Shorty / Long Tube Header Question

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by k00ksta, Oct 14, 2013.

  1. I recently had these old Mac Equal Length Shorty Headers on my motor and developed an exhaust leak so I pulled the one off to find that the 2 of the tubes are totally warped and wont re-bolt up unless I bend them back into position. They do not have the cross flange metal brace between the exhaust tubes like every other manufacturer out there selling headers (Dougs, Flowmaster, ect) so I am canning them. I have the whole top half of the motor apart and was wondering if I could even just go with some long tube headers since now is the time to do it. Can you even get long tubes in the car without pulling the motor or whats the deal with the installation on them?

    Second what brands do you guys suggest and have had good experience with?

    Thanks for any help.
  2. Long tubes aren't hard to install at all. It's just a little time consuming. If you have the heads off, you can just slip them in before you put the heads back on. If the heads are on, you just have to jack up the engine one side at a time and slide them in from the bottom. Piece of cake. Most people go with the tried and true BBK 1519 header. It has a once piece flange, so you don't get the warping problem. You have to relocate the A/C line on the passenger side slightly so that the header doesn't burn it. You just pull it up a little, and screw the clamp in a little harder. No big deal.

    k00ksta likes this.
  3. Yup I can pull the heads that's not an issue I think I am going to go with those long tubes and call it a day.

    Will I need O2 extension harness to use these as well?

    Thanks for the suggestion Kurt.
  4. I'm not suggesting that you pull the heads to put the headers in. That is totally unnecessary. If the heads are already off, then it's easy. If they are still on, all you need is a floor jack. You have to the car up on jackstands, the higher the better, because you need some room under the car to angle the headers in. Then you put a jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood or something too distribute the load. Unbolt the right motor mount, it's just one nut under the K-member. Remove the starter, jack up the engine, and the header will slide right in. Drop the engine back down, and bolt the motor mount up again. Then go to the driver's side. Unbolt the motor mount, and the steering shaft. Slide the steering shaft off to the side, jack up the engine, and that header will slide right in.

    The A/C hose on the passenger side will be too close to the header, and will melt if you leave it in position. There is a little loop bracket that holds it to the strut tower. Go up in the wheel well, and drill a hole about two inches higher in the strut tower. Then go back up under the hood, detach the loop bracket, pull the hose up higher and re attach it with a bolt through your new hole.

    There are several options for the O2 sensors. I don't like buying extenders, because it's kind of a waste of money. You can extend the wires yourself if you are decent with a soldering iron. However, most people are honestly due for new O2 sensors anyway. Go the parts store and buy 2 oxygen sensors for a 92' Ford Explorer V6. 3.0 or 4.0L doesn't matter, they are the same. It will be two identical sensors with different pigtail lengths. They will be the perfect length for longtubes.

  5. Very good info Kurt. Thanks!
  6. There is also an issue with the condensation drain for the AC pissing on the headers which makes an annoying noise when the water boils off. It's not really an issue, just an annoyance. I am working on a remedy for this, but I haven't tested it yet.

  7. Naw I know you don't like it where you live but I pulled the AC off awhile ago :) so no worrys with the AC system at all. I actually should try to sell all of it maybe someone can use it. I can pull the heads no problem since its all completely drained down and already on blocks for the winter seasons coming here in Chicago so I probably will just go with them BBK long tubes and call it a night. Any suggestions on X-Pipe?
  8. I strongly recommend not pulling the heads. It is completely unnecessary. You won't believe how easily they slip in once you have the engine jacked up one side at a time. Take the money you would spend on new coolant and gaskets and buy new O2 sensors instead. Fair warning on the X-pipe. The last time I did this, the owner of the car bought a new set of BBK headers, and a new BBK X-pipe, and guess what, it didn't fit. It was a simple fix. The inlets on the X-pipe were set about 2" too wide. I used a ratchet strap to pull the ends together to make them fit. Took 3 minutes. I don't think any particular brand of X-pipe is better than any other. For BBK header, the BBK X-pipe will probably be the closest.

  9. ah, longtube install is over rated. Jack the car up at least 18" and the will slip right in from the bottom.
  10. and, you'll need to tie your clutch cable out of the way if its 5 speed or get an sn95 cable, as they are longer
  11. I have the BBK X-Pipe on my car. It was on there when I bought it, so I have no idea how the install went. But with stock manifolds and Flowturds out back it actually sounds really good. I have never been a fan of the Flowmaster sound. But with the BBK X I think it has a little bit lower grumble. But I do get some nasty drone around 2500 RPM. Not sure which component is the cause of that.
  12. Drone comes from a chambered muffler. The only way to get rid of the drone is to go to a higher quality muffler. If you have Flowbastards they will probably rust right off the car soon anyway.