Squeeky Suspension

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by ry94stang50, Jul 28, 2013.

  1. Noticed today that my suspension squeeks like crazy...anybody know what this could be..... bushings? It almost sounds like the coil springs are squeeky so could that mean I need new springs? The rear sounds fine but I'm sure since the car is lowered it was done all at the same time so I would need all four....idk suggestions?
  2. ball joints squeak
  3. Mustangs are known for having outer tie rods squeak. The bushings just need some grease in them.

  4. I really think its the springs or shocks as it sounds like a squeeky bed lol
  5. Check that the spring isolators are under the springs. People lower these cars, but don't replace the isolators. Mine needs them too.
  6. My 95 GT was lowered and didn't have isolators and did not squeak. I did use a rubberized tape and did a small wrap around the bottom but the tape wore off fairly quick and still never had a noise.

    If its noticeable whenever your going down a rough road or even when just getting in and out of the car it could be ball joints or tie rod ends.

    Even if your springs and shocks were worn out they shouldn't squeak like a spring bed unless you have some supporting elements going bad as well. Try spraying a little wd40 in the spring seat and grease up the tie rod end.

    Still squeaks it may be time for some new front end components.
  7. You're right. Everything up there moves. So anything could be squeaking. Grease guns are cheap Or you could take it to Jiffy Lube and get a chassis/suspension lube.
  8. Hey, that's cool. Gonna have to grab me one of those.
  9. +1 Ball joints and Tie Rods. If you've never changed them or its been years in between. You want to definately check there.
  10. How hard is it changing balljoints and tierod ends? I did them in my jeep when I lifted it 6 inches but that's a jeep everythings easy on a jeep lol I want to change/upgrade everything if I can control arms etc. Its going to take somr time but I want everyrhi g on this car redone....what would give me the best results...in other words what should I start with to get her handling even better? I want to stiv k with whatever springs I have for now.
  11. When I had the frontend redone on the 95 it was nite and day. Inner and outer ties and ball joints. Went w moog problem solver balljoints, dunno what problem they solve though. The bj's have to be pressed in. As for tie rods I think it'd be easier to install a new steering rack vs changing the inners. The outers are a piece o cake they just wrench off. Look into some subframe connectors, they're fairly cheap and if have access to a lift and can weld it'd be an improvement with little investment. I don't weld so the labor was higher than the part.
  12. I hqve access to a lift but onpy when his cars aren't on it wich is rarely because he has 5 hotrods and a 790 hp gran turino.....and I can weld what would subtrame connectors do for me? Stiff n up the car?.....
  13. They are all about the same. You do want ones that have cross members to bolt to the seats. They have to be installed on a drive on lift. There is also a potential to light the carpet on fire. You can put ice bags on the carpet in a thick plastic bbag to keep this from happening.

  14. Oh I'm not sure he has a drive on lift or not I'm gonna have to figure that out lol thanks guys I'm new to this forum. :poo: I'm new to mustangs and you guys didn't even hesitate to answer my questions that's awesome over on the chevy board all they did was make fun of people for not knowing how to do this and that I feel like were one big family on these boards and I like it lol......too bad my cars a pile of junk right now it runs and I drive it everyday but damn I'm getting sick of finding something else wrong everytime I get in the thing lol but I'm looking at it this way it would have cost me more money to put every upgrade this car has on it already then to fix a :poo: load of nickle and dime parts
  15. Unfortunately, the cold hard reality is that it's an almost 20 year old car at this point, and things are going to break. We all deal with it here. Half the how to threads are about how to fix up old deteriorating parts.

    You can actually do the subframes on jackstands too. You just have to put the stands under the axle, and under the spring buckets on the front. The problem comes when people do them on two post lifts that pick up the car from the side. The weight off the axle in the back, and the weight of the engine in the front causes the car to sag a little in the middle when you pick it up from the sides. This is true of all unibody cars. If you weld in the subframes when it's picked up like this, then the car is locked in this sagged position and your doors rub when you close them.

    There are a lot of different brands of subframe connectors. As far as strength, they are all about the same. There really isn't any difference between tube steel and box steel either. A better quality manufacturer might have better fitment, and that is a consideration. Some of the people on here are really into body through subframe connectors. Personally, I think they are not worth the labor of installing. However, there are some advantages, mostly ground clearance.

  16. Having a convertible, adding sub-frame connectors is really a mandatory upgrade. Not having a top on your car to hold the chassis together makes the car like a popsicle stick with an engine on one end and an axle at the other. The middle of our cars is held together with stamped sheet metal held together with spot welds. So adding the sub-frame connectors will stiffen this up quite a bit. There is also an issue with our cars that all the aggressive driving stresses the floor at the rear seat mounting bolts. Some sub-frame connectors have a cross bar to tie into these seat bolt locations to stiffen this area up and prevent further damage, as seen here...

    The ones that weld on the bottom of the sub-frames as Kurt stated will lower your ground clearance a tad. The ones that are "Through the Floor" style are a tad stiffer as they basically create a full frame rail through the car's body. But they are more costly to install. The seats, carpet, and interior parts around the floor will need to be removed. Here is the Griggs Racing kit. You can see the two thicker tubes are the tubes that go through the frame rails. There are also bulkhead stiffeners that attach to the front portion of the frame rails to completely tie this kit to the front of the car's frame rails. Notice it also has sub-frame connectors that still mount under the frame rails. So these will still lower your ground clearance. But will be much stiffer.

    There are also options for sub-frames. Like the ones Kenny Brown offers. They can be installed in a modular kind of way or all at once. The Kenny Brown Extreme Matrix kit consists of the sub-frame connectors, jacking rails, and the cross bracing. You can install just the sub-frames, then add the jacking rails and cross bracing later.
  17. [quote="5.0 Ford Guy, post: 8746819, p[/quote] Through the floor type and the "matrix" are over kill for a street car
  18. There is no such thing as overkill for a street car! I know a guy pushing 700 RWHP, full cage, tubbed, big fat @$$ tires on the back, and drives his car all the time.
  19. Well.... Tuche' maybe.. Lemme rephrase then, over kill for a 100k mi 180 rwhp daily driver primary mode of transportation.