Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

a91what

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Apr 6, 2011
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You have a good start, at idle it's best to create a timing ramp in the ign table or to use idle correction advance (found in the idle drop down at the bottom)
If you post your tune I can modify it so you have a working example.
As for idle timing every engine is a bit different but 14 to 24 degrees are usually where most engines end up
 
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clutch47

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Jan 27, 2020
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You have a good start, at idle it's best to create a timing ramp in the ign table or to use idle correction advance (found in the idle drop down at the bottom)
If you post your tune I can modify it so you have a working example.
As for idle timing every engine is a bit different but 14 to 24 degrees are usually where most engines end up
Thanks. I'll post it after I get done with my session. I'm going to look deeper into VE and how corresponding cells affect it.
 

Tufgriz

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Sep 23, 2019
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so, i hope this will fit in here. My 89 gt is running an efi source microsquirt with there plug and play harness. My son "had" an 89 lx with a turbo coupe swap that we put a pimpx in. My question is, if I wanted to run the pimpx on my gt with batch fire is it possible? reading over at stinger they say it wont work that I need to send it in for conversion to the pimpxs for conversion to "work" with the sequential injection. Im thinking about doing so later on down the road but in theory it should work with batch fire on my gt still correct?
 

67Fairlane

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Jul 19, 2022
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241585.jpg

Hi. Im new here and new to the Megasquirt scenes..​


I have a 67 Fairlane with a Painless harness, N/A 88 Mustang 302 bored to 306 11.5:1 compression cometic .027 headgaskets .. AFR 185 heads, comp cam xe282hr, Trick Flow upper and lower R intake, 34 lbs Ford / Bosch injectors. I had been running a A9L pcm for a few years car ran great except had a bad rolling idle and would stall at the worst time also idle would roll and stall when the electric cooling fan would kick on, I had been running a Granneteli 75mm Mass Air flow meter, I corrected the air filter to block any turbulent air, and installed the IAC spacer plate with set screws.. took care of some of the rolling idle... The problem I'm having is I just installed a Megasquirt 2 to try to help with rolling idle/stalling.. and I'm lost.. I installed a Innovate AFR gauge and I just can't get the VE table AFR table or timing tables correct at all, idle is up around 1500 rpm, and sometimes it flares up to 2000.. not going to lie I've even been trying other people's Maps and I'm just confusing and lost..
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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#1 has the alternator been updated?
Even the stock 87-93 alternator was barely able to keep up now you've added more electronics to it. Given your statement about surging idle and stall when the fan kicks on.
just say'n :shrug:
 

nickyb

WAIT,you now have a pair?
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Apr 3, 2009
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Shout out to Steve.
thank you for your knowledge, guidance, and stangnet discount.
I'll be reaching out to you again,as soon as the wideband and mspnp come in.
thanks again.
 
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ATB

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Nov 6, 2022
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Hi everyone, been lurking on here for some time, and have read all this thread as there's a lot of information that can apply to other Megasquirt/microsquirt applications other than Mustang. While I'm not a necessarily a Mustang guy my latest build does involve a Mustang drivetrain. Years ago I had purchased a totaled1989 Mustang GT for another project. I pulled the drivetrain for the project, but things changed and I sold that one, but the engine and transmission languished in the corner of the shop for years. So I'd wanted an MGB V8 ever since the first one I saw probably in 1980 or so. So I finally decided to build one. The end game will be fuel injection and distributorless ignition. But in an effort to contain costs on the project and hopefully get it running a little sooner I decided to use a Holley carb that I had on the shelf along with an intake I picked up cheap. For ignition I decided to use the stock TFI distributor, since I already had it, and install a Microsquirt to control the advance curve along with electric fan programing and such, and it would be in place for the FI conversion at a later date. So I got the engine running a week ago, but it not very well at first, and here on Stangnet I found a setting that was recommended that was different from what the Microsquirt documentation recommends. I made the change and the car runs good now, pretty sure it was in this thread or one that Steve had responded to, Thanks! But I do still have one problem. When I made up the wiring harness I put in a connector to make it possible to disconnect SPOUT, well, I guess because it seemed like a good idea at the time. Anyway when I go to start the car it won't start with the SPOUT connected, at least not on a cold start and rarely will restart if you stall it. After you warm it up and shut if off with the switch it seems to start OK, at least most of the time. So if I disconnect the SPOUT the engine starts about as fast as any I've seen, well under a second of cranking. Once it starts reconnect the SPOUT and it runs great, timing follows the table and everything is fine. And for the most part it will restart if you shut the engine off with the switch, at least until it's time for another cold start. I can't help but think this is something simple, but I have searched the web for an answer and can't seem to find anything. Any thoughts?

And thanks for all the information you've shared, it's greatly appreciated!!

Alan
 

ATB

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Nov 6, 2022
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Sure, the wiring is done according the section for TFI in the microsquirt hardware manual on efisource, page 84, https://www.efisource.com/wp/docs/MicroSquirtHDWManualRS.pdf The module is the grey, push start module. Well, it's the stock one for the '89 and it is grey so I've assumed push start. Base timing is set to 10*. Once I start it and connect the SPOUT it appears that microsquirt controls the timing correctly. If I set to fixed timing the timing light shows what ever I have it fixed to in microsquirt. And if I have it set to follow table it appears to change properly.

1668012259038.png
 

ATB

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Nov 6, 2022
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Hopefully this will work, if it uploads this should be the tune file, not much of any "tune" since it's ignition only, but I think it should have all the settings.
 

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ATB

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Nov 6, 2022
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OK, as an update and for some kind of closure on this. I'm pretty sure this problem is of my own making and the resolution by unplugging the SPOUT was just hiding the issue which was a time out thing. I wasn't able to do any testing involving cranking / running as I had an issue with an oil line fitting and was awaiting a replacement. It came today so I was able to spend a little more time on it. So I did some more looking and it appears I wasn't getting any tach signal back during cranking, but I did once it started. I had checked all the ignition wiring several times and started to look through the wiring for the microsquirt and my relay panel. I added a relay for the ignition as I don't really like too many things on a single relay, and I picked up the feed for the ignition relay off of the fuel pump output, my thinking it wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing if the ignition dropped out after a period of inactivity, such as key on engine off. Anyway reviewing the microsquirt diagram it specifically states to run it off the main relay. Even had an underscore of main. So I think as long as the engine started within the time the fuel pump relay was on for the prime it was OK. But if it cranked longer than that the ignition dropped out as well. So I'm thinking as much as I hate to admit to making a "rookie" mistake I think that's what I've done. But that does lead me to another question. Will the lack of tach feedback during cranking be an issue when I do finally go to fuel injection? The injectors are running off the main relay as well, so they will be able to inject fuel, but only as long as the pressure holds out in the system; probably enough fuel, but i guess I'm still wondering if it might be an issue later.

Thanks for the help, the information you supply here is pretty much priceless! And I hope you didn't waste too much time thinking about this one.

Alan
 

a91what

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Apr 6, 2011
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Yes it will.

do you have 12v on pin4 during cranking? this is important that you dont lose the 12v on pin 5 during cranking as well. no voltage on pin 4 or 5 means the pip is not powered and thus no rpm signal.
 

ATB

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Nov 6, 2022
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I checked with an ohm meter and there's continuity between pin 3 and coil +, and since it does start I'd think it's not dropping out during cranking, pretty sure I checked it when I wired everything but I'll double check it. And I verified continuity between pin 3 and 5, it reads the resistance of the resistor in the harness, I think it was something like 962 ohms. And I have a crank signal to pin 4, I verified that today.