Paint and Body Scott Rod Fab Engine Panels

F2Falcon

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Mar 15, 2013
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I need some advice...I welded in the drivers side steel engine bay panels from Scott Rod Fabrications into my fathers mustang and I didn’t think it came out the best (I’m a beginner), so I recommended my dad hire an experienced welder to do the other side...MISTAKE! The guy he hired to weld in the panel is a friend of mine and he is a very talented welder, but he had his kid do the work to “learn” and gain some experience. He ended up burning holes in the panel and therefore added a “patch” to the shock tower. The shock tower side and panel now has a lot of wave. I am tempted to cut out the panel and the side of the shock tower and weld in a patch from another tower and install a new panel from Scott Rod Fab myself. The question I have is about the panel seams and this repair. I have read several debates on forums regarding metal type fillers (all metal, metal to metal, etc) versus duraglass type fillers. My fear is cracking and bubbling after painted (especially being in an engine bay). I am a bit of a perfectionist (it’s a curse!) and want to make sure this engine bay come out smooth with no waves, cracks, or bubbles. Any advice is welcomed. Pics to follow. Note this has sat for a while and just getting back to it, so there is some surface rust that will be removed.
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Before we get into fillers, what is the intended use of this vehicle?
Did these panels go on top of the existing panels? If so, what is your plan to prevent water retention and horrible rust issues? Did you fill the holes behind it first?
 
Before we get into fillers, what is the intended use of this vehicle?
Did these panels go on top of the existing panels? If so, what is your plan to prevent water retention and horrible rust issues? Did you fill the holes behind it first?
This car will be for street use, car shows, and some auto crossing. The sheet metal was not removed behind the panels, but they were coated prior to welding. However, I am planing on cutting out what I can of the existing factory panel on the drivers side with a small Dremel metal cut off wheel and will be totally removing the passenger side from the factory pinch welds before welding in a new panel.
 
If they are coated on the back (say with a weld through primer, And you are doing street driving, I would consider making sure there is a way for water to get out at the bottom and leave the panel on for strength. Most of our door panels seem to do well this way. You could probably spray in a rust protectant coating. I would be shocked if Eastman did not have a product with a flex tube for hard to reach places in restorations. And a couple of well placed drain holes could make splashed water not a problem.
 
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I hope the link below comes up to where @Davedacarpainter talks about this type of install and the materials he uses.
I was going to reccomend getting the good filler from a FLAPS and see he did. Foose seems to use the same stuff in and out of the engine compartment on Overhaulin’. Unless your headers are close enough to cook the paint, I do not see it affecting the polyester primer when cured either.
@CarMichael Angelo will be another good source with his project experiences.
 
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Use dolphin glaze it will make your life a lot easier ! That filler is nice and soft easy to work with
 

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