Electrical Stater relay made starter stay on

Creomod

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Sep 14, 2018
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Ok guys I really need some help. I have a 1989 mustang 302 I did a wire tuck/extend harness on the connectors at the mass air flow pass side and drivers side the connecters that go to starter solenoid I also bought a msd distrutor from eBay /msd eBay store that I’ve never used. I was going to turn on car and set total timing but it would just crank no start..... But the starter kept starting for like 30 sec. I was panicking cuz it wouldn’t turn off, I took out key Didn’t know where the hell the wrench was to take battery terminal off.Took it off immediately 30 sec or so. Soo I had a motor craft relay 2 years old. Installed new one today and starter didn’t turn on this time so yes the starter solenoid went bad. But before I attempt to start the car again I’d really like to know what could’ve caused the solonid to stay stuck open /starter running? I don’t want that to happen to me again My car won’t start so if my problem is the distributor bad or coil can the that cause the solonid to stick on/open? Battery charged,it has spark at least at the battery terminals not sure if that’s considered “having spark”?Plus I did relocate that solonid to the inner wheel well outer fender apron. Not sure if that is a good grounding spot read something about it should be mounted to fender apron chassis.Can this cause my starter to stay on but no car on?Coukd it be lots of power going to it at once? I’m using a old style Ford starter new got it yesterday, new 130 amp alternator with 4 g wire by the way at that alternator connection there is a green wire I believe that goes to a fuse link that has nowhere to connect to. Also installed sve electric fansmaybe too many mods at one time and didn’t do one at a time to make sure everything went smoothly but I did follow lmr vids on these upgrades to a tee with exeption of that green wire.I know it’s a lot but please someone help any input is appreciated. I’d also like to add I installed new steering rack and did the u joint upgrade on the steering shaft but the shaft isn’t in the car I know it affects the car from turning on might this have played a factor in my car not starting and messed up the solonid?
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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Well, that's a lot to take in.
Do you know how to do a voltage drop test?
The ford starter solenoid is a pretty stout piece but bad connections, too small a wire/cable can cause over heating of the wires/circuits and fuse (weld) the contacts inside the solenoid and the starter will continue to run.
Did you 'relocate' the battery too?
 

Creomod

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Sep 14, 2018
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Well, that's a lot to take in.
Do you know how to do a voltage drop test?
The ford starter solenoid is a pretty stout piece but bad connections, too small a wire/cable can cause over heating of the wires/circuits and fuse (weld) the contacts inside the solenoid and the starter will continue to run.
Did you 'relocate' the battery too?
Thanks brother for the reply , no battery relocation yet I just added the steering rack thing in my post. The voltage drop test is that the one where I test the coil wires both sides if the positive drops bad coil? Is that the one?I also believe I used same gauge wires to extend each wire if I’m not mistaken
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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One problem at a time,
You need to deal with the cranking problem first.
 

Creomod

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One problem at a time,
You need to deal with the cranking problem first.
Yes agreed. I have looked at the cranking no start list and I have a question. It says “not to jump around steps & that in you must check in order cuz the next step relies on the previous step”so if I have 12 volts in my injector wires does that mean that mean that everything is good to that point and I didn’t haive to check the previous steps? Of course I, not going to do that but it’s kinda conflicting to me at that point.O and it doesn’t have a slow crank it sounds strong and fast that is until I end up killing the battery in a few more days. I took my vacation and have been chasing my tail for a week or so. But yes it’s not slow cranking just doesn’t go vroom :(
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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How long where you cranking the engine trying to get it to start?
If you were cranking on it long enough to cause the solenoid to stick you are cranking too long. If it cranks over good and strong disregard the 'no cranks list and do the 'cranks but no start' checklist and yes it is best to do it per the instructions.
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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Can you take a picture of your solenoid and wiring for us ? Usually, the only thing that would do that is a bad solenoid. They go bad all the time and doesn't mean anything made it do it.

To do a wire tuck no wires need to be lengthened. Do you know which wires you cut to do your tuck ? How many and what colors are the wires ?
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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So anyone knows what could make the solonid make starter open/running?Id like to know before I try cranking it again
The solenoid is “open” when no current goes through the high current terminals. The points are open. When the points are closed, current flows and stuff goes.
Next time, have your wrench handy for the battery terminal. Before you undo the terminal, give the top of the solenoid a tap or two as the points often can be jarred loose.
 
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Creomod

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Sep 14, 2018
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Sorry fellas I have been soo busy trying to go through the crank good no start list getting 11.58volts coil both sides and the red/green wire not 12v so I’m assuming It’s the ignition switch. Already ordered it 10 pin connector and the long thing. Another thing I went through the no gas pressure cuz I had that issue turned out to be fuel pressure regulator buttt I’m not getting any volts on the black pink wire. I am getting flicking and 12 v on the injectors so I gues the ecc relay working but can a faulty ignition switch cause the pink bk wire not to get voltage?
 

Creomod

Active Member
Sep 14, 2018
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San Antonio,Texas
Can you take a picture of your solenoid and wiring for us ? Usually, the only thing that would do that is a bad solenoid. They go bad all the time and doesn't mean anything made it do it.

To do a wire tuck no wires need to be lengthened. Do you know which wires you cut to do your tuck ? How many and what colors are the wires ?
Sorry I also moved the solonid back to the fender apron where it normally goes.
 

Creomod

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Sep 14, 2018
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If I’m getting 12 v on the red injector wire does that mean ecc relay good?But Can it also cause my pink /bk not to have 12 v therefore it would be faulty?
 

Creomod

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Sep 14, 2018
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Did you start the list from the beginning?
Yes I right now I can’t go further till I resolve the no 12v coil and at red green ignition wire.The switch,10 pins and the actuator rod are on their way and they’ll be at my house today. In the mean Time I did look through my fuse links I found 6 I believe 5 by the solonid and the one at the alternator, but is there one right in the corner by the ecc test connected?
 

Creomod

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Sep 14, 2018
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Some other person mentioned that in a thread somewhere that there was a fuse link in the corner driver side,but I was looking at this pic online and I’m thinking’s he was confused. I believe he was looking at the ohm resistor.Is that a fuse link. I’m using this pic as reference.
 

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Creomod

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Sep 14, 2018
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San Antonio,Texas
Ok I changed the ignition switch with wires but I found “Green” inside the green and red wire.I also found some on the green/bk wire. Also I could’ve sworn I had 11.58 and it jumped to 11.65 when I installed new connector and switch. I’m not getting 12 think this could be the issue?I went to junk yard pulled the whole run off another car,I noticed red / bk wire, pink wire and they are fused together with 2 other red/green wires. One went to the fuse box the other not sure where it went it was already cut. I was. Hopeing I could just throw this one in but not sure if anything else is going off the end with the “?”They aren’t in the ignition diagram. It shows the fuse link and the pink wire where they meet but doesn’t show what I have. It was out a 5.0 convertible. Not sure what year it was.I haven’t pulled out the ecc to visually inspect, and to be honest I prefer to pull it and open it then test it by jumping it(cuz I don’t know what I’m doing :) ) All in pink on my list I’ve checked. I didn’t mean to jump around but I wasn’t getting fuel pressure 2 weeks ago found out it was the fuel regulator so that’s why I went through the no fuel pressure area any input would be appreciated!
 

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