Those are for cars where torque box reinforcement was hindsight, and they are beat to snot. For a straight car, these work fine.
https://wildridesracecars.com/shop/ford/lower-battle-box-torque-box-reinforcement-kit/
Kurt
Progress Thread Seriously? Another Boosted Coyote Swap Build? - Still Slowly Moving Forward
- Thread starter Hoytster
- Start date
Those are for cars where torque box reinforcement was hindsight, and they are beat to snot. For a straight car, these work fine.
https://wildridesracecars.com/shop/ford/lower-battle-box-torque-box-reinforcement-kit/
Kurt
-
Sponsors (?)
Oh I agree with you Kurt, but.........those full boxes sure are nice........I'll probably still replace mine for no other reason than "cause"
.
I'm really starting to wonder about you Dave....Oh I agree with you Kurt, but.........those full boxes sure are nice........I'll probably still replace mine for no other reason than "cause"
Why not just put a narrowed Fab 9 under there and run 36" long ladder bars?
You can reinforce the existing torque boxes numerous ways for all but the most extreme of duties. Battle boxes, the UPR reinforcements, ( or any of a half dozen copies of that) or your own home made weld-n-plate will work for everything else.
Multi-mount point torque box replacements are for drag radial racers like @TOOLOW91, @84Ttop, @Bullitt347.
You know,..the "hobby" wherein you spend stupid amounts of money to make obscene horsepower,..spending all week long waiting on the weekend just so you can beat on the mega power car and see what breaks.
Or,..
See how hard you can ram the whole car into the center wall at the 60' mark when the "stage 2" boost solenoid opens, and holds the waste gate closed to allow the engine to see 35 psi.
Those are some serious torque boxes! I had just planned on plating the existing boxes out and then reinforcing the inside of the torque box to the floor plan. I would then plate the rear seat floor area where the reinforcement is, to the corner of the vehicle and to the subframe rear rail reinforcement. The latter is a lot like their battle box kit, just a little more integrated into the chassis.
https://wildridesracecars.com/shop/ford/lower-battle-box-torque-box-reinforcement-kit/
I have thrown around the idea of also running a bar from my main hoop to the area on the rear seat plate to further reinforce the area.
I had planned on going watts link/torque arm live axle so I didn't need the uppers, but now I'm really thinking of going IRS which might change what I do in the end. Decisions, decisions.
If you build the car the "right way" you don't have these problems. just finished the 3rd season on the car and have not broken a single thing. And this at the 1,200 HP level. Do a yearly oil change, adjust the valves at the beginning of every season, throw a half dozen sets of spark plugs at it every year, new slicks once a year and that is about the extent of it.
I'm assuming you're talked about their cold galvanized weld through? I've used that stuff in the past and it does work fine for me on sheet metal, I just don't like having to grind the area down to get a good weld with low splatter and proper penetration on thicker material. I've found some porosity in the weld from it and when I've tested my welds on thicker metal when using it (like DOM tubing on a cage that had to be certified), they didn't penetrate like they should have. I haven't found another "weld through" primer that performs any different. This bloxide stuff is supposed to improve weld quality since the aluminum helps to remove contaminants and it's suppose to do a real good job of protection. I should be welding some stuff with it tomorrow or Friday so I'll let you know how it works. I just found out they sell it in a gallon that you can brush on, which if this can performs well, I'll be getting.
I have a 110V flux core. When I am done welding it looks like a bird
on it no matter what I use.Kurt
Me too, used it twice, haven't touched it since. Made a lousy welder look even worse.I have a 110V flux core. When I am done welding it looks like a bird
Kurt
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,820
- 5,853
- 203
I learned that with my 110 flux core I had to almost put the tip on the metal to get normal looking welds. The gases that escape from burning flux protect the weld. Works OK now...but not as good as my gas welder.
Convert it to gas!! Fortunately my Lincoln 140 flux welder already had the solenoid valve in it to convert it to gas. I changed the wire and the polarity, added the tank along with the gauges and now my welds look pretty decent.I have a 110V flux core. When I am done welding it looks like a bird
Kurt
I'm just messing around. I can convert it to gas, but I have yet to have a reason to. Just preheat a little bit with a torch, and it actually lays down some pretty decent nickel stacks. I have good penetration, but the 110V has a very short duty cycle, so you have to learn to be patient.
Kurt
Yes but... Your build doesn't involve a power plant that runs on motor oil and protoculture from the land down under using a reverse pitch dark Australian gem stone found only the mouths of active volcanoes.
It used to be..Back in the 90's I drove the car through the gate...picked on Chevy boy's, ran 11oh's, and drove it back out the gate at the end of the night. For me, all it took to do that was a JY 460, a C-4, and a buttload of nitrous. It was all cheap fun.
Then street cars started running 10, 9 and even faster 8 second et's. It took way more money, and you broke more sht just to play in the sand box. And HU classes started to appear.
The 393 powered jap car in my sig went 8.80's. it was the slowest car in the field in 2003, I broke the 351 block trying to lean the thing out for more power...( pic is of me discovering aluminum all over my plugs)
THAT was NOT fun.
Because I never learn the first time, in '06 I backed that car up with the meth fueled orange/black 86 w/95mm 363.
Car ran 5.20's/8.10's, and was still the slowest car in the NEW field. ( rule change over winter when I was building allowed 600+" and only penalized 200 lbs extra weight) Because of meth fuel, had to wear -20. ( like snowmobile suit)b
Track temps 140+......Meth tuning learning curve resulted in two sets of trashed TFS R heads..and even when everything was working, the cars going like 160 mph.....
(This is after Melted head #2)
Nope....for me... Fun is the current car..Running on "proto culture, and motor oil".
Last edited:
26 X 8.5 guys are running 4.6-4.7 at over 150 mph in the 1/8 now. It is getting ridiculous ...lol Try keeping up with that sh*t! Then there is the 10.5 crowd. Try low 4.0's and 3.9xx in the 1/8. It is stupid money to get there.
Last edited:
I remember the 90s. I was in highschool, and I showed up with my daily driver in EFI Renegade and made it to the second round. Nothing earth shattering, but regular guys could at least qualify. Thinking about a new street car class. Real street cars. Everything must work that came from the factory, AC, power steering, hell power windows. DOT approved tires. You do a little cruise around town, and when you end up at the track, you don't get to get out of your car, you just make a pass. No adjusting your tire pressures, or checking your wheelie bar, just go time. How cool would that be?
Kurt
Kurt
It would still be an 8-9 second class. When a factory ride can run in the 11's or quicker bone stock at weight, then it is not hard to imagine a lightened, modified Mustang/Vette/Camaro ect from showing up and dropping an 8 on the board. I know it has happened already. It will ultimately be about who has the deepest pockets....I know, I race with those guys. Lol But I am not in it to win, I enjoy the competition, even if I am the slowest out there. There are some real cool rides and even cooler people. I go to have fun, and that is what it should be about.
