sorry another thread, but i ordered two 12" type r's today

Discussion in 'Mustang Sound & Shine All' started by zeusmoto, Jun 22, 2004.

  1. hey, me and my brother and his friend set up my brothers subs, it took us all day, but his friend had only done like 2 systems and we havent done any, from what i know, your setup of amps and subs should be good, my bro got 2 12' mtx thrunder4500 a california 600watt amp, the place you buy it from should be able to tell you what wires you need and usually they sell kits of all the wires you need, thats what my bro got, but make sure you have some speaker wire around or buy some good thick kind, if you buy a kit, it should give u the things you need to set up the power to the amps and everything, and also make sure u have a crimper it helps alot
  2. 12 guage wire to the subs
  3. alright thank you, and what about to my 6 x9's and 5 1/4. also how would you mount 5/14 in a door that previously hasnt ever had them or room for them?
  4. screw the door (bad imaging) build pods. 18 gauge is fine for the regular speakers.
  5. Don't worry about imaging, that's obviously built to be a fast, loud car. Put some bad-assed 6.5's in the doors (Kodas, eDi's, CDT, Boston, MBQ's, etc) and juice the hell out of them so they're loud enough to hear over the exhaust. Besides, kickpanels get in the way if you're over 5'7", and you have no place to put your feet.
  6. will 6.5s fit in my door?
  7. They should have a factory spot.
  8. in case you havent seen my other posts there isnt and never was a factory spot for speakers in my door... rare yes i know but its the nature of the beast, i will learn to deal, i was going to use a sawzall to cut through my door and make room for a 5.25 i just need to know about how to do it... we will see......
  9. The hole should already be in the sheetmetal behind the door panel. Just make sure the 2 line up. Ithink that your panel is carpeted in that area, and the carpet is actually over perforated hardboard that forms the panel. Simply mount your speaker behind the panel and use it as a grill.
  10. i dont think there is even a hole for the speaker in the sheet metal i could be wrong but i thought that i checked and saw nothing... well any more tips?
  11. Yeah, cut very carefully! Actually, look for some of the 8" integrally-mounted speakers that are available. If you're cutting holes, may as well get the most you can up front. DEI makes one in their Neo line, and Memphis also makes one. Morel makes an Integra, but good luck finding/affording them. At the least, go with a good 6.5" with a semi shallow mounting depth. While you have your door panels off, mat the entire skin and be sure to cover all the open areas so as to create an enclosure-like mounting. It will give a LOT more midbass that way.
  12. thanks, should i make a template for cutting or how should i go about it. should i use dynamat, and screw the speakers into the door metal. what would be the easiest saw to use... and should i just go 3 ways or components
  13. Components or coaxial- 3ways sound downright awful. I would remove the door panel and install in the metal first. Dynamat (or equivilent) is a good thing. You can cut out the entire door panel if you like, but I suggest just drilling/punching holes in it and use it as a grill (as long as it's carpeted down there). Is it carpeted at the bottom?
    Also, once you get the speakers mounted just using self-drilling/tapping screws, remove them and put speed-clips on the screwholes. It'll keep the screws tight. Most speakers come with this hardware, but if they don't, post back and I'll link you to it. For a saw, man, I HATE cutting sheetmetal. Maybe draw the circle using a template and cut it out by hand with some tinsnips? I used a RotoZip on the last one, but went through 3 bits just cutting a little bit of metal.
  14. damn. yeah its carpeted. are there speaker grills i could buy instead? would a sawzall work? or is it to weak? i defenitely want to do this unless you can think of another area to mount some speakers? what kind of speakers would you suggest... preferably go look at and tell me which would be best?i get a discount at ultimate so that is why i ask you to look there. but if not then just suggest something... thank you for all your help... which is invauluable to me.... or should i just bite the bullet and let some installers do my doors for about 75 either way just let me know... thanks again
  15. like was said before, if i were you i would go with the 2+2's instead of the 4's, i also dont know of your listening habits, so it pretty much depends on your styles and what you want out of the system, if you are making your own box, be sure to use mdf as was stated, and take your time, if you can talk to some installers where you bought the equipment, try to get the correct box measurements the box has alot to do with the sound quality that you will receive, again also depending on what you listen to, be sure to build a box that will give you what you want, also just take your time with it, make sure everything is sealed correctly and def. take your time carpeting if you go that route.. also this isnt somthing you can do in a day if done correctly, so just dont rush the far as where to mount speakers, there should be holes already in the sheet metal behind the door panel, if not thats a little strange, but i had the same problem in my 88, there was a hole in the sheet metal but was just covered with carpet, i just removed the carpet and then cut that out to fit a 6.5 inch speaker, worked well, if not that someone had previously mentioned about going with a kickpanel, if your car is stick, i probly wouldnt suggest it, due to the lack of leg room for your feet, i also however have custom kick panels in my blazer and i absolutely love them, also if i were you i would run 4AWG wire for your amp instead of 8, especially if you are running multiple amps, 12AWG to the subs from the amp, and i always run 16guage to the rest of the speakers.. let us know how it turns out. :nice:
  16. alright thanks... i already got the subs though. how should i cut the sheetmetal? anyways.. thanks again

  17. That 3.5 ohm measurement you are getting is the coil resistance at rest. Impedance will change once the drivers are loaded into a particular alignment. I highly doubt your amp will ever see the nominal 1 ohm it should be if wiring them all in parallel during music. Perhaps with sine waves, but still unlikely.

    Also the 1% distortion, don't read too far into that. Not many if any amps produced today have ANY audible distortion. The human ear can only detect distortion levels of 10% or greater. People like to make big deals out of little specs that manufacturers list that are otherwise useless. Blind test: 3 separate amps, all conditions equal except distortion. 1 at 5%, 1 at 1%, 1 at .5% Listen to them all, I GUARANTEE you will not be able to discern one from another.
  18. thanks kwik i was beggining to get down on my amps.. i heard kenwoods are decent, also... thank you again... you are my hero. well i hope i can install all this stuff by myself...if not ill ask thanks again though
  19. Also, distortion DOES NOT BLOW SPEAKERS! Think about it, if distortion blew speakers, then how the hell could anyone ever listen to Nirvana, any punk band, 60's music, etc. A speaker will produce whatever signal is fed into it until it's physical limits are reached, which can ONLY happen with too much power (unless the speaker is defective). Can a "500 watt" amp blow a 600 watt speaker? For the most part yes. But, that's because a true 500 watt amp should be capable of transients in the range of 1000-2000 watts. If the input is clipped (maximally driven), then it's possible to nuke the driver.