Still having starter issues

:bang: :bang:

Well i made a thread a while back and a good amount of people tried to help me and i thank you for that. But still cant find the problem =(

Problem: I start my car and the battery is almost or completely dead. My car goes to 2k or so and then a minute it will go down to idle. And on my battery i keep replacing the positive cable connector/cable b/c the connector that goes on the + side of battery terminal will turn burnt and the bolt is becoming corroded(within a week). And also if i turn my fan on (mark 8) my headlights dim a lil bit could this be caused by a small relay (30amp for right now) or does that sound like the alternator. But the alternator will bring the battery level back up pretty quickly.

What i done to try to tackle this problem

-2 different Autozones has checked my alternator/starter/battery and they say its working fine.
-Put a 4gauge ground from frame to bellhousing(friends idea)
-Replaced my choped up wire for the 150amp 3g alternator with a pa performance wire
-replaced battery connectors

i have a 150amp 3g alternator, and the battery is about 6months old advance silver

thanks
 
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A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem. Measure the voltage drop across the various wires & connections in the starter & alternator paths to find any bad connections or wiring.

See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103#volt for how to do it help and lots of neat pictures.

Also see http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/beatbook.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for more information on electrical troubleshootong with a Digital Volt Meter (DVM)
 
thanks

Althoguh i couldn't do too much with my autozone cheap voltmeter but seems to be ok i think.... heres a pic what i was talkin bout


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The style clamps you have are subject to corrosion & high resistance. Replace the entire cable assembly with one that has the clamp soldered on the cable.

As for checking the ground, use the method in my previous post. Be sure that you are running the usual electrical load (fan, A/C, lights, radio, etc) when you do the test.

If the problem is slow cranking, do the test while you are cranking the engine.