Some pictures of my project... The Mustang SHO
- Thread starter wicked93gs
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whys that? this isnt a mustang clutch or flywheel...people shift SHOs at 7k all the time...even 8k(though I wont in reality be shifting quite that high) but a scattershield is a good just in case idea, as far as the shifter relocation goes...if it was a FWD tranny I could do it with cables...but RWD shifters(or t5 shifters anyway) are set up differently, but I guess a simple rod would do the trick ...or one rod on each side to keep enough tension on the remote shift lever...I'll have to play with it to find out
well, a bit of progress....I finally found a good t5 transmission...from a 2001 mustang v6 with 81k miles for $250...which was by the best deal I could find around here...it seems to shift perfectly and looks to be in awesome condition, which is the advantage of getting one of the v6 T5s....they arent abused....so I now have my WC T5, I have my aerostar bellhousing, I just got a 1/2" aluminum plate thats 12"x12" which will become my adapter plate....next up to get the engine and tranny working together is just a short final list...I need a 289 pilot bushing(which will be turned down to fit inside the SHO crank) I need a SHO flywheel....a 2.8L mustang II clutch disk, and a SHO throw out bearing...in other words...all little stuff...I'm on the home stretch it frankensteining the drivetrain together
in other news I also picked up some 1/4" aluminum plate that I will cut throttle body flanges for the Nissan 300zx TBs from...I have also decided that since I cut off the front of the SHO manifold that I will add roughly the same length of aluminum piping back onto it to keep the plenum volume close to the same...this will also alow me to use the 300zx TB linkage and bring the throttle bodies out to the front of the engine
p.s. I'll get some new pictures up by next week
in other news I also picked up some 1/4" aluminum plate that I will cut throttle body flanges for the Nissan 300zx TBs from...I have also decided that since I cut off the front of the SHO manifold that I will add roughly the same length of aluminum piping back onto it to keep the plenum volume close to the same...this will also alow me to use the 300zx TB linkage and bring the throttle bodies out to the front of the engine
p.s. I'll get some new pictures up by next week
ok, now we're talking, heres some progress for you fans(and those who hate the idea as well)
the SHO TOB mounted on the aerostar slave cylinder...currently held on with temporary clips until I make a real collar for it
I cut off the T5 guide tube...not the neatest cut I admit...but the guide tube plate was cracked to begin with...going to have to get a new one, this was more of a practice cut to get an idea of what I need to do on the new one
I had to notch the bellhousing slightly for the guide tube plate bolts
here we have the bellhousing and tranny together..minus the adapter plate(which is being cut at work on tuesday)
an overall view of what the tranny will look like when finished...again minus the adapter plate of 1/2"
a view of the aerostar slave cylinder/SHO TOB assembly from the front
here we have a pilot bushing from a 302(bottom) and a pilot bearing from a 5.0(top) neither of which will fit inside the SHO crank...I'd love to use the bearing but there isnt enough meat to turn it down to fit inside the crank...so the bushing it is...at least until I break the engine down and have the crank machined to accept a bearing instead...anyway this and my hybrid clutch are the only things preventing me from bolting the engine and tranny together(and the adapter plate of course)
the SHO TOB mounted on the aerostar slave cylinder...currently held on with temporary clips until I make a real collar for it
I cut off the T5 guide tube...not the neatest cut I admit...but the guide tube plate was cracked to begin with...going to have to get a new one, this was more of a practice cut to get an idea of what I need to do on the new one
I had to notch the bellhousing slightly for the guide tube plate bolts
here we have the bellhousing and tranny together..minus the adapter plate(which is being cut at work on tuesday)
an overall view of what the tranny will look like when finished...again minus the adapter plate of 1/2"
a view of the aerostar slave cylinder/SHO TOB assembly from the front
here we have a pilot bushing from a 302(bottom) and a pilot bearing from a 5.0(top) neither of which will fit inside the SHO crank...I'd love to use the bearing but there isnt enough meat to turn it down to fit inside the crank...so the bushing it is...at least until I break the engine down and have the crank machined to accept a bearing instead...anyway this and my hybrid clutch are the only things preventing me from bolting the engine and tranny together(and the adapter plate of course)
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Please fix your picture links, I'm interested in seeing your progress. I don't care what anyone says, I think that what you are doing is actually very kewl. I would never do it myself because well... I love V8 motors but I definately admire the engeneering aspect and orginality of the project. Plus, its still Ford parts =-)
heh, thats what I get for not checking my post afterward, fixed...I personally love v8s as well, but for this car a v6 will do fine...and I can say it will definately be a one of a kind
68stang351
Founding Member
Thanks for the updates. I was just wondering yesterday how this project was coming along. I will be following it closely.
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Looking at the pics brings something to mind for me. McLeod makes a hydrolic throw out bearing which might make your job easier as I believe it will fit on the T5 front bearing retainer without any issue and it might be easier to deal with that then trying to fab something with a slave cylinder and a TO bearing.
Let me poke around and see if I can find it really fast...
Here is one at summit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...MCL-1364&N=700+400374+314795+115&autoview=sku
Here we go. This might be easier since you wouldn't really need to fabricate anything. If you got one with the right ID for the bearing retainer it would just slide right on there. I know these ain't cheap but its a time vs money vs how good of an engeneer are you kind of thing. I'm not that great of an engeneer but you seem like you have a lot better chance of making something work then I do.
Let me poke around and see if I can find it really fast...
Here is one at summit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...MCL-1364&N=700+400374+314795+115&autoview=sku
Here we go. This might be easier since you wouldn't really need to fabricate anything. If you got one with the right ID for the bearing retainer it would just slide right on there. I know these ain't cheap but its a time vs money vs how good of an engeneer are you kind of thing. I'm not that great of an engeneer but you seem like you have a lot better chance of making something work then I do.
I like that TOB...except for the price...only problem is the aerostar slave/tob assembly is roughly 6" deep...that TOB would never extend far enough to engage the clutch unless it somehow sits on the stock t5 input shaft guide tube...I'd pay the price if I were sure it would work...it would simplify things for me greatly, thanks for the idea rusty...I may use it...but most likely not since I now have the aerostar/sho assembly working except for a collar i need to make
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Since you need a new front bearing retainer as it is, I would recomend steping up to a steel one for some strength especially since it looks like you are going to be removing a lot of material down near the base.
McLeod does make one that is a replacement for the T5. If you needed to you could put a shim or sleeve behind it to move the TO bearing forward to the correct distance to engauge/disengauge the clutch.
I'm interested to see how you end up doing this. Keep us posted !
McLeod does make one that is a replacement for the T5. If you needed to you could put a shim or sleeve behind it to move the TO bearing forward to the correct distance to engauge/disengauge the clutch.
I'm interested to see how you end up doing this. Keep us posted !
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Not sure if this is the best price on one. I need to get one of these myself.
http://www.ddperformance.com/t5_parts__upgrades.htm
http://www.ddperformance.com/t5_parts__upgrades.htm
nice...they have one for the 94-up as well, which is what I need...and since an aluminum one is $30, $50 is a fair asking price if you ask me
3-0-II
Member
well, I ordered a basic engine overhaul kit...everything needed except pistons...not exactly a cheap engine to work on here....the total came to $700...with any luck I wont need new pistons...I'm not worried about strength since the stock bottom end can take 500HP...and I am aiming for 400 from this build...I'm rebuilding for reliability under boost. I am planning on pushing 15psi through the engine from twin turbos...probably some .48/.60 T3s...or possibly a couple 14Bs if I can find them in good condition since I can pick them up cheap...at a conservative estimate of 10HP per lb of boost that should put me right at 370HP...shouldnt be too hard to pick up the rest from there with an x-pipe dual exhaust with 2.25" piping, an under drive pulley, and a good size intercooler with a CO2 sprayer, wish me luck...I hope not to have more than $2500 in the engine
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Why not 2.5" pipe ? 300zx guys run 3" pipe when they hit around 450+ HP and mostly run 2.5" before that.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
I'm with rusty; just go with 2.5" exhaust from the start. Even dual 3" will be good if you can fit it under the car. Turbos hate backpressure and power picks up pretty well the more you reduce post-turbine restrictions. Also, an x-pipe will only help the exhaust note and not power(on a turbo engine, anyway). I'd say it's merely optional. Also, don't bother with blowing CO2 on the intercooler. Alcohol/water injection would be money better spent IMO......if you even need the extra cooling.
Very cool project. I always thought it would be cool to put an SHO 3.0L in a Pinto. I've never seen anything like that, but I did find a pic of a Merkur XR4Ti with one. Actually, I'm surprised no one has put a 2.3T in an older Mustang....
well, in general 3" piping is good to about 450HP...thats single piping...dual 2.25" is the equivalent of 4" piping...each pipe is only handling 3 cylinders after all...no reason to bigger than I need, its just added weight, I can always upgrade later if need be...as for water injection...I'm an experienced turbocharging person by this point and I agree with corky bell...there is no use for it in a well designed turbo system...I rebuilt an engine for a friend of mine because his water injection failed and he bent a rod...it was s-shaped when I pulled it out, I wont use water injection, alcohol injection is the way to go if you need to do that...but this car will already be running on ethanol from the start(same cost as gas here) for the 100 octane rating(plus I can always use gas if I cant find ethanol)...I already have a stand alone computer and its simple to switch between fuel maps and injector pulsewidths for the different fuels
in other news, I am trying to figure out a answer to my shock tower woes...my mustang is a '66...the SHO engine width is 22" from the edge of one valvecover to the edge of the other...which will fit between them...but the exhaust manifolds make the total width 23.5" which unfortunately will be located right at the worst spot...about an inch lower than the UCA bolts...this is an issue since I'll be doing the shelby drop later on....now the drivers side manifold I am not much worried about since the SHO v6 has its cylinder banks offset and the drivers side bank is far enough back that it shouldnt interefere with the shock tower....but the passenger side bank might be a bit trickier...I'll either have to A. do some imaginitve notching. B. Somehow make an exhaust manifold with a lot of tricky bends for the #1 cylinder primary or C. cut the firewall and move the engine further back or D. some combination of the above
in other news, I am trying to figure out a answer to my shock tower woes...my mustang is a '66...the SHO engine width is 22" from the edge of one valvecover to the edge of the other...which will fit between them...but the exhaust manifolds make the total width 23.5" which unfortunately will be located right at the worst spot...about an inch lower than the UCA bolts...this is an issue since I'll be doing the shelby drop later on....now the drivers side manifold I am not much worried about since the SHO v6 has its cylinder banks offset and the drivers side bank is far enough back that it shouldnt interefere with the shock tower....but the passenger side bank might be a bit trickier...I'll either have to A. do some imaginitve notching. B. Somehow make an exhaust manifold with a lot of tricky bends for the #1 cylinder primary or C. cut the firewall and move the engine further back or D. some combination of the above
well, more progress for those interested...I got my adapter plate cut at work yesterday(god I love the waterjet!) and did some drilling and countersinking today...
here is the adapter plate bolted to the bellhousing and held with 1 bolt to the tranny...a mock up
and here we have the engine/tranny assembly together....I still have some minor work to do to the adapter plate but the tranny shifts as it sits now(I have to slot the adapter plate holes so the input shaft will correctly line up with my yet-to-be-made pilot bushing and countersink 2 of the holes so I can get the rest of the tranny bolts in)
here is the adapter plate bolted to the bellhousing and held with 1 bolt to the tranny...a mock up
and here we have the engine/tranny assembly together....I still have some minor work to do to the adapter plate but the tranny shifts as it sits now(I have to slot the adapter plate holes so the input shaft will correctly line up with my yet-to-be-made pilot bushing and countersink 2 of the holes so I can get the rest of the tranny bolts in)
finally my engine is test fit...ignore my multi-colored manifold...been playing with paint
my biggest issue right now....the exhaust manifold(passenger side) will interfere with the shock tower frame rail
another view from the front
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