somebody help!!!

[89drop]

Ok, heres the deal...
I have an 89 GT vert, this thing is pretty slow in my opinion, then again i also ride a ninja most of the time (cheep gas) i dont really know much about these cars, but have always wanted one...finaly got it! YAY!!! The motor has been pretty well built from what i was told, and can see. It has 70 mm BBK tb, cold air intake, shorty headers, BBK off road H pipe, 40 series flowmasters, almost everything that has anything to do with polution control is gone, only pullys on the car is water pump, alternator, and power steering... also should add that there is a slight exhaust leak at one of the collectors at the header. I also have an issue with my insturment cluster when i turn my lights on... everything turns retarted! please help me if you can... oh, its also AOD and i know thats an issue with being slow. thanks everyone!

 

[jrichker]

Dumping The computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[Celeb]

I also have an issue with my insturment cluster when i turn my lights on... everything turns retarted!

what do you mean...what does it do?

 

[2000xp8]

The dash lights problem may be related to the headlight switch.
People put those super white bulbs in which are higher wattage and it turns the headlight switch into crispy plastic.
Another lesson i learned the hard way.

Get the header leak fixed.
If it's leaking at the collector, make sure it's not leaking in the collector.
Meaning, i had a set of crappy mac shorty's and it leaked inside where all the pipes met. Only way to tell was taking it completely off and looking through it in the sunlight.

If the list of mods is all of them, your engine really isn't built at all, just has all the basics. Probably about 25rwhp worth.
Nothing that does all that much to help motivate an automatic vert.

 

[89drop]

tach sits on zero, temp goes all the way up, spedo doesnt work properly...

 

[jgrono]

You can also use an analog multimeter and count the sweeps of the needle. You can still find an analog multimeter at radioshack for under $15. There's 3 sec delay between successive codes. If you post your results on here (like a code 67) somebody else or I can post what they mean. I think they might also be in a chiltons or on the www somewhere.

Personally, I've read the codes and they haven't ever really helped me. I like the take it apart and test and see method - but then again my car is more than half taken apart right now...