Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

a91what

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Thanks noobs!..

@hoopty5.0, I noticed that you like to set your timing down to 10*. Try 14-16* at idle range and let it auto tune for a bit. When it idles rough typically that means your too lean, less timing will richen it up, but won't allow you to use other functions like adaptive idle.
This happens because your timing offset is set at 10*(the same as mechanical timing). What this means is that 10* is the lowest that your timing can be retarded too. So if you are already idling at 10* of timing the ecu can't pull out anymore to help stabilize the idle.

I hope that made sense....
 
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hoopty5.0

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Thanks noobs!..

@hoopty5.0, I noticed that you like to set your timing down to 10*. Try 14-16* at idle range and let it auto tune for a bit. When it idles rough typically that means your too lean, less timing will richen it up, but won't allow you to use other functions like adaptive idle.
This happens because your timing offset is set at 10*(the same as mechanical timing). What this means is that 10* is the lowest that your timing can be retarded too. So if you are already idling at 10* of timing the ecu can't pull out anymore to help stabilize the idle.

I hope that made sense....
It does. I will see if I can get it fixed tonight
 

a91what

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Well shizzz you ever get the feeling that you should have left well enough alone? as I was rebuilding my tune for a more "smooth" ignition and ve table without thinking I hit the save button..... :fuss:now I get the pleasure of starting my fine tuning all over again. YAY. [ this is completely my fault I know better ]
on the upside this tune has more snap to it and its WAY more aggressive.

The worst part about this is I get to fight the venerable E303 cam idle again. lol

here it is along with a short datalog from todays trip to get a powerball ticket.
 

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a91what

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I thought it comes assembled and ready to go. I thought the "PNP" stood for plug-n-play. Did you add something to it?
The mspnp is ready to go. For 800-900$or so..
we both built the DIYPNP it comes as bags of parts and you assemble motherboard, the breakout board and decide what options you want as you build it. Also half the price
 
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a91what

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ok so after about 20min tuning drivability she is ready for any long trips I want, in boost she is still fat but WOT pulls in 4th gear are out of the question on the street I don't want to get anybody hurt.:nono:

I taught myself some more in the idle function section of the software. Now I think I can tune a warmup valve [that's you Mike] I practiced on my car and tuned all the tables so I can use it if I want. The closed loop idle functions seem too make more sense to me as well. The car has never idled better, it does take patience but once you understand the method it will only take about 30mins to get the closed loop idle tuned.

Oh I [finally] realized how to get the wideband to behave correctly, [not oscillate] while driving... change the mode from simple to PID set the values too P=100 I=30 D=0. this may need further tuning depending on brand I use a MTXL.

I like this stuff, if I ever need a career change I know what I'm going to do.:)
 
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hoopty5.0

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So I got frustrated today and went back to square one - the base tune provided by DIYAutotune. Hundreds of people have successfully used it, so why can't I?

I spent a few minutes running through the settings and calibrating everything, turned the key and it fired right up and idled clean. Revved it and it revved clean. Decided to go for a drive, and still, everything over 1800 rpms pegs the wideband lean, as seen in the datalog I attached.

Anyone interested can download the megalogviewer free here: MegaLogViewer - Datalogs Simplified | tunerstudio.com

Tomorrow, I think I am going to plug the A9L back in and see what happens on the wideband. Maybe it's a mechanical issue that I am not aware of.
 

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a91what

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@hoopty5.0 I noticed that your tps reads a -10% at idle did you go thru the base settings and get them all current before you started tuning??????
also your wideband is showing strange readings at a constant rpm value it appears that you just keep getting leaner.. this is inconsistent and will net bad results...

I need to know a few things.
what brand wideband is it if you have an LC1 or lc2 they have voltage curves that must be programmed before the analog out is usable by the ms.
you need to check that all your sensor values have been calibrated in the system
we really need to be sure that your ignition system is working correctly.... ie the offsets are set right.. I will dive thru your tune file and see if anything is amiss.
 

hoopty5.0

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@hoopty5.0 I noticed that your tps reads a -10% at idle did you go thru the base settings and get them all current before you started tuning??????
also your wideband is showing strange readings at a constant rpm value it appears that you just keep getting leaner.. this is inconsistent and will net bad results...

I need to know a few things.
what brand wideband is it if you have an LC1 or lc2 they have voltage curves that must be programmed before the analog out is usable by the ms.
you need to check that all your sensor values have been calibrated in the system
we really need to be sure that your ignition system is working correctly.... ie the offsets are set right.. I will dive thru your tune file and see if anything is amiss.
I'll call you tomorrow if that's ok and we can go through it. I have an LC-1 and I suspect something isn't right with it.
 

a91what

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after a quick look at your tune file posted a few thing jump out at me.
-the ego setting was set to narrowband, this will cause the auto tune function to look for a 14afr no matter what the afr table references.
-your timing offset was set to 14 deg. no Bueno if your at 10* base.... use the trigger wizard to force timing, check with a timing light if they do not match then adjust the trigger wizard until they do, takes 5 mins.

remember the software will NOT change the tune if the WB is out of range "pegged".... most of your tune shows pegged lean so this portion is ignored. you will have too manually go in to the ve table and change the values yourself....
IF you have a AFR of 22.3 but want 13AFR
22.3/13= 1.71
multiply the ve area in the tune at the rpm/kpa value in question by 1.7

it looks as though we will need to go thru and manually adjust most of your ve table... but before we do that lets make sure that our WB is calibrated in Tuner Studio correctly.
-first go down the list in the TOOL BAR section
-do this twice just to double check that all your sensors are calibrated correctly.
-do it again
-once you get to the Calibrate AFR section you will need the voltage curve of whatever brand wideband you are using.
-under the FUEL SETTINGS menu set the EGO control to single WB, down near the bottom of the EGO menu set the WB to PID p=100 I=30 d=0
start the car and get it up to operating temp, The display on your WB should show the same AFR as the gauge cluster on Tuner Studio. If they do not jive something is amiss and you will have to investigate further.
 
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hoopty5.0

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@hoopty5.0 I noticed that your tps reads a -10% at idle did you go thru the base settings and get them all current before you started tuning??????
also your wideband is showing strange readings at a constant rpm value it appears that you just keep getting leaner.. this is inconsistent and will net bad results...

I need to know a few things.
what brand wideband is it if you have an LC1 or lc2 they have voltage curves that must be programmed before the analog out is usable by the ms.
you need to check that all your sensor values have been calibrated in the system
we really need to be sure that your ignition system is working correctly.... ie the offsets are set right.. I will dive thru your tune file and see if anything is amiss.
And as far as the offsets, maybe something there. I have the trigger offset at 10 to match the base timing. That may be a bad assumption on my part.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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Here,...let me add this little tip.

Team viewer.

Team viewer is a free software download that will let one computer user interact with the other one remotely. As long as there is a decent wi-fi connection, Steve could in actuality look at the running version of Tunerstudio, and literally make the changes in real time just like he was sitting in your garage doing it.

@a91what ,@hoopty5.0 , How's that for a tip?
 
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hoopty5.0

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Not a bad idea. We did figure out last night my wideband settings are wrong and I'm probably using the wrong signal wire from the WB too. Going out to start messing with it for a bit
 

Boosted92LX

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I would like to thank @hoopty5.0 for this thread and @a91what for all the input. Great stuff. That ve adjustment is golden. Keep it coming! :)
 
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hoopty5.0

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Car still runs like crap but making headway. Something is way amiss in the timing department. I set the timing to 'fixed' and set it to 10 deg in tunerstdio. I then put the timing light on it and it's off the timing marks it's so advanced.

I also figured out I have an MTX-L wideband and not an LC-1. Since there is not a setting for it, I used the custom setting and entered the voltages given in the wideband instructions. This finally got the AFR reading in TS to match the reading on the gauge.
 
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hoopty5.0

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Well, I feel like a complete doofus. I guess I skipped a step in the manual in the setting up your base timing section. I set the base timing at 10 deg. with the A9L like you are supposed to. I assumed that MS would take it from there, but that's a very WRONG assumption. You then must install the MS, and check the timing with it running. Theoretically, it should be at 10 degrees. If it's not (like mine) you have to play with the trigger angle/offset until MS reads 10 degrees as well.

DERP.

:bang:

@a91what - I think that once I get this figured out, I can actually let the program do the tuning. Probably a good idea too, because I am my own worst enemy here...
 
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CarMichael Angelo

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Well, I feel like a complete doofus. I guess I skipped a step in the manual in the setting up your base timing section. I set the base timing at 10 deg. with the A9L like you are supposed to. I assumed that MS would take it from there, but that's a very WRONG assumption. You then must install the MS, and check the timing with it running. Theoretically, it should be at 10 degrees. If it's not (like mine) you have to play with the trigger angle/offset until MS reads 10 degrees as well.

DERP.

:bang:

@a91what - I think that once I get this figured out, I can actually let the program do the tuning. Probably a good idea too, because I am my own worst enemy here...
I think I recall saying something about that earlier,.....on the other thread:scratch: