Drivetrain Stiff Clutch Cable???????????????????????

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by notch351, Mar 23, 2012.

  1. ok guys i have a 1994 cobra. my problem is that the clutch pedal is stiff for a while when i first start driving, then it will loosen up after a while. i tried a different cable and so on. to make things short i just replaced the clutch,cable installed adj quaderant and fender well adjuster, pilot bearing and clutch release bearing and i still have the same issue. my pedal seems to move free when not hooked to the cable. so at this point i am lost. the only thing i could think of was maybe the firmness comes from the heavy duty clutch fork with like the weight or something on it. not sure I would love any help . my leg is getting to much of a work out. oh yeah it take about 20min of driving before it loosens up
  2. The clutch fork shouldn't make any difference. Check to see if you have the cable routed correctly. Most likely it's the pressure plate that is tired. It might be binding up a little when it's cold, and then when it gets hot and expands it doesn't bind up at all.

  3. Which clutch cable are you running? I switched to an aftermarket clutch cable and it got so tight it left me stranded. I put the stock cable back in and all was well again. After 17 years its still going.
  4. well like i said i tried a new factory cable before the clutch swap and it didnt change anything. so then i put the old stock one back in. then i just recently switched the hole set up new clutch, pressure plate and a upr adj quadrant fender well and adj cable. cable is routed right as it was originally well i believe so anyway [ just under and around the motor mount]. new pilot bearing and throw out bearing. so that is why i am so confused. as for the fork what is the point of the weighted end never seen that on any of my gts. and just for the record the t.b. slides freely on the sleeve. this is worse than an electrical issue LOL
  5. Can you take a picture of the routing? That's the only thing I can think of.

  6. yeah ill take a couple pics later. not to sure how to load them up here so we'll see what happens should be able to figure it out
  7. heres a pic hope it loads[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
  8. so what do you think. does the cable appear to be ran right? hope the pics help.
  9. No, it doesn't look right. It should be loose in there, not tight against everything in there. It looks like the cable is too short. It shouldn't be snug against the front of the motor mount like that. I lost my entire hard drive when I reloaded my computer, so I don't have any pics right now.

  10. ok maybe i'll try putting my original one in to look at it. not sure if it was like that before or not. also not sure if i can install a non adjustable cable with the fender adjustor or not. or at leas ti can take the cable off and compare the cable length to the original. thanks
  11. I'll snap a few pics today for you.

    Kurt that sucks about your Hard Drive
  12. Yes, you can use the firewall adjuster with the stock cable, you just have to remove a few parts of it. I've been seeing a lot of cable irregularties lately. There must be 3 different Chinese guys all making them differently now.

    Yes, losing all your data seriously sucks.

  13. yeah probably. wish ford would have kept making them, i guess the mustang wasn't popular enough. Ha Ha. the kit i bought was from upr. also why would it ease up after driving for a while? just heat expansion i guess.
  14. you can definitely tell the lack of consistency on these cables. i noticed that even the L type bracket that holds the cable in place is shorter than the other holding it further off to the side
  15. I had the same problem, with the same set up as you (UPR 3 hook quadrant, adjustable cable & firewall adjuster.) First, as stated above, get your route right, keeping the cable as straight as possible. I suggest using the 1st hook (closest to the firewall) on the quadrant. You'll have plenty of room for adjutment in the firewall adjuster to make the cable tighter on this hook but you won't have as much room to loosen it if you use one of the other 2 hooks.

    Most importantly though, once you've done all that, loosen the cable on the fork, disconnect the cable from the quadrant and pull it all the way through the firewall. Get yourself some oil (I used some gear oil I had on the shelf, as the bottle has a nice little tip on it but you can use motor oil if you like) and while holding the pedal end of the cable up, with the cable as far out of the sleeve as it will go, poor some oil down into the sleeve and work it in there real good by pulling the cable in and out. Keep doing this untill you feel you've gotten the oil throughout the sleeve or untill you can see it dripping from the other end. You'll actually feel it get smoother as you continue. Button her all up an bingo...good to go.

    Everyone knocks all these aftermarket cables but as an avid motorcycle rider, I know the importance of a properly lubed cable and these things just NEVER come properly lubricated from the factory. My pedal was so stiff, I damn near had to use the steering wheel as a means of leverage to push it all the way down and while using just the aftermarket cable alone, it actually broke the stock quadrant in less than a 2 mile drive. I did as I stated above and it's now smooth as butter. Actually drove the car barefoot the other day.
  16. Thats sound like a good idea. I did switch to my other non adj cable and it did help some being a little longer cable, but it is also new and probably would be better lubed up. thanks. one other thing is there a bearing in the pedal assembly that shaft rotates on that may be binding up under the load of the cable?
  17. All the cables are different, especially the L bracket. So far, the best fitting one I found was the BBK one I bought 12 years ago. Last time I changed the cable, I bought a Steeda cable, but had to reuse the BBK L-bracket, because the Steeda one wouldn't clear the longtubes.

  18. hey thanks for the lube recommendation that did it. all is well. I think these aftermarket cable makers should make that a part of the install procedure to oil the sleave for the cable. i swear nothing is plug and play anymore! anyway thanks again for the tips guys
  19. This is probably why the Ford cables are teflon-lined and require no lubrication maintenance (one actually does not want the dirt the lube attracts).

    That routing doesn't look real desirable IMHO. You want a nice big loop without any kinks or places where the housing catches/chafes (since it moves a little when the cable is tensioned and released).