Startup = Moment of truth = FAIL - 5.0 EFI conversion help

[CochinoFilipino]

Who knows what harness I have but a friend was over and helped me trace a bunch of wires and a lot do not match.

It is just too much to try and mess with; I am going to have to find a harness somewhere. Most I have seen are being sold with a computer for big bucks. Any ideas?

If all your connectors are good, I'd just pull the harness out, bust out the multi-meter and soldering iron and rework it. There's only 60 pins on the ECU connector. It would be time consuming but you'll know what you have when you're done. I'd do a continuity test on each one make sure it's going where it should. If it doesn't cut it,and solder it where it needs to be. I briefly looked the the T-bird diagrams and only noticed pins 8 and 19 being different. I"m really rooting for you over here.

 

[BarnStang]

I agree, I would rework it too. Not worth the extra expense. You should be very close, the problem you have is a pretty straight forward power problem. There are far worse EFI problems that are possible once the car is running. But again, none that can't be solved (99.7% of the time).

The A9P is ok for what you are doing. Lets determine if the ECC power relay is closing when the key is turned on first.

68keblr, thats a great site! I hadn't seen that one before.

 

[68converted]

I agree, I would rework it too. Not worth the extra expense. You should be very close, the problem you have is a pretty straight forward power problem. There are far worse EFI problems that are possible once the car is running. But again, none that can't be solved (99.7% of the time).

The A9P is ok for what you are doing. Lets determine if the ECC power relay is closing when the key is turned on first.

68keblr, thats a great site! I hadn't seen that one before.

Upon key on, there is no power to the Red wires of the ECC relay, only the Yellow. Just discovered that tonight.

 

[BarnStang]

How do you have the connection to the ign switch set up? Seems like you are only missing the 12v from the switch. On the conversions, some people don't like to run the red wire spliced to the switch in a classic cause the ign switches are so old, they run an additional realy, but we never had a problem on the 68 project. We checked several times and the switch nor wires ever got hot. So, let us know how you ran the ign switch connection and trace it from there.

 

[68converted]

How do you have the connection to the ign switch set up? Seems like you are only missing the 12v from the switch. On the conversions, some people don't like to run the red wire spliced to the switch in a classic cause the ign switches are so old, they run an additional realy, but we never had a problem on the 68 project. We checked several times and the switch nor wires ever got hot. So, let us know how you ran the ign switch connection and trace it from there.

I took a night off, to destress (aka fishing) I am heading over to work on it tonight. I will check my ignition connection. I just installed the gauge pod, a couple of weeks ago and I may have broke the connection?? Thanks for the diagram.

All, thanks for the support, I don't know what I would do without you guys!!! :SNSign:

 

[68converted]

I finally figured out that I had the wrong end of the green/red wire from the ignition switch connected to the ECC relay. Dumb, dumb, dumb...

Here is the problem. I now have the fuel pump running, but not for the 5 seconds. Infact it ran for about 15 seconds and then I heard a loud crack like a mini firecracker. It was the fuse link that feeds the ECC yellow power wire. It blew up???

Any ideas?

 

[BarnStang]

If you look at the diagram I posted, can ID the fuse link that blew exactly? Not sure why the Yellow wire from the Solinoid>fuse link>fuse #13/Ign sw fuse link would blow. I

f the pwr relay closed, looking at the diagram, did the fuse link blow in the line from the solinoid>blue wire>fuse link>blackw/org>pwr relay/keep alive memory at the EEC?

If that is the fuse link that blew, then something AFTER the pwr realy is shorted to ground. Process of ellimination.

If the fuse link in te yellow wire blew, geez, it's pulling a bunch of current through the switch, and has to be beteen the switch and the coil on the pwr relay.

Not sure why the pump ran longer than 5 sec. Sounds like it ran till the fuse blew. See, now it's getting interesting and fun!

 

[68converted]

If you look at the diagram I posted, can ID the fuse link that blew exactly? Not sure why the Yellow wire from the Solinoid>fuse link>fuse #13/Ign sw fuse link would blow. I

f the pwr relay closed, looking at the diagram, did the fuse link blow in the line from the solinoid>blue wire>fuse link>blackw/org>pwr relay/keep alive memory at the EEC?

If that is the fuse link that blew, then something AFTER the pwr realy is shorted to ground. Process of ellimination.

If the fuse link in te yellow wire blew, geez, it's pulling a bunch of current through the switch, and has to be beteen the switch and the coil on the pwr relay.

Not sure why the pump ran longer than 5 sec. Sounds like it ran till the fuse blew. See, now it's getting interesting and fun!

I thought a line blew off the fuel pump and could just see the entire garage in flames. The fuse link that blew is the blue one that is right at the solenoid. The only change that I made was to connect the ECC trigger wire to the ignition green/red wire.

 

[BarnStang]

Like I said, something after the pwr relay is shorted to ground it would seem. Look at the diagram and check/isolate each connection after the power relay.
Repair the fusable link. Try to find anything in that line that is shorted wth a meter-continuity, not voltage, first. One of the sensors my have an internal short. If you still can't find anything, you may have to pull all the connections after the pwr relay and see if the fusable link holds. I would try finding the short exhaustivley before I go this route.
You can check each sensor in that line. THere should be some guidance on the veryuseful.com site. I think I would look at the MAF first as a possible culprit for shorting the 12v feed to ground. No particular reason, just a gut feeling.

It's been awhile, so I may have forgotten this, but what do you mean by the EEC trigger wire?

 

[68converted]

?[/QUOTE]
It's been awhile, so I may have forgotten this, but what do you mean by the EEC trigger wire?[/QUOTE]


Oh sorry. I meant ECC. I didn't know the exact name for the wire that switches the relay, to send full 12V power to the sensors and whatnot. It's the Grn/Red wire from the ignition "Run/Acces." when the key is turned before crank. I think in the '68 diagrams it is post "C" on the ignition switch.

I checked all the other fuse links and did not see or feel any hot spots other than the one fuse link.

I will start the process of checking each power run today. I guess it's Fathers Day.

 

[BarnStang]

Oh, I see. You are just refering to the line from the switch to the relay. EEC ECC my typo. Let us know what you find.

 

[68converted]

Hi, I have been laid up sick for the past 4 days so I have not been able to get to the wiring. The short has to be in the new harness, as nothing in the old harness was affected (no blown fuses).

I pulled appart the loom and could not find any other fuse link affected. Not sure if that helps.

I am not quite sure how to start checking to see what is shorted to ground without power??? I have a really good meter, but the instructions are long gone.

My only change was to the "keyed on" to ECC relay wire which then gave me power to all the red wires from the relay out to the accessories and fuel pump??? I have the TAB/TAD/AC/and Smog stuff eliminated without the elim. kit.

I will start there. I think I will add an inline fuse holder with the old style fuses until I can figure it out. What amp fuse should be used as a temp for the fuse link that blew. It does not say on the side?

 

[BarnStang]

I still don't understand the "change" you made. When the ign switch is turned on, the pwr relay should close and send power to all the red wires. What you're describing seems to me to be normal operation of the circuit. Unless I am missing something. Look at the diagram.
If you have a good meter, it's pretty simple to use. You will need to become very handy with it to work on an EFI car. There should be a switch position on the meter that will give you an audible tone when you touch the test probes together. That is that fastest way to check continuity. Tone=short. No tone=open. You are looking for a a short to ground from the blown fuse link out to where that line runs. Look at the diagram. It shows you what devices that line runs to. Use the diagrams on www.veryuseful.com to determine which pin on the connectors of the devices that 12v comes into the device on. Try not to punch a hole in the insulation of the wire. This makes troubleshooting harder, but the computer controlled cars should not have holes punched through the insulation because even minor corrosion will affect the system, because the voltage levels/signal levels are so low. Any resistance caused by corrsion will cause gremlins in the harness that you will never find. If you do punture the insulation to test a line, it's ok, just make sure you smear a small dot of RTV on the hole to seal it. Tape will not cut it. If it were me, I would strip the insulation from the fusable link where it blew, and clip one meter lead there, and the other to ground. You should have a constant tone assuming a short to ground on that line. And start pulling connectors off the devices in that line until the tone stopped. Thats the culprit. BUT BUT BUT! Once you fix that, make sure you keep going. Make sure there are no other devices shorted to ground. Meaning, leave the meter in place and make sure that was the one that is causing it, cause there may be more than one problem. Go forth and troubleshoot.

 

[68converted]

I still don't understand the "chang" you made. WHen the ign switch is turned on, the pwr relay should close and send power to all the red wires. WHat you're describing seems to me to be normal operation of the circuit. Unless I am missing something. Look at the diagram...

Sorry about that, I had the wrong end of the wire connected, (old harness - I should have spliced into... instead, I had spliced into the end that was cut off/dead; I was being lazy and did not pull apart the '68's loom - it has been stripped out now, no loose dead ends left)

The change was that I connected to the "live" side of the IGN wire- grn/red.

Thanks for the tip on finding the short. I will give it a shot tonight.

 

[68converted]

Wow that took forever!! I found the short. Being color blind sucks. Anyway, short is fixed, and I also learned that I am a complete dumbass. (better to know it than to just walk around oblivious )

Can someone tell me which wires should be connected to which terminal on the fuel pump relay?

I had been working off the A/C Relay (that would be the dumbass part! They told me the harness was from a non A/C car)

Anyway, I have all the "extra wires" (A/C, smog, whatever is not present in my application cleaned out of the harness. Figured it was as good a time as any.

So this is the last thing to do before I fire it up. My brain is fried from tracing wires all over the place. Thanks for the help.

 

[BarnStang]

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6
Scroll down the page. Table below the graphc gives pin numbers as well.

 

[68converted]

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6
Scroll down the page. Table below the graphc gives pin numbers as well.

Wow, I have looked at that page 30 times, and I just never saw that...

That should do it! I will get it started tomorrow.

Thanks for sticking with me on this! :SNSign:

 

[BarnStang]

ummm, did you install the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)in the trans? I'm pretty sure you will need that to pull codes. Unless I am thinking of something else, the EEC will need that input. It occured to me that if you were stripping the harness of unneeded circuits, you may have taken that one out...

 

[68converted]

ummm, did you install the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)in the trans? I'm pretty sure you will need that to pull codes. Unless I am thinking of something else, the EEC will need that input. It occured to me that if you were stripping the harness of unneeded circuits, you may have taken that one out...

I read a few times in a couple of other reads that it was not needed, as I don't have cruise control or A/C. Not true???

The only wires on the trans were the four for the Neutral safety switch? Is there supposed to be others?

 

[BarnStang]

I know we put on on the 68 EFI project car. The explination was that the EEC could not generate an error code table without the VSS input. Meaning, you can't get the EEC to tell you the error codes. I'm not 100% certain that's true. Can anyone else confirm this?