Fox Setting timing for new motor

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Driver460sz

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First part of your process is right as stated, once it’s in at zero and the rotor pointed in the right spot there is no need to move or turn the dist again until you start the car up to actually set timing running . If this is a factory efi car make sure you pull the spout connector to set base timing. 12-14 on 93 is usually good.
Thank you. EFI, yes.
 

Driver460sz

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The old 20mins at 2k rpm is to break in a flat tappet cam.. in the new world of roller motors as long as the cylinders dont get washed out with fuel on the first break in run you should be just fine. bearings dont "break in" they get oil or they dont..

You sure you have a decent tune to start? You might want to get with @a91what to confirm some stuff for you if you're not sure.
That kind gentleman has helped me a few time (MORE THAN). I have been bothering him for weeks now. Thanks for the suggestion. He's good!
 
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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Roller lifter engine?
Stock rebuild?
Fire it up, set the timing then you can run it at 2k rpms for 20 minutes, watch the temps and oil pressure, shut it down plug in the spout and send that bugger down the road.
You don't do that on a roller engine. Just fire it up, set the timing and let it idle.

I actually set it up at 12 degrees BTDC on the pointer and rotor pointing at cylinder one. The closer you eyeball it to where you want it to be, the better it seems to fire up.

Kurt
 
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Driver460sz

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You don't do that on a roller engine. Just fire it up, set the timing and let it idle.

I actually set it up at 12 degrees BTDC on the pointer and rotor pointing at cylinder one. The closer you eyeball it to where you want it to be, the better it seems to fire up.

Kurt
And this is the conflicting info that has caused me to ask this question in this forum.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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And this is the conflicting info that has caused me to ask this question in this forum.

I'm saying you had it right the first time before you asked the question. I do it the way you said to do it, and it always worked better for me. I mean, why would you set it to 0 and drop the distributor when you want it to be at 12? Seems like you would just have to turn the distributor 12 degrees +/-5 instead of 0 degrees +/- 5.

Kurt
 
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Driver460sz

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Jan 14, 2019
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You don't do that on a roller engine. Just fire it up, set the timing and let it idle.

I actually set it up at 12 degrees BTDC on the pointer and rotor pointing at cylinder one. The closer you eyeball it to where you want it to be, the better it seems to fire up.

Kurt
And now this conflicting info.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Do what Kurt @revhead347 says, he likely has more experience than I do, if you feel you need to run it at 2k for 20 minutes you can, don't hurt nothin but it's not needed.
I set everything at 0* when replacing timing chain/cam stuff like that, I have my distributor marked so I can set the pointer to#1 and line up my marks on the base and intake, check it and forget it.
 
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a91what

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Your not going to pull the spout at all with the microsquirt.. you lock the timing under ign settings and then match that locked value by adjusting the distributor. Car likely wont start with the spout pulled due to how the micro gets its rpm signal
 
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Driver460sz

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Your not going to pull the spout at all with the microsquirt.. you lock the timing under ign settings and then match that locked value by adjusting the distributor. Car likely wont start with the spout pulled due to how the micro gets its rpm signal
That's a huge help. Thanks
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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I mark the distributor too. Pro-tip. Get a bottle of wite-out to mark stuff. Correction fluid makes the most visible marks, and it comes with a brush in the cap.

Kurt
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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I agree on firing it right up . No need to sit and rev the engine for 20 minutes with a hyd roller camshaft.
 
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