Steeda Full length subframe connectors

dbdragracing

Member
Dec 1, 2004
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I'm in the process of fixing my door hinges and I have the interior gutted on my car...so I figured there was no better time than now to install subframe connectors. I was thinking about ordering these for $159 from 5.0 Resto:

Steeda Full length subframe connectors have been improved with a new one-piece reinforced cross brace. Some subframe cross braces have 8 individual gussets which must be carefully positioned and welded on. Still other kits use no reinforcements at all. Steeda cross braces now have reinforcing gussets built-in, for greater strength with less welding.

These true full-length connectors run the entire length of the floor pan for increased chassis rigidity, better handling and improved ride. The beefy 1.25 by 2 inch connectors are perfect for serious cars with high horsepower, sticky tires or competition suspension. They are reinforced at each bend and include Steeda’s exclusive torque box reinforcing plate for a stronger attachment to the rear subframe.
Full-length subframe connectors are available in bare steel or zinc plated finish. The zinc plating can be welded over, and then only the weld joints need to be spray-painted vs. the whole kit needing to be spray-painted.


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Has anyone used these? I like the fact they reinforce your torque boxes and can be purchased with a zinc coating to rid of rust. Let me know what you think. Thanks.
 
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I'm sure they will work just fine.

Subframe connectors are a great investment. Picking a brand is almost a matter of preference.

Just remember when welding them on be sure the car's suspension is sitting as it would on level ground with the full weight of the car on it.
 
Im going to fix my sagging doors before I install the subframe connectors. Before I weld these on using the lift, I'm going to make sure the doors shut smoothly (is that all I need to look for?). Has anyone used the Steeda subframe connectors? Are these adequate torque box reinforcements? Thanks.
 
I think the best was would be to have the weight of the car on the wheels. I have a ditch that I can drive over when I do mine. You could use jack stands on the rear axles, no problem. As far as the front goes, you need to make sure the the susepsion is fully loaded. I think ramps or blocks under the actual tires would be best. That way you have the true susension load. Als, I would think you need the have the car at the same level that it sits on the ground. Some of this is probably not critical, but when i dont know for sure, I dont take a chance.