Small back firing

Hello Mustang Lovers , have a question .. Having a small back firing around 2000 rpm acceleration, no check engine light , ran my bama tuner nothing , been running the 91 octane as said to with my tune still.. . Shop i go to can't find anything ?? I hear it alittle more then I open up the cutouts At acceleration on the hwy .. Not loud but curious on what it may be ??
 
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Hi, So you did search for codes even though no CEL was triggered?
“Cutouts” send up a red flag, if you have a small exhaust leak anywhere within the cutouts or along the exhaust, a pipe/weld/ flange that creates a vacuum from exhaust flow, it may cause thermal shock “pops” when cool air is pulled in/colliding with expelled superheated combustion gases.
RPM occurrence correlates with Exhaust flow (CFM).
Since you have it (BAMA/SCT “for life” I’m assuming?) do a datalog just to rule out the obvious, sent right to BAMA. It’s free.
Did this begin/change when you installed a new tune? What was the last thing done to the car prior to it’s occurrence?
Checking the basics, condensation near plugs; inside COP’s, unmetered air entering via a cracked vacuum Line or CAI joint, TPS, clean the MAF, etc..
Good luck!
-John
 
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Hi, So you did search for codes even though no CEL was triggered?
“Cutouts” send up a red flag, if you have a small exhaust leak anywhere within the cutouts or along the exhaust, a pipe/weld/ flange that creates a vacuum from exhaust flow, it may cause thermal shock “pops” when cool air is pulled in/colliding with expelled superheated combustion gases.
RPM occurrence correlates with Exhaust flow (CFM).
Since you have it (BAMA/SCT “for life” I’m assuming?) do a datalog just to rule out the obvious, sent right to BAMA. It’s free.
Did this begin/change when you installed a new tune? What was the last thing done to the car prior to it’s occurrence?
Checking the basics, condensation near plugs; inside COP’s, unmetered air entering via a cracked vacuum Line or CAI joint, TPS, clean the MAF, etc..
Good luck!
-John
Hello back 08gt500 , thank you for responding to my question.. The popping occurred recently like 2 weeks ago , I had my cutouts installed over 2 yrs now , I haven't done a proper cleaning of my maf since I had it installed over 3 yrs now I got the cleaner to do so. No vaccum leaks from up top engine bay my mechanic looks checked plugs they are still good my jlt filter is a lot dirty then before I hope its a simlle fix?? If not I'll take back my car to exhaust pros to have them go over it for exhaust leaks .. Thank you I'll let you know bro
 
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Hi,
I need to apologize, i was under the impression your mechanic gave it a full tune-up, including the air filter & diagnostics. So, the Car has this pop at 2K with the cutouts opened or closed
I’d certainly wash that filter out let it dry for a bit & re-oil, providing it’s a reusable type. Most are. If uncertain, the box it came in will have instructions. (It’s quite simple, any questions- feel free to ask!)
If that filter’s really dirty, it’s doing it’s job- but on the other hand, it needs to flow well or that may create issues.
Are you in an area where very excessive dusty conditions exist? clean & spiffy the CAI innards & clean the T.Body plates as well. It really just is nuts & bolts. A helpful tip: take lots of pictures before & during work, you’ll always have a references to review.
If you’re not comfortable doing this, I can send you links to proper video’s with the procedures being done correctly(?)
Did you try to reflash the Tune you’re running to the car’s CPU again? Sometimes this will help.
They make Filters specific to more than average dusty conditions, or more frequent cleaning intervals. The basics are most often what causes us the most tyranny.
4 quick questions..
1) Are you running OE COP’s, or aftermarket?
2) Does the motor seem to have power loss or stumble when this occurs, or just the 2,000 RPM pop’s?
3) This happens under acceleration, you checked for codes with your Tune, ever see a flashing CEL that goes away?
4) Any other things you may have done to the car or may have occurred right before you noticed this popping (anything; filled up at a different gas station, disconnected the battery, excessive rainfall)?
Best!
-John
 
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Hi,
I need to apologize, i was under the impression your mechanic gave it a full tune-up, including the air filter & diagnostics. So, the Car has this pop at 2K with the cutouts opened or closed
I’d certainly wash that filter out let it dry for a bit & re-oil, providing it’s a reusable type. Most are. If uncertain, the box it came in will have instructions. (It’s quite simple, any questions- feel free to ask!)
If that filter’s really dirty, it’s doing it’s job- but on the other hand, it needs to flow well or that may create issues.
Are you in an area where very excessive dusty conditions exist? clean & spiffy the CAI innards & clean the T.Body plates as well. It really just is nuts & bolts. A helpful tip: take lots of pictures before & during work, you’ll always have a references to review.
If you’re not comfortable doing this, I can send you links to proper video’s with the procedures being done correctly(?)
Did you try to reflash the Tune you’re running to the car’s CPU again? Sometimes this will help.
They make Filters specific to more than average dusty conditions, or more frequent cleaning intervals. The basics are most often what causes us the most tyranny.
4 quick questions..
1) Are you running OE COP’s, or aftermarket?
2) Does the motor seem to have power loss or stumble when this occurs, or just the 2,000 RPM pop’s?
3) This happens under acceleration, you checked for codes with your Tune, ever see a flashing CEL that goes away?
4) Any other things you may have done to the car or may have occurred right before you noticed this popping (anything; filled up at a different gas station, disconnected the battery, excessive rainfall)?
Best!
-John
Hi john, thanks for the help I just cleaned the maf and switched out the jlt filter with my other spare one I bought , and yes at 2000 rpm it pops but no lost of power aftermarket tune, 65mm throttle body all from american muscle no problems since 3 yrs old, regular maintance on her.. im going to take it out for a run in a few
 
Hi,
I need to apologize, i was under the impression your mechanic gave it a full tune-up, including the air filter & diagnostics. So, the Car has this pop at 2K with the cutouts opened or closed
I’d certainly wash that filter out let it dry for a bit & re-oil, providing it’s a reusable type. Most are. If uncertain, the box it came in will have instructions. (It’s quite simple, any questions- feel free to ask!)
If that filter’s really dirty, it’s doing it’s job- but on the other hand, it needs to flow well or that may create issues.
Are you in an area where very excessive dusty conditions exist? clean & spiffy the CAI innards & clean the T.Body plates as well. It really just is nuts & bolts. A helpful tip: take lots of pictures before & during work, you’ll always have a references to review.
If you’re not comfortable doing this, I can send you links to proper video’s with the procedures being done correctly(?)
Did you try to reflash the Tune you’re running to the car’s CPU again? Sometimes this will help.
They make Filters specific to more than average dusty conditions, or more frequent cleaning intervals. The basics are most often what causes us the most tyranny.
4 quick questions..
1) Are you running OE COP’s, or aftermarket?
2) Does the motor seem to have power loss or stumble when this occurs, or just the 2,000 RPM pop’s?
3) This happens under acceleration, you checked for codes with your Tune, ever see a flashing CEL that goes away?
4) Any other things you may have done to the car or may have occurred right before you noticed this popping (anything; filled up at a different gas station, disconnected the battery, excessive rainfall)?
Best!
-John
And yes john im going to trying another gas station maybe they have dirty gas I'm running 91 octane for the tune racing tune
 
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And yes john im going to trying another gas station maybe they have dirty gas I'm running 91 octane for the tune racing tune
Hi John , update ran her for a good while.. Took my bama tuner with me, she stutter at our first gear slighty , felt sluggish thru the gears , code came up misfire 3 cylinder wiped the code re flash the tuner to stock then uploaded the race tune again .. Still the same felt .. Think my coil packs are old they are over 2 yrs old.. Spark plugs are good still..
 
Hi, If they are not OE COP’s they historically do seem to fail quicker. Check your connections & if it found a misfire on #3 it was either coil or Injector. You can test it by moving it to another cylinder, swap & see if the misfire code gravitates to the new cylinder you installed the coil on. Then you’re certain it’s a coil related issue.
When you have a misfire under a load the Check engine light may flash during the misfire, but not remain on. Just an FYI.’if these are aftermarket, still have any stock ones you can use?
Best!
-John
 
Hi, If they are not OE COP’s they historically do seem to fail quicker. Check your connections & if it found a misfire on #3 it was either coil or Injector. You can test it by moving it to another cylinder, swap & see if the misfire code gravitates to the new cylinder you installed the coil on. Then you’re certain it’s a coil related issue.
When you have a misfire under a load the Check engine light may flash during the misfire, but not remain on. Just an FYI.’if these are aftermarket, still have any stock ones you can use?
Best!
-John
Hey John , do very much Appreciate the help your giving bro Thank You Very Much Bro I'll check by switching around cops I'll know more tomorrow browski
 
Hey John , thanks bro it wasn't the cop it was a plug missing a electrico rod broke off from the bottom of the plug lol , replaced it check the cop and other plugs only the #3 was bad Problem Solved Thank God lol Thanks Bro

No problem at all with helping you, happy to be of any help I was so far. Anytime!

Hi,
Glad to hear the culprit was identified & is now corrected, however.... i’m thinking you should follow up on this, for the sake of your motor. What actually transpired to cause this?
Sound like your mechanic should’ve swapped out plugs, anyway. Going through all the trouble to pull them- well worth the extra $$. The OE’s from 05’-08’ S197’s were (2) pc OE Plugs, became a nightmare unless you were ultra delicate in removing them, or they liked to snap off in the heads. Pretty sure it didn’t have OE’s. Plugs are not new- right, couple years old?
What plugs are you running?
It’s near stock with a Cai, a tune, and cutouts.
Maybe Exhaust axlebacks?

VERIFYING I’M UNDERSTANDING THIS CORRECTLY:
If I’m understanding correctly, a piece of a spark plug actually detached inside a cylinder. If it wasn’t inside the cylinder, forget reading the below.
If it was, it’s capable of damaging cylinder walls/pistons/rings, bending the exhaust valve. In all likelihood, It damaged nothing & made it out and into your exhaust system.
YOUR SCENARIO:
A shop recently looked at your Plugs, inspection revealed nothing to them. You should take the initiative to follow up & make certain everything’s ok, no damage was done, no further damage will occur. Question is......
Why did the spark plug’s ground strap disappear?
1) Plug damaged by gapping using the wrong tool, method, causing a stress fracture, eventually, during the combustion process, it fails.
2) Metal fatigue. Factory defect. Not so likely.
3) Detonation. Octane too low for timing advance.
4) Cutouts May cause burned valves, depending on where they’re placed. Street motors need a certain amount of backpressure. Shutting the Motor off when going to cutouts will prevent the superheated combustion gases from being thrown back at the cylinders & trapping heat it’s trying to expel, raising EGT’s higher. This may also melt Plugs.
A GOOD SCANTOOL:
There are others, of course, only a few issues that can sneak by without triggering a CEL.. eventually. Many times it’ll be a pending code that only shows up if you pull Codes with a scantool. 90% of the time, codes are not the direct problem. They’re only clues, troubleshooting yields the rest to locate the actual issue.
GATHER INFORMATION, READ, LEARN, APPLY..
This is where you need to study the shop manual for your car, learn more about things, use resources like SN has, and others to get to more specific content. A decent Scantool, phone linked OBD2 Bluetooth diagnostic connector, or Software for your laptop is something to invest in. Prices are not expensive, importance highly outweighs one visit to the shop, costs less by far.
Important to be prepared if something goes awry. You shouldn’t be concerned about when/if something else strikes (which it will). You should become well prepared, learn how to test from point to point using a multimeter, NOID light, schematics as a reference.
SPARK PLUGS...
You still have the old plugs, didn’t replace only one- right?
Spark Plugs leave evidence as to what’s occurring inside the cylinder(s), this was one crucial way to on nostalgic cars to dial a motor in & still is. As gas motors had & have the same basic requirements as they always did, Here’s an example..
TUNING..
Send a request for a datalog to BAMA so they may review the Tune, include the symptoms..it’s free with the BAMA tunes for life’ on A.Muscle.
Any questions, please fire away. (no pun intended) lol!
Happy Holidays to you & yours.
- John




Friendly FYI regarding 05’-07’ Mustangs:


Know that Sinking feeling you get when something goes terribly awry= the feeling you get when, despite all the Deep creep & days of slowly backing those OE 2Pc plugs out mm by mm, it’s loosening..then resistance on the ratchet goes..away. I’d Read Alice in Wonderland to my daughters..to coin an applicable phrase.. “Off with her HEAD!” lol.

“CHRISTMAS TREE S197’s”
05’s-07’s also had water leak issues, outside into the A pillar or hood, makes its way to the SJB (under dash, passengers side). Troubleshooting was pushing up on the door frame & rocking the car, if random lights start coming on, e.g; 1 Rt tail amp, 1 left headlamp, etc, (sorta’ like Christmas lights) there’s water in the SJB..

CHARGING SYSTEM:
There was also charging system issues linked to ineffective ground wiring in these S197’s (Ford Fixed most by 2008). Search for Tech bulletins on the 05’-08’ Mustangs. Just so you’re aware.

Ready to get a manual & a Good Scantool yet?
lol!
Talk to you soon!.
-John
 
No problem at all with helping you, happy to be of any help I was so far. Anytime!

Hi,
Glad to hear the culprit was identified & is now corrected, however.... i’m thinking you should follow up on this, for the sake of your motor. What actually transpired to cause this?
Sound like your mechanic should’ve swapped out plugs, anyway. Going through all the trouble to pull them- well worth the extra $$. The OE’s from 05’-08’ S197’s were (2) pc OE Plugs, became a nightmare unless you were ultra delicate in removing them, or they liked to snap off in the heads. Pretty sure it didn’t have OE’s. Plugs are not new- right, couple years old?
What plugs are you running?
It’s near stock with a Cai, a tune, and cutouts.
Maybe Exhaust axlebacks?

VERIFYING I’M UNDERSTANDING THIS CORRECTLY:
If I’m understanding correctly, a piece of a spark plug actually detached inside a cylinder. If it wasn’t inside the cylinder, forget reading the below.
If it was, it’s capable of damaging cylinder walls/pistons/rings, bending the exhaust valve. In all likelihood, It damaged nothing & made it out and into your exhaust system.
YOUR SCENARIO:
A shop recently looked at your Plugs, inspection revealed nothing to them. You should take the initiative to follow up & make certain everything’s ok, no damage was done, no further damage will occur. Question is......
Why did the spark plug’s ground strap disappear?
1) Plug damaged by gapping using the wrong tool, method, causing a stress fracture, eventually, during the combustion process, it fails.
2) Metal fatigue. Factory defect. Not so likely.
3) Detonation. Octane too low for timing advance.
4) Cutouts May cause burned valves, depending on where they’re placed. Street motors need a certain amount of backpressure. Shutting the Motor off when going to cutouts will prevent the superheated combustion gases from being thrown back at the cylinders & trapping heat it’s trying to expel, raising EGT’s higher. This may also melt Plugs.
A GOOD SCANTOOL:
There are others, of course, only a few issues that can sneak by without triggering a CEL.. eventually. Many times it’ll be a pending code that only shows up if you pull Codes with a scantool. 90% of the time, codes are not the direct problem. They’re only clues, troubleshooting yields the rest to locate the actual issue.
GATHER INFORMATION, READ, LEARN, APPLY..
This is where you need to study the shop manual for your car, learn more about things, use resources like SN has, and others to get to more specific content. A decent Scantool, phone linked OBD2 Bluetooth diagnostic connector, or Software for your laptop is something to invest in. Prices are not expensive, importance highly outweighs one visit to the shop, costs less by far.
Important to be prepared if something goes awry. You shouldn’t be concerned about when/if something else strikes (which it will). You should become well prepared, learn how to test from point to point using a multimeter, NOID light, schematics as a reference.
SPARK PLUGS...
You still have the old plugs, didn’t replace only one- right?
Spark Plugs leave evidence as to what’s occurring inside the cylinder(s), this was one crucial way to on nostalgic cars to dial a motor in & still is. As gas motors had & have the same basic requirements as they always did, Here’s an example..
TUNING..
Send a request for a datalog to BAMA so they may review the Tune, include the symptoms..it’s free with the BAMA tunes for life’ on A.Muscle.
Any questions, please fire away. (no pun intended) lol!
Happy Holidays to you & yours.
- John




Friendly FYI regarding 05’-07’ Mustangs:


Know that Sinking feeling you get when something goes terribly awry= the feeling you get when, despite all the Deep creep & days of slowly backing those OE 2Pc plugs out mm by mm, it’s loosening..then resistance on the ratchet goes..away. I’d Read Alice in Wonderland to my daughters..to coin an applicable phrase.. “Off with her HEAD!” lol.

“CHRISTMAS TREE S197’s”
05’s-07’s also had water leak issues, outside into the A pillar or hood, makes its way to the SJB (under dash, passengers side). Troubleshooting was pushing up on the door frame & rocking the car, if random lights start coming on, e.g; 1 Rt tail amp, 1 left headlamp, etc, (sorta’ like Christmas lights) there’s water in the SJB..

CHARGING SYSTEM:
There was also charging system issues linked to ineffective ground wiring in these S197’s (Ford Fixed most by 2008). Search for Tech bulletins on the 05’-08’ Mustangs. Just so you’re aware.

Ready to get a manual & a Good Scantool yet?
lol!
Talk to you soon!.
-John
Thank you John , I did check out the spark plug code and seen mine issue was carbon built up . My job I drive to or anything else is all close .. Im using brisk 400 HP sparks .. I ran the Stang yesterday and today , did sum pulls listening or feeling her if she struggled at all ?? Nope she ran Great I think spark plug must have pushed out thank god lol no damaging .. My cutouts were installed by exhaust pros , owner is a coyote owner he install those cutouts after the catalytic converter whole new system from headers to tips.. She runs and sounds Great feels Good again and Strong too I hope its done lol for now I guess my baby giving me :poo: lol Thanks John Your Very Well Knowledgeable Thanks Bro im on facebook bro jesse fuentes Merry Christmas and Happy New years
 
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Thank you John , I did check out the spark plug code and seen mine issue was carbon built up . My job I drive to or anything else is all close .. Im using brisk 400 HP sparks .. I ran the Stang yesterday and today , did sum pulls listening or feeling her if she struggled at all ?? Nope she ran Great I think spark plug must have pushed out thank god lol no damaging .. My cutouts were installed by exhaust pros , owner is a coyote owner he install those cutouts after the catalytic converter whole new system from headers to tips.. She runs and sounds Great feels Good again and Strong too I hope its done lol for now I guess my baby giving me :poo: lol Thanks John Your Very Well Knowledgeable Thanks Bro im on facebook bro jesse fuentes Merry Christmas and Happy New years
Hi Jesse,
Glad that’s all working out for you, must have misinterpreted that plug breakage being internal, lol. Very happy that’s a done deal & hope all remains well for you. Glad to hear she’s running strong for you!’I’m not on Facebook much, more of an IATN & Twitter, LinkedIn guy. But my wife & I share a FB account, will send you an invite. That’s great all is well!
Take care, stay safe and Happy Holidays!!
Best!
-John.
M/C 52923’s are excellent, too. Less chance of fouling with average driving, or give it a good hop every now & then.
3VR17YS Sparks @ .037 in my 08 GT, it’s right on the 450HP line, I’m an aggressive driver in the right places, Snow up here now, so she’s hibernating, as is the rest of the ‘clan’. My GT500 runs Motorcraft a tad colder range. She’s never even seen snow, 18K on her. Watch for your CMCV’s getting carbonized, stay ahead of them, Pony’s rebel, lol. I’d removed mine, restrictive. but a little low low end loss, but revs to the moon with my Cams, intake, Headers, Borla’s. Rough extreme going in when I have the other cars finished. Good luck!!!
 
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Too many!!!! For this year...lol
 
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Pony Xing! Merry Christmas to me 8.5yrs ago. lol. Happy Holidays to all, stay away from the spiked egg nog (for the Southern members that are still driving their Potent or Venomous Pony’s)!!! I have a designated driver (the only possibility of viable usage for the near true pilot Tesla’s).
Actually drove one & it was pretty quick, linear. I can’t hate them, as I’m an E.E., only hate them when they are not parked. Little EVP is all it takes. Really just need a Mach 1,000 12 speaker system that cranks out the sound of a 5.0, w/RPM’s that rise accordingly as you accelerate/decelerate...
 

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