So now my window wont roll down. Possable causes?

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by hotmustang331, Apr 3, 2007.

  1. Well after doing a little grinding on teh K member a few minutes ago (slight header clearance issues I never really took car of) I got in the car and went to roll the window down and nothing...everytime I press the switch "click" but no dice :nonono: .

    Pass side works just fine..but when you go to roll the drivers side, the window doesnt budge and theres a clicking sound that comes from under the dash near the fuse box everytime you press it....its not coming from the door, besides the noise the switch itself makes.

    Cars very first actual problem :(

    So anyone have any idea what this is? Motor going bad (the pass window slows down when you try and roll down the drivers it seems like something is eating power) or solenoid? Could it have somehow came off the track and wont budge an inch? BTW I have had 0 problems with this window before now...working just fine a few days ago, now just totally stops. Thanks :)
  2. This is apparently a common problem in Fords and there's a simple fix for it.
    You sit inside the car, and keep the window switch held down as you slam the door harder than you normally would. No joke. Try this method before you start taking things apart.
  3. Ok, ill give it a whirl :)
  4. Holy crap. I'm having the same exact problem. Just get the "click" and nothing. Passenger side is fine. I'll have to give the door slam a try, also.
  5. Slamming the door almost always works. Also, you may have to wait a while for the motor to cool off for it to work. If it does not work today, try slamming again tomorrow.

    Also, I believe this is caused by the rubber strips that the door glass passes in between as it goes up and down. Keeping the glass very clean also aids in these rubber strips staying clean and in good condition and allowing the window to move freely. If these strips start to degrade for whatever reason they can "hang up" the window every time it moves... In a worst case scenario, the rubber actually flips under on itself and exposes the non-felt covered high friction bare rubber side to the glass. This causes severe drag and can stop the window's movement or overheat the motor and cause a temporary failure of the motor. Usually the motor works again once allowed to cool off.

    It is important to keep those strips clean and lubricated, usually with silicone spray or 303 Aerospace Protectant or both.
  6. Well the dorr slamming thing didnt work :( Pushing down on the glass and clicking down on the botton...still nodda.

    Took the entire door apart and checked all the tracks...everything is fine, motor is getting power (watchit, it gets hot). I even loosened up one of those glass holders becuase it look like it was in a dice still. Tried to take the motor out, but it doesnt appear to be easy. Apparently ill have to take all the rails off...but I dont think ill do that. Im going to loosen both of those glass holders and give it another shot.

    man this is soooo annoying lol. But I greatly appreciate the help :nice: . keep it coming...iv never even taken ANY door apart that I can recall haha.
  7. if the motor is getting hot i'm guessing it might be seized up:shrug:
  8. Yep....thus why the window wont roll down. Motor activiates but something is keeping it from rolling the window down. I dont know how the motor itself could just sieze up though...and as far as the tracks go there is greese EVERYWHERE.
  9. If you're getting power to the motor, its gotta be the motor. Power to the motor with the switch activated means the whole circuit prior to the motor is fine (you probably know this anyway, just thinking outloud).

    Try this. Similar to the door slamming trick, but try to use something to tap on the motor with a hammer while you get someone to press the switch. We use this trick at work all the time if any type of motor goes bad. I've seen it work on a wiper motor, starter and fuel pump. Mostly fuel pumps and starters. We usually use a long prybar and a hammer for the starter if that gives you an idea.
  10. thus my previous statement. if the door slammin' trick didn't work i'm guessing the motor itself might be seized internally:shrug:

    so when you activate it you can see it "torque" over correct?
  11. Its your car's way of telling you its rejecting the TT's :eek:.... I guess you'll have to take them off and ship them to me :D
  12. I have the EXACT same problem. The door slam method only works about 30% of the time. Usually its fine later on during the day, or the next day.

    Oddly, it has NEVER EVER done it to my wife. It does it to me about 3 times a week.:shrug:
  13. This happened to me once on the passenger side, then ten minutes later it started working again LOL... I wonder if there is a TSB for this??
  14. Im almost going to be mad if I go back out there tomorrow and it works fine :rlaugh: (not really)

    Didnt realize this was such a common issue...I guess Ford screwed something up. I just have no idea whats wrong. And oddly enough you cant see the motor even budge...its almost like its not trying or its so jamed up that it cant move. Ill try beating on the motor and see what happens also. LOL

    And yea that would be awsome if it had a TSB :D
  15. :lol: :lol: :lol:
  16. I made a thread on replacing window regulator with pics and part prices in 4.6 tech, you might want to check it out...
  17. First thing, disconnect your window switch on the passenger side, and change it with your driver side and see if it works.

    There is a common problem of the window switches 'them self' blowing out, so rule that out before you go tearing more than a door apart to find out what is wrong
  18. I don't see anything funny about my comment :shrug:

    :jester: :rlaugh:
  19. Agreed, your method would be the best. However his issue also sounds like mine when the regulator failed. I hope you are right though and it is just the switch :nice:
  20. UPDATE! Well went out to the car this morning (mid you all of the bolts that hold the motor were out..but the thing wouldnt budge last night) and pressed the down button. I hear a clunk/pop and the motor falls off the track :D . I pick it up and tested it out...motor worked perfect. I then pushed on the went down and I could lift it up. Sprayed some WD40 on the little contact pads and it go much easier.

    Threw the motor back in and bolted it back down. BINGO works like a charm. :D

    Somehow the motor got into a bind I guess..but its working great. Thanks for all your help :nice:

    But no, everything is not ok..figures. Took it for a long drive and right as I pulled into my driveway BAM engine light came on :mad: . (first time ever BTW...55.5K) I assume its my coil pack because when I first cranked it was missing like crazy and would hardly run. But after a few minutes it straightened up to like "normal" with its normal slight miss its had for the past 30K. I think im off to autozone then and see if they will pull the code....and maybe track down my issue :)