Progress Thread SN95 "Project Father & Son" 1994 GT

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VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
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I got everything under the hood buttoned up. All vacuum lines run and everything plugged in. New Episode on YouTube coming soon. I want to include the first start.

All I have left is:

*Now that I can key on I can move the driver seat up to get to the bolts. Once the seat is removed, finish installing the brake booster and Steeda clutch cable.
*Need to cap the BBK X-Pipe, not running any smog equipment so I have a rubber hose end for that.
*Fluid - Coolant & Water, then Brake Fluid then bleed the brakes.
*Ball Joints - Ordered and just waiting for them to arrive.

Man I hope this intake don't leak or having issues with the injectors. I had torquing issues with the lower intake on round 2.

Here is the car from last night. Notice the OEM hardware on the radiator cover. If you don't know these plastic clips break when removed so I ordered all new OEM plastic hardware so it's correct.

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Untitled by jpjr501, on Flickr
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
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UPDATE

The Onion strikes again, apparently Summit sent me the wrong FRPP Adjustable clutch cable and quandrant. I say they did it because I ordered 8 items on the phone with a sales guy and he had my year. A few of the other items were year specific and they are fine.

So I had the FRPP 1996-2004 kit the entire time, since July 18, 2018. So what to do? Their policy is 90 days so I decided I'll make this work. The 94-95 kits come with 2 bushings for the quadrant and the clutch cable is longer than what I have.

Well I made my own bushings out of sprinkler pipe plastic (only thing I had laying around) for now. As for the cable length I was able to crank the Steeda firewall adjuster all the way to the firewall to give me the slack needed to grab the hooks on the quadrant and make it through the clutch fork. Problem is not much thread on the clutch fork. I'm thinking I should find a threaded sleeve to make it longer. Hopefully the clutch cable stretches a little bit.

Ball Joints arrived yesterday but with the Daytona 500 on my boys wanted to hang I didn't have time. These seem to look like the ones I purchased previously but with a different boot.


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Untitled by jpjr501, on Flickr

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Untitled by jpjr501, on Flickr


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Untitled by jpjr501, on Flickr
 
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VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
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Decided to fire the car last night. I was only running on 4 cylinders (driver's side) and then smelt fuel so I killed it. It'll be in the next episode.

There was a pool of fuel under 3 injectors on the passenger side. The driver's side was one dry, the fixed injector is on that side too so all is well.

It was obvious right away that the passenger side fuel rail was doing a wheelie from the back to the front.

It's an easy fix so here are some pics. The problem is this aftermarket distributor, the front fuel rail is hitting it not allowing it to move downward. I'll get it worked out and move on.

33280555978_4769c66cd4_b.jpg
Untitled by jpjr501, on Flickr

33280557408_837a28ede1_b.jpg
Untitled by jpjr501, on Flickr
 

VibrantRedGT

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Thanks for the votes, I'll paint the cap and then post a new pic. I'll use the same ceramic paint as the other parts to match.

The reason I like the breather is that hose going from the cold air to the valve cover I can take off (just cap the CAI and Valve cover). That hose looks hideous, it's so tight and basically interfering with the alternator wires.

Also, with the cap, I have to take the cold air kit off to remove it. The cap will not unscrew so to add oil will be a pain but then again how often will I need to do this. The cold air kit I basically made, it's all cut up to my specs which is why the cap is so tight on it.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Can you get a spacer for the intake to elbow, I think I have one, don't know what the opening size is. That would move the elbow a 1/2" and give you some space.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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No, between the intake and the elbow for the throttle body. Do you have room to move it closer to the strut tower? That would give you room for the oil fill cap. I'll look before I go to the shop, maybe I can find mine and pop a pic.
 

WhiteCobra95

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May 2, 2006
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Great build! I've been reading this one since the beginning and you do very nice work. I'm really looking forward to reading how this progresses.

Here is some feedback, some comments, and a question:

Regarding the breather vs. cap on the valve cover, don't run the open breather - it's like having a large vacuum leak. If you have the low load PCV circuit at the back of the lower intake hooked up to the intake manifold plenum volume, then adding the breather allows the PCV system to draw in un-metered air. The PCV system operates in two modes: light / part load and high load. The hose from the filler neck allows the crank case to pull in fresh air after it's been metered by the MAF at low to mid loads. This fresh air flows through the crank case picking up vapors, then flows into the intake manifold through the PCV valve to get consumed / burned by the engine. The PCV valve is a fixed orifice size to keep the air flow constant at low manifold pressure / high vacuum. As intake manifold pressure goes up (towards higher load), the flow drops off and becomes less significant as a lower percentage of the total air flowing into the engine. At high loads (like WOT) where you can have positive crank case pressure, the PCV valve closes and cuts off the direct flow to the intake. The filler neck hose reverses flow changing from a fresh air feed to a dirty air high load circuit. Positive crank case pressure (resulting from some level of blow-by) flows out of the case into the zip-tube pre-throttle to get consumed. The main point here is that when operating in the low to mid loads zone where the PCV system is flowing air directly into the intake, this resulting fresh air flow needs to be metered by the MAF, otherwise you might have all of the same issues that come from a vacuum leak such as idle control problems and messed up fuel trims / adaptations. The other less critical issue is that having the open breather will eventually dirty up your engine from the oil / fuel vapors venting out through that breather filter when you hammer it.

The gold engine paint looks great! I was skeptical at first, but after seeing it in action I'm convinced. It really gives it a more refined / classic 289 look.

What brand throttle body is that? I've never seen an SN95 TB with that sort of finish - it almost looks like a billet throttle body housing in the pictures.
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
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Great build! I've been reading this one since the beginning and you do very nice work. I'm really looking forward to reading how this progresses.

Here is some feedback, some comments, and a question:

Regarding the breather vs. cap on the valve cover, don't run the open breather - it's like having a large vacuum leak. If you have the low load PCV circuit at the back of the lower intake hooked up to the intake manifold plenum volume, then adding the breather allows the PCV system to draw in un-metered air. The PCV system operates in two modes: light / part load and high load. The hose from the filler neck allows the crank case to pull in fresh air after it's been metered by the MAF at low to mid loads. This fresh air flows through the crank case picking up vapors, then flows into the intake manifold through the PCV valve to get consumed / burned by the engine. The PCV valve is a fixed orifice size to keep the air flow constant at low manifold pressure / high vacuum. As intake manifold pressure goes up (towards higher load), the flow drops off and becomes less significant as a lower percentage of the total air flowing into the engine. At high loads (like WOT) where you can have positive crank case pressure, the PCV valve closes and cuts off the direct flow to the intake. The filler neck hose reverses flow changing from a fresh air feed to a dirty air high load circuit. Positive crank case pressure (resulting from some level of blow-by) flows out of the case into the zip-tube pre-throttle to get consumed. The main point here is that when operating in the low to mid loads zone where the PCV system is flowing air directly into the intake, this resulting fresh air flow needs to be metered by the MAF, otherwise you might have all of the same issues that come from a vacuum leak such as idle control problems and messed up fuel trims / adaptations. The other less critical issue is that having the open breather will eventually dirty up your engine from the oil / fuel vapors venting out through that breather filter when you hammer it.

The gold engine paint looks great! I was skeptical at first, but after seeing it in action I'm convinced. It really gives it a more refined / classic 289 look.

What brand throttle body is that? I've never seen an SN95 TB with that sort of finish - it almost looks like a billet throttle body housing in the pictures.

Thanks for replying, you'll see in the next video I opted out of the breather and went with the stock setup.

The Throttle body is a 70MM from BBK and the MAF is a 76MM from BBK. Both came with the car.
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
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Well boys I have a bit of a situation. I was recently promoted at work (which is a good thing) but it requires travel. Not a ton, about 25-30% and I no longer have a 9 to 5 gig. I'm constantly working at home after work and they haven't hired me a full time Assistant yet (3 people never made it to the 2nd round). It seems nobody wants to work anymore. I haven't been on here in a month.

Anyway, the car has been sitting for a long time. Probably for well over a month, battery is dead, it's collecting dust. I'm going to get rid of the car or part it out, haven't decided. My son has lost interest, I don't have the time so I would like to buy something already ready to go.

I'm thinking of a 2010-2012 GT500. Sure I would love to get the 2013-2014 GT500 but the gap from a 2012 to 2013 can be $10-$15K. I get it, 5.8 vs. 5.4 and 112HP / 100TQ more with the 2013-14's over the 10-12's. I got a kid in college and another kid in high school so I have a budget number.

In 2 weeks I'm doing a West Coast run, flying into LAX there for a day then fly out to Seattle for 3 days. After this trip I need to make up my mind and get serious about the plan.
 
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hoopty5.0

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Man, I hear that loud and clear. I'm in a similar situation with work and free time and hence, dumped my project car for something else. My only comment is, what is keeping this next car from sitting for days/weeks/months while you make payments and then get jaded because you never drive it? I'm not throwing that out there to be crass, I am just curious because that seems to be the going rate for cars in that particular market.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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Nov 29, 1999
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I think that you have to decide whether having a completed project that you drive is more important than having something to work on in pursuit of that, or ....resign yourself to paying somebody to do the work for you.

That said, I think there are two or three types of car guys...
1. Get in it and drive.
This guy doesn't have the time, or knowledge to work on the car and doesn't want to. Or, he can do all of that, but has the sensibility to know how much he can do....this time. He wants it to run and drive. Rarely making any mod that doesn't go towards looks/comfort/reliability, all in the interest of keeping it running. Perfectly happy to have the car in the state that it came from the factory, albeit with addition creature comfort/looks improvements as mentioned above.
(This guy is Iowa Nick)
2. It'll get done..someday.
The killer of the running car. Whether its budget, time, or pure lack of effort. This guy has a car that is covered up under something in the garage. It could be boxes, or dust..this guy bit off more than he could chew, and now there's a whole mouthful of unfinished stuff that'll never get done because the thought process " if I'm doing this, I might as well do that" outweighed logic. This is the car that if not buried for 5 years gets sold off for a fraction of what's invested, usually in pieces. ( you know who you are here)
3. Well,.its done. Now what?
Speaking from experience. This is the guy that prefers the work more than the finished result. The finished result is temporary, as there's always something left to do, make better, or change. This car is also probably one that'll get sold off purely because the owner gets bored with it, or decides that it's time to stop pouring time and money into it. ( me)
4. How much did you say it was gonna cost?
This guy knows his limitations like guy #1. He may be capable, he may want to do the work, and he may have the time, but having a running car is more important than the money it costs to get it to that state. Too many life obstacles stand in the way, and being able to drive the end result on Saturday is a priority. Every thing is on the table. Performace/cosmetics/convenience/comfort. it's all just a matter of time and money. Usually at the mercy of a shop that usually takes forever to get it done. ( again, you know who you are)

I know I'm far from typical here, but I'm getting there. The " obstacle" standing in my way is how bad my knees hurt after spending a day standing on pavement, working on the car. When the lease is up on the current mindless people mover, I mightconsider selling the monster to leverage myself into a BMW super car ( M2) that I ordinarily wouldn't be able to afford.

I might.
 

Mustang5L5

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I guess i can kinda relate.

I think i enjoy working on my fox more than actually driving it, but at the same time i want a nice, turn-key Mustang that has decent performance that I leave 100% stock and only focus on polishing the engine bay