it's ridges or the way the oil looks in the pics. With the piston depressed I don't see it, when they are at tdc it looks like a ridge, but I think it's just penetrating fluid.
I don't see crosshatch though. I've torn apart numerous 302s and nearly all of them still had visible crosshatch pattern. Based on that alone I would be inspecting Cam and rod bearings.
Does not sound good. I can pull the plugs on my car right now and turn it over with a 1/2 drive ratchet. Do yourself a favor and hit a jy for a explorer short block.
