Progress Thread Seriously? Another Boosted Coyote Swap Build? - Still Slowly Moving Forward
- Thread starter Hoytster
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Wow, are those original tires?
That's a nice looking car. I know it's a repaint, but any idea what color red that is? Will you be matching the bay while you have it all exposed?
That's a nice looking car. I know it's a repaint, but any idea what color red that is? Will you be matching the bay while you have it all exposed?
Ha, no unfortunately, they're called Mohawk Predator HRS. I have no clue how long they've been on the car, but its been awhile. Never thought about it but they do look a lot like old gatorbacks.
And thanks man, but I have idea what color red it is. This car was painted back in the mid 90's before my fiancé's dad bought it. It's pretty much a time capsule from that about that same time. I do plan on painting the engine bay and chassis to match while I have everything exposed. I wasn't going to match it at first, but my buddy HAD to talk me into it. I've haven't 100% decided on a color yet, but I'm thinking a deeper metallic blue......
Great build thread. I am interested in doing the same some day. All the details on the tough parts would be appreciated.
I totally understand using the car you already have. Cars kind of grow on you. I wouldn't want to start with a questionable car either.
Kurt
I totally understand using the car you already have. Cars kind of grow on you. I wouldn't want to start with a questionable car either.
Kurt
I'm planning on documenting this build pretty closely, concentrating on any custom work and the whole turbo coyote swap portion. I'll definitely keep everyone informed on the details. Let me know if you see something you want more info on because more than likely I'll have a million pics and can do a write-up.
And as a quick update, almost have the entire car torn down and inventoried. Should have another update by this weekend and will be looking for some engine bay smoothing suggestions.
These, hands down.
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-16054SPR/87-93-Mustang-Front-Fender-Apron-Pair-Completely-Smooth-No-Holes
Having done it both ways, this was by far easier
Those are exactly what I was looking at for the inner fenders skirts, was wondering if anybody has used them or not. Thanks for the heads up!
I was thinking of combining those with a couple of the Scott Rod's panels (shock tower panels, frame rail panels, upper firewall panel, and behind the shock tower panels). I feel like I could make those myself, but for the cost of them I'm thinking it might just be easier to buy them.
7upstang91
10 Year Member
$500 is a steal for a coyote motor. I thought mine for $1,000 was good.
Which transmission are you going to run?
Which transmission are you going to run?
I have to say I did get lucky on the engine. It popped up on craigslist and I made the 3-1/2 hour one-way drive the next day to pick it up. Took a chance but it seems to be working out in my favor.
I'm still deciding on the transmission. I have a few options I am looking at:
T56 Magnum - Most expensive option, will require a bell housing. Heaviest
Astro T5 (w9310 main shaft) - Second most expensive option, will require a bell housing
Pro-force Pro-CR TR3650 - Least expensive option, bell housing built in
I'm still deciding on the transmission. I have a few options I am looking at:
T56 Magnum - Most expensive option, will require a bell housing. Heaviest
Astro T5 (w9310 main shaft) - Second most expensive option, will require a bell housing
Pro-force Pro-CR TR3650 - Least expensive option, bell housing built in
I'd probably go with the 3650. Cheap, looks to be rated for the coyote motor's TQ, and they address the clunky 2nd gear shift issue that plagued them from the factory.
Still, a nice Astro T-5 can't be overlooked as it's light and shifts like butter.
Still, a nice Astro T-5 can't be overlooked as it's light and shifts like butter.
I really do like the way an Astro T-5 shifts and I'm concerned about weight, so the extra weight savings is a plus, but I'm leaning toward the built 3650 also. The pro-force one I listed is good for 575 ft/lbs which is a little less than I plan on making, but this car will be mainly used for street and some occasional track days. It won't be seeing too many sticky launches at the drag strip, though there might be a "few".....
You can sometimes catch them on sale for $100.
A few years ago, I scoffed at the Scott Rod panels and thought I could do it myself. I could cut and weld, so why not? I got it done, but it took weeks to get right and still didn't look "right". The panels were easier, by far.
Another thing I'll add... Several people start these endeavors and bite off too much at once - i.e. Start big motor build, engine bay cleanup, rear end beef-up, and complete suspension replacement all at once and it either a) takes too long or b) costs too much. I used to be the part-out king. I'm sure you've got a plan together, but more so than the budget, I'd spend a lot of effort breaking down the to-do list into compartmentalized projects. Do the engine first, build the turbo system and send it off for coating. While you're waiting for that to turn around, then do the engine bay.
I know that's unsolicited information, but you've got an awesome build planned and I want to watch it all go to completion. Good luck!
Page 1 has the DIY panels I was talking about:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/the-hoopty-build.833727/
Here is the LMR panel install:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...ack-to-mustang-stuff-seriously.879126/page-36
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/the-hoopty-build.833727/
Here is the LMR panel install:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...ack-to-mustang-stuff-seriously.879126/page-36
That was my thought exactly, I figured I could make them but for the amount of time I would spend on it, why not just spend the cash to buy them already made. Glad to hear you confirmed that.
And I do appreciate the advice, it was well received and respected. I understand where you are coming from with that as I've seen the same thing happen to many people/friends. Surprisingly, I do have a step by step plan laid out (and typed up) for this project and have done my best to be conscience of the amount of time, effort, and money this is going to take. This is one reason I don't have every item 100% figured out at this point, I know I have plenty of things to take care of before I even get to the point of deciding on certain items. No reason to wear myself out, just need to concentrate on one area at a time but still be aware of what the ultimate goal is so I don't do something that limits where I want to go with the car. For example, my goal right now is to work on the engine bay smoothing and through the floor sub frames while I send the motor out to start getting machined. The engine bay and sub frames are more labor intensive than wallet intensive so this gives me the opportunity to spend money on the engine/controls while I'm doing this. I'm not worrying or working on anything else until those items are done, I've gotten myself way deep into projects (mainly household) that I realized I have bit off more than I wanted to chew at one time. Not doing that to myself on this one, I enjoy doing these types of projects too much to make it.....work. I've had many friends think I'll be done with this in a year. I expect just the chassis and swap portion to take 2, then I will worry about suspension and the other items which might take me another 2.
I sold my 95' cobra and bought this car 5 years ago with the intention of doing this type of build. I haven't touched this car during that entire time knowing that I wanted to get my garage re-done and save up for this build before I even turned one wrench. That's extremely hard btw, I even had a turbo kit sitting in my garage at one point but was able to talk myself out of it. I just finished my garage about a month ago. My LeMon's car has at least kept my mechanical and fabrication "skills" sharp (at least as sharp as they can be!). Concerning budget, I know this is going to be expensive. I could buy a brand new mustang for what's going into this car, but it wouldn't be a car I built or have the sentimental value this car has.
And I always appreciate constructive criticism and suggestions. This is one reason I started one of these build threads. I also appreciate the encourage and is another reason I started this. Sometimes I get some crazy ideas and it's always good to have people to confirm those ideas or bring me back down to the level. Rock on
So I have the vehicle torn down to the point I felt comfortable with removing the inner fender skirts and getting the floor pan prepped to start cutting it for the through the floor sub frames.
Starting the removal of the sound deadening material. I know the dry ice technique is the quickest, but a heat gun and a scraper seemed to work really well on this old sound deadening. I'm also scraping out a majority of all the seam sealer since I plan on stitch welding some areas of the chassis.
Sound deadening all removed (except for the hatch area which I will get later)
Inner fender skirts all removed. I used almost 4 harbor freight spot weld cutters to do this.
I ordered the LMR smooth inner fenders and all the Scott Rod's panels for the engine bay (shock tower panels, frame rail panels, upper firewall panel, and behind the shock tower panels), so hopefully they will be in within the next couple weeks so I can start welding them in. I still have plenty of prep work to do in the engine bay before that, so I'm not to concerned if they don't show up right away. I'm going to be stitch welding the main structural areas of the engine bay/shock towers while I'm in here, which will also take some time.
I also need to get to the steel supply shop to pick up all the steel for the through the floor sub frames. Looking at 2"x3" .083 rectangular for the main rail and triangle bracing above the floor, some 1"x1" .083 for various underbody bracing, some 1/8" steel plate for gussets/plates, and some 1" round stock for the triangle bracing from the main rail to the rocker panel. I'm planning on going a little above and beyond what most people do by replicating the picture of the sub frame connectors below into the design. Since this car is going to be seeing some road racing, I want as much lateral support in the chassis as possible. I could do a lot of this strengthening with a cage, but I'm trying to keep my cage design to a minimum since this will also be a street car.
Starting the removal of the sound deadening material. I know the dry ice technique is the quickest, but a heat gun and a scraper seemed to work really well on this old sound deadening. I'm also scraping out a majority of all the seam sealer since I plan on stitch welding some areas of the chassis.
Sound deadening all removed (except for the hatch area which I will get later)
Inner fender skirts all removed. I used almost 4 harbor freight spot weld cutters to do this.
I ordered the LMR smooth inner fenders and all the Scott Rod's panels for the engine bay (shock tower panels, frame rail panels, upper firewall panel, and behind the shock tower panels), so hopefully they will be in within the next couple weeks so I can start welding them in. I still have plenty of prep work to do in the engine bay before that, so I'm not to concerned if they don't show up right away. I'm going to be stitch welding the main structural areas of the engine bay/shock towers while I'm in here, which will also take some time.
I also need to get to the steel supply shop to pick up all the steel for the through the floor sub frames. Looking at 2"x3" .083 rectangular for the main rail and triangle bracing above the floor, some 1"x1" .083 for various underbody bracing, some 1/8" steel plate for gussets/plates, and some 1" round stock for the triangle bracing from the main rail to the rocker panel. I'm planning on going a little above and beyond what most people do by replicating the picture of the sub frame connectors below into the design. Since this car is going to be seeing some road racing, I want as much lateral support in the chassis as possible. I could do a lot of this strengthening with a cage, but I'm trying to keep my cage design to a minimum since this will also be a street car.
On another note, got this guy last week. Figured it was about time I picked up one for myself as the thought of using a cutoff wheel to do all the chassis cutting was not exciting me. It isn't the one I wanted (I really wanted a Hypertherm 35xp), but this was on sale, I had a coupon, so the total cost was less than half of the Hypertherm, so I went for it. It has good reviews and a decent warranty so we will see how it holds up. I cut up some SS 14 guage sheet and gouged some 1/2" welds out with it over the weekend and it did a real good job.
Also picked up these new shoes for my truck. MAJOR difference from the stock Michelin's that came on it compared to these (General Grabber III Mud Terrain). Now I hopefully won't get stuck as easily getting my firewood.
Also picked up these new shoes for my truck. MAJOR difference from the stock Michelin's that came on it compared to these (General Grabber III Mud Terrain). Now I hopefully won't get stuck as easily getting my firewood.
I made my own version of those SF connectors. Only I made mine to attach to the bottoms of the standard sub frames like all normal connectors do, then ran the outriggers to a 1" square bar welded to the floor along the rocker pinch weld. I'm confident that they are far stronger than any single bar connector, regardless of whether or not it was through the floor.So I have the vehicle torn down to the point I felt comfortable with removing the inner fender skirts and getting the floor pan prepped to start cutting it for the through the floor sub frames.
Starting the removal of the sound deadening material. I know the dry ice technique is the quickest, but a heat gun and a scraper seemed to work really well on this old sound deadening. I'm also scraping out a majority of all the seam sealer since I plan on stitch welding some areas of the chassis.
Sound deadening all removed (except for the hatch area which I will get later)
Inner fender skirts all removed. I used almost 4 harbor freight spot weld cutters to do this.
I ordered the LMR smooth inner fenders and all the Scott Rod's panels for the engine bay (shock tower panels, frame rail panels, upper firewall panel, and behind the shock tower panels), so hopefully they will be in within the next couple weeks so I can start welding them in. I still have plenty of prep work to do in the engine bay before that, so I'm not to concerned if they don't show up right away. I'm going to be stitch welding the main structural areas of the engine bay/shock towers while I'm in here, which will also take some time.
I also need to get to the steel supply shop to pick up all the steel for the through the floor sub frames. Looking at 2"x3" .083 rectangular for the main rail and triangle bracing above the floor, some 1"x1" .083 for various underbody bracing, some 1/8" steel plate for gussets/plates, and some 1" round stock for the triangle bracing from the main rail to the rocker panel. I'm planning on going a little above and beyond what most people do by replicating the picture of the sub frame connectors below into the design. Since this car is going to be seeing some road racing, I want as much lateral support in the chassis as possible. I could do a lot of this strengthening with a cage, but I'm trying to keep my cage design to a minimum since this will also be a street car.
