Stereo Killing Alternator HELP

Discussion in 'Mustang Sound & Shine All' started by 95Vert383AOD, Feb 28, 2009.

  1. You are correct, as long as it stays on there, it is making an electrical connection. However with the vibration from the sound waves coming from the subs, it may fall off. I would recommend slodering, or butt connectors if the soldering isn't practical.:nice:[/QUOTE]

    Ive always been a fan of solider and shrink tubing :nice: When i was 16 i put my first radio in my car using guess what? Yep...and fortunate for me when the wire nut came off it was only a speaker connection. You would be surprised what will loosen when you hit bumps....etc. I drive my mustang hard.
  2. you need to upgrade the grounds at the battery.... also, have a dedicated ground for your amps. never use a bolt that already exists (ei. seat belt bolt, hood latch bolt ect.).
  3. And don't bolt the amp grounds to the same spot.... farthest away possible.
  4. exactly, I put a new bolt in right under the rear latch for each amp...

    What is wrong with my grounds at the battery?
  5. too small... should be the same gauge as your power wire...

  6. Thanks! Are you referring to right here:

  7. WOW you need a ground wire from the battery negative to a clean piece of metal thats the Same size or bigger than that blue wire. Also the negative wires off the Amp should be as big as the positive wire on the amp.

    Are you getting Alternator whine with this setup right now???
  8. my ground off the amps is as big as the power just can't see them in any of the pics...

    no alternator wine...

    what is the issue with a small ground from the battery? what can/will happen?
  9. Well your charging system uses the battery as a buffer. If you start drawing heavy wattage it will work your Alternator more. Also grounding your amps is so that threw the chassis it eventually grounds to the battery. so those little wires coming off the battery are defeating the purpose of you having thick ground wires in the trunk. I have seen many people get the Alt. whine from the factory wires. i think you lucked out because the factore ground would def. give me that whining noise. If your voltage needle moves when the bass hits then a better battery ground may also help stabilize that.

    I suck at explaining these things but i do know ground wires have to be as thick as positive!!! At the battery and Amps.
  10. DC electricity travels in a loop. It is just as important to provide a path back to the battery with a wire capable of carrying the higher current.

  11. Thank you for the info....that makes what should have happened since I am not set up that way? Battery going dead? Alternator?
  12. you aren't seeing the full potential of the amps... less efficient... probably not an audible difference but would help the amps if you upgraded your grounds.
  13. big grounds and id recommend 2 bateries
  14. *2/Batteries[Yes & No]*

    I know this is an *Old Post*/:shrug: but,the Thread Starter would not really need 2/Batteries,unless he wants to listen to the System *With Key-Off*.A *Battery Solenoid or Relay*[Same Thing] should be used to eliminate draining *Both Batteries*.It goes *In Between both the Car Battery [For Normal EveryDay Use] and the Stereo System Battery [For those Key-Off Listening
    Moments/:nice:].It seperates one from the other in the Key-Off [*Accessory* Side of Ignition Switch]from Main Battery.
    When you start the car,It opens up the Relay to let the Alternator charge *Both Batteries*.Your 200/Amp Alternator should be Fine for your Car & Stereo System.As one other Poster said,to do the Power & Ground Upgrades
    under the hood.Do it Once and *Do It Right*/;).MOPO,is to use *All* 1/0 Gauge Flexible Cable for Your:
    1]Alternator to Battery Positive
    2]Battery Ground to Chassis Frame
    3]Engine Ground to Frame
    ********I cannot stress enough to Please:********
    1]*Crimp and/or Solder ALL CONNECTIONS* [With the Proper Tools]
    2]*Use Adhesive Dual Wall Shrink Tubing* over all connections:
    A]Red for Positive B]Black for Negative or Ground
    When you heat that shrink tube,it activates and inner adhesive glue that flows around the connection,and outside the ends of the tubing.Once it cools,you have a waterproof and safe connection.
    *Remember*,that those cables are out in the Elements,and in time,if not properly done can raise hell with:corrosion/water/vibration/etc.
    Use Quality Cable Ties,and route the Cables *Neatly and Safely*.You should [Your Option,of course] also use Wire Loom or Expandable Sleeving to protect the Cables,from abrasion/corners and other things.And it dresses up the Engine Bay,too.
    Another poster said to use the same thickness cables to your amps,as you did under the hood.On some amps,that may be possible,but on other amps,they may not have the terminals to use 1/0 Cable for Power & Ground.
    You can only fit the Cable to the Terminals your Amp provides.
    Sorry for the Long Winded Response,but it's just some things *I do* when Upgrading Cables for an Aftermarket Stereo System in my cars/:).
    It takes *Time & Patience* to do this type of work.*DO NOT RUSH* to get it
    done,'cause,in the long run,it sukks to take short cuts/:notnice:....Take Care.
    Best Regards/
    PS:Again,Just trying to help,for Future Reference/:nice: