Slop In The Spindle Bearing.

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by AIbandit, Dec 17, 2013.

  1. I replaced my spindle bearing less than 100 miles ago and I started hearing metal on metal. I jacked it up today and felt a little amount of slop.

    I don't really have a place to take it apart again since it's parked in the street. Is it ok to just re-torque and if it keeps making noise after that take it apart?
  2. Few questions for you. Don't take offense, just trying to eliminate potential causes.
    Why did the bearing fail?
    Did you coat the spindle with grease, and correctly pack the bearings with new grease?
    Did you use the old bearing races or install new ones.
    Replace both inner and outer or just the one?
    Reuse the old rotor or new?
    When you installed them, did you torque them down to proper preload and how much drag on the wheel did you get.. about 1 rotation of the wheel?
    Suspension in good shape? Is the slop when you move the tire up and down? That could be a bad ball joint, tie rod end.

    Metal on metal is not good. I would take that apart ASAP, as you do not want to gouge and ruin your spindle. Then you are in a whole new world of hurt replacing them.
  3. I have a question: What the **** car are we even talking about? Year? Model? If 79-93, is it a GT or LX? Start life as a 4-cyl or V8? All this matters if you're going to get any useful help at all.
  4. People usually take offense to help? I'm thankful for your time.
    I greased and packed them they're new bearings with new rotors, both inner and outer.
    When I torqued them I may of over torqued before finding the specs online but I loosened and then retorqued to the low number.
    I can see the rotor itself move independently of the caliper. both up down and side to side.
  5. Could you personally explain how it matters? especially the GT or LX part.
    "What the **** car are we even talking about?" I understand asking but come on...

    Please note the Fox 5.0 subforum.

    89 fox 5.0
    #5 AIbandit, Dec 17, 2013
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2013
    Noobz347 likes this.
  6. some cars have sealed bearings, thats why it can matter. it sounds like the bearings were run while too tightly torqued. there should be a bit of free play in the bearings when cold so that when the bearings heat up they have room to expand.
  7. Because many Fox 5.0's are wearing non standard brake systems these days. Using SN95 brake parts and spindles is VERY common these days. So yes, it does help to clarify which brake system we are talking about. Early fox 5.0's and 2.3's also use different spindles/bearings/rotors than the later models.

    So asking what model and year as well as what brake setup you have is a valid question
    #7 Mustang5L5, Dec 18, 2013
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2013
    AIbandit likes this.
  8. Because the 4-cylinder and 8-cylinder spindles are different, and so are the bearings. If you ask for LX bearings you'll usualy get 4-cylinder ones even if it's a 5.0. If you started with a 4-cylinder and got V8 bearings, that's a problem. The 94-up bearing is completely different design. THAT is why it matters. Now pretty please with sugar on top, be a lamb and answer the f-ing question so we can answer yours.
  9. They weren't ran over torqued I just over torqued them spun my wheel and figured that wasn't right. :)
    I'm pretty sure that was on my passenger side and the sloppy one is on my drivers. so maybe it just didn't seat all the way?
  10. Take the rotor off, inspect the bearings and races, and spindle. You'll see where the problem is.
  11. How did you install them?

    Back when i had those crappy brakes, i slide the bearings and rotor on the spindle, and spun the rotor while tightening the setup up by hand until I couldn't anymore. Then i torque to spec.

    17-25 ft-lbs to seat the bearing. Then loosen it and torque to 10-12 INCH-LBS for the final seating. Install cap and cotter pin, grab a bud and kick back and have the wife make you a steak
    AIbandit likes this.
  12. Make sure to use a beam style torque wrench.

    From the Ford Mustang Service Manual:

    1. Raise vehicle until tires clear the floor.

    2. Remove wheel cover. Remove grease cap from hub.

    3. Wipe excess grease from the end of the spindle. Remove the cotter pin and nut retainer. Discard the cotter pin.

    4. Loosen adjusting nut three turns. Rock wheel, hub, and rotor assembly in and out several times to push the brake shoe and linings away from the rotor.

    5. While rotating the wheel, hub, and rotor assembly in a counterclockwise direction, tighten the adjusting nut to 17 - 25 ft-lb to seat the bearings.

    6. Loosen the adjusting nut one-half turn, then re-tighten to 10 -28 in-lb, using an in-lb torque wrench.

    7. Place the nut retainer on the adjusting nut, so the castellations on the retainer are in-line with the cotter pin hole in the spindle.

    8. Install a new cotter pin, and bend the ends around the castellation flange of the nut retainer.

    9. Check front wheel rotation. If the wheel rotates properly, install the grease cap and wheelcover. If rotation is noisy and rough, follow procedures under "Replacement and Lubrication.

    10. Before driving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to restore normal brake pedal travel.
    AIbandit likes this.
  13. Why beam style? I only have ratchet torque wrenches.
    I'll take it a part, still working on cleaning my wife's junk out of my garage. Stole my moms Challenger in the mean time so I'll get by... :) It might be the longest spindle bearing job ever. Don't tell my fox though.
    Clearly the Ford FSM missed something very important.

  14. I concur. It's frustrating enough already with having the problem. Even more frustrating when asking for help and get your head bit off.

    Guys, if he knew enough to provide all of that information then he'd likely know enough to not have to ask you guys for help. :p

    It's why we are here.
  15. @AIbandit

    When you have the chance, go to your profile options and create a signature. You should put as many details as possible about your car. That way, when you ask a question, all that info is already in your sig. Be sure to list all of your mods (if any).
  16. Done though I probably forgot something important.
  17. You are actually measuring the effort or torque in inch pounds that it takes to rotate the rotor that is preloaded. A click type torque wrench is used for applying torque rather than measuring it. The click type will not give an accurate reading, Hope this makes sense.
    AIbandit likes this.
  18. I see, yes it does.

    Still not seeing my sig.

  19. It appears in your first post of any thread. Look up at the top of the thread. You'll see it there.
  20. Magic, Thanks again to everyone for their wisdom.