Starter Issues - 68 Stang EFI conversion

68StangEFI

New Member
Dec 23, 2018
2
0
1
Mississippi
Hey all!

I’ve read some posts about this issue but not quite like what I’ve encountered. I have a 68’ mustang. EFI conversion with original block and 93 stang motor 302. She has run great but recently she wouldn’t start. Got the solenoid clucking sound so charged battery. Had trouble starting but started up. Took down the road and back to run it some. Let it run to charge battery. Turned off to test battery and all it would do is turn over til I see smoke and heat from hood. I did not do conversion but I have two starter solenoids. They are in series and the first one hat stater hot wire. That wire was so hot it was melting at solenoid and solenoid was super hot as well. The main power from battery also super hot. Replaced solenoid. Started up twice but then all I get is a high whining from the starter not engaging. I charged battery again and still no luck. I hear the solenoid doing it part and even bypassed the first one and then both and got the whine. Also cleaned grounds by engine block. Also took stater and battery to auto parts store. Both tested good. I need some serious guidance. The battery is in the trunk and the wiring is not easy to follow as it was a homemade one by previous owner. Need a way to test of understand hats going on!
Thanks
68StangEFI
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
13,125
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polk county florida
Most trunk mounted batteries are done with inadequate cable size and not good ground locations, there are several companies that make cable kits like american auto wire. I would not mess with wiring of unknown quality/size, the two solenoid deal is a red flag for me. I would get a kit and start over then you know whats been done and it was done correctly.
 

68StangEFI

New Member
Dec 23, 2018
2
0
1
Mississippi
Most trunk mounted batteries are done with inadequate cable size and not good ground locations, there are several companies that make cable kits like american auto wire. I would not mess with wiring of unknown quality/size, the two solenoid deal is a red flag for me. I would get a kit and start over then you know whats been done and it was done correctly.
What other good wiring kits would you recommend? Since it is EFI, will the kits be 100% replacement or would there be a need for more than one for the original wiring? Not very good with ELECTRICAL.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
13,125
4,139
193
polk county florida
There are so many kits out there, when I googled it there was no less than five, summit, jegs, lmr has some and most I looked at were complete, just add a battery and a car to install it in.
stangnet members get a discount from our vendors so visit our vendor forums for links.
 

WORTH

15 Year Member
Nov 18, 2002
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Cape Cod, Ma.
68.69.48.22
Why isn't the battery under the hood where it belongs? Is there room for it now? If there is I would start by moving it back up front and rewiring it back to stock. If there is no room, buy some good 1/0 cable and soldier lugs on it and toss what you have. Oh and run both the "+" and the "-" to the front, don't ground it in the rear, it should go right to the engine block.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
13,125
4,139
193
polk county florida
I do agree with worth, the rear mounted battery is a race car and show car thing, it can and does work on a daily driver if done correctly but properly placed grounds and wire type/size is very important, if you can place it back to the factory location do it. The few pounds of weight transfer is minimal and of little help on street driven cars.