Progress Thread Slow Boat To China

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by hoopty5.0, Dec 3, 2012.

  1. Really? You think he's gonna change the existing structure out for "better tubing"? Have you seen the welds he's used to "tack" the mock up stuff? Looks pretty permanent to me.
  2. I can't find the one my buddy did but these are similar from yellow bullet mostly x275 cars
    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
  3. I don't know about you but I have a few grinders that would be up to the task, lol
    An unfortunate part of fabrication and especially when you first start is cutting stuff out when it's not quite right..
  4. Found some tubing in Houston. There's .065, .095, and .120. Would the thicker wall be more inclined to bend on my HF bender? I have a 240v welder also.

    Not trying to gain anything really, other than "look what I did." I just enjoy building stuff, even though it may be the long way home.

    As for the mounts, I'll cross that bridge as I come to it. I have an idea, but we'll see...
  5. After this evening, I'd feel like an idiot for not re-doing it. I can't quite claim ignorance anymore...
    84Ttop likes this.
  6. If its mild steel then I would certainly go .120 wall. Like I said look for a few YouTube videos on using that bender and not kinking the tubing. You will be amazed at how much more ridged it is. 240v welder is good. If you have a little propane/mapp gas torch just pre heat the metal before you weld it and you will find much better penetration than starting on it cold.
    gearheadboy likes this.
  7. Never heard that before either. Learn something new every day.
  8. I was simply stating a "what if?"
  9. After looking at the pictures of other tube front ends I see they all look like they would smear should something out of the ordinary happen. Was simply making conversation including my opinion. Me with my dumb arguments. I'll refrain from here on in. :runaway:
  10. No no your OK I was only jokin haha
  11. Going this morning to look at a complete 6.0l for a grand. Also going to stop by a metal place to see if they have the tubing I need...
  12. Today was a pretty decent day.

    I got this:



    It's a 2005 LQ4 - which is the lower compression (9.0:1) 6.0l LS motor. Scored it for a cool $950. It's clean on the inside too and the oil has good color.

    From there, I went to a steel supplier in the 'hood of north Houston (almost got capped, seriously) and got some .095 1 1/2" mild steel DOM tubing ($$$$$$$$). Almost had to trade a kidney for it. 84Ttop


    And was offered access to mandrel bender, so it should work out well.

    Finally, after getting back home and taking the engine apart, the mail man delivered my struts, so I put the front end together so I could push the car out and clean my disgusting garage. I like to keep it raceoholic-type-clean so it's been eating at me slowly the past couple of weeks...



    Finally, everything back to normal:


    Attached Files:

    91chp notch and Sharad like this.
  13. Sweet deal! Looking good, and nice garage BTW.
  14. Raceoholic-type clean. Hahah. I like that.
  15. Lookin' good!
  16. Thanks guys.

    The past few days have been spent at the office and putting a sprinkler system in my front yard. Might finish the teardown of the engine, but don't expect much from this thread for a while. Headed offshore next week. Gotta go make some monies $$$$...
    Sharad likes this.
  17. Engine is now a short block. Could use some cam bearings and I'm sure te main bearings aren't too far behind. Gonna try and find a mild turbo cam now I guess...

    Went to a swap meet this morning and scored a th400 from an rv for $100. I think my sub-10k budget is entirely feasible. 90% of the expensive stuff is bought already.

    Also, this guy is running a stock bottom end with a cam and intake. Turbo is an s500
    Sharad likes this.
  18. I should also add I'm getting an ls6 intake for cheap and a wiring harness too for cheaper.
    Sharad likes this.
  19. Remember the ARB issue I was having? Well it went down hill today. I narrowed the ARB 3.5" (With MUCH difficulty) to fit between the coil overs. The problem now is that the coil over crossmember is too far forward for the ARB to articulate up and down. I now have to cut out the crossmember, move it back a couple inches, and re-weld it up. After having a crap day with other issues, I left it alone. I'll deal with it later.

    I've found that the race car world is as close to rocket science precision and accuracy as anything else. As this is my first real build, everything is having to be done and re-done, just like the front end of the car. Anything worth doing is worth doing right though. Going to make it Grade A so this thing doesnt crumble under the power.

    The good news is the adapter to put a TH400 on the LSx is only $155.
  20. Love race cars yet? It gets easier the longer you do it, I promise. One thing about the crossmember/arb issue. The shocks must be plumb front to back and left to right which only leaves one spot for them to be. Moving the back may screw up the geometry of the shocks so check this carefully. As far as the arb goes you can trim the arm length equally on both sides, mount it above the floor with longer strut rods, or mount it on the rear end housing. You have a lot more options in mounting the arb than the shocks. Worse comes to it you can mount the shocks to tabs on the frame rail instead of the cross member. Also the anti roll bar tabs can be mounted on the front or back of the housing or if you mount the arb directly to the housing you can mount the tabs to the frame rail. Do look at it like rocket science, you are smarter than the metal!
    Sharad likes this.