still running bad when hot :(

[jimdrechsler]

This is what i posted in an earlier thread... this is lenghty so bare with me:

I had a post on here about th epossibility of getting bad gas in my tank and can't seem to find it. Anyway, when I am driving it hard and get up above 3500 rpm's it will stumble and act like it is starving for fuel, or missing. Today I drove it to the store and drove slow and it drove fine. When I was coming home i decided to get on it hard and it stumbled above 3500. after that, when i would push the gas down, it would do it at all rpm's. this has happened before and i was thinking it was just because it was about 1/8 tank and my gas tank (sock?) was bad. i have a full tank of gas and it is doing it. new plugs and cap last year. im thinking it still has something to do with gettin gthe bottom of the damn gas barrell at sunoco a month or so ago!!! if it is a result of bad gas, what needs to be done? is it something else you think?

NEW INFO IN REPSONSE TO AFOREMENTIONED:

I checked codes and there is nothing/ changed the fuel filter/ changed the tfi module...still happens!

i have noticed that i do not have to "get on it" for this to happen. it happens more when the temp gets to about 200 after sitting in traffic or the car wash, or driving around for a while stop n go. after it gets to this point and i give it gas, it misfires under load only at any rpm. it is not smooth at all when accelerating. i also noticed that after i turned the car off and started it back up it started more slowly like a dead battery almost.

if i did get bad gas like i mentioned a while ago, could the injectors be clogged ONLY when hot? is it the ignition? i will more than likely see if my mechanic can track it down, but the last time he had it it did not run crappy!

 

[bullitstang1313]

More than likely if it is temperature dependant it is an ignition problem. I had a similar issue with mine. It would start to stumble and miss but once it got hot the car would die and wouldn't start back up until it cooled off. Mine turned out to be the PIP sensor in the distributor. It would lose signal when it got hot.

 

[jimdrechsler]

the cap , rotor, and plugs are new as of last year i believe. is there a way to test the distributor, or should i just buy a new one? can i just get any distributor from advance auto, or should it be ordered?

thanks

 

[jrichker]

TFI module and then PIP sensor are suspect. The TFI module can be tested at the auto parts store. However, you'll need a hair dryer to heat it up past 200 degrees to make the test simulate conditions under the hood of your car. TFI cost range from $30-$100.

A remanufactured distributor is between $60-$75 depending on where you shop for auto parts.

 

[jimdrechsler]

the tfi module has been changed. is the pip sensor part of the distributor to where the whole thing would need to be changed, or can the pip sensor just be changed? any pics aand can it be tested first?

thanks again, it is annoying as

 

[jrichker]

The PIP is the sensor is in the bottom of the distributor that triggers the TFI. You have to press the gear off the distributor shaft to get access to it to replace it. Most guys just end up replacing the distributor with a reman unit for about $75 exchange

 

[jimdrechsler]

The PIP is the sensor is in the bottom of the distributor that triggers the TFI. You have to press the gear off the distributor shaft to get access to it to replace it. Most guys just end up replacing the distributor with a reman unit for about $75 exchange

thanks.. im assuming there is not a way to test it. it looks like this would be the next logical relatively inexpensive thing to try with it. thanks again!

 

[HISSIN50]

I'd also add that if you happen to have a spare ignition coil, toss it on there.

 

[jrichker]

thanks.. im assuming there is not a way to test it. it looks like this would be the next logical relatively inexpensive thing to try with it. thanks again!

It is possible to test the PIP, but it requires an oscilloscope or other specialized test equipment that most hobbyist car mechanics don't have.

 

[jimdrechsler]

bringing it back from dead.

I just got the car back from my mechanic and noticed that it is doing it again... only when i drive it on hot days in stopn go traffic for a lenghty period of time. when it is cold and i drive it for 15 minute commute, the power seems fine. here is what was done to the car the past year my mechanic has had it. just copying and pasting what we emailed me the other day...
-Replaced Clutch, Throw out Bearing
-Re-surfaced Flywheel
-New Clutch cable(added Heat Shield off Header to limit heat getting to cable )included Adjustor on Fire Wall.
-New Front Tranny Snout
-New front bearing and front tranny seal
-Rear Main Engine Seal
-Cleaned and Painted Bell Housing/plate
-Changed Tranny fluid
-replaced tranny mount an shimmed
-replace button caps in side shifter, Adjusted Stops
-replace speed density and cable drive housing
-Rear End Input Seal

-Replaced both Upper and Lower Control Arms with Aftermarket Equip. Upper Links Adj. to stock position, Lowers in stock position.
-Added Reinforcing blocks and plates to sub frame/floor for the lower forward mount.
-Replaced Rear Shocks, Left the original horizontal shocks.

-Repaired Drivers side front exhaust Hanger Bracket(welded in bracket)

-Changed Engine Oil/ Filter - Rotella 15-40
-Checked Valve Springs, and spring seat pressure(pretty even at 130 lbs )
-Checked Valve Rocker Arms, cleaned oil drains
-Cleaned Injectors and Rail
-Replaced Fuel Pressure Gage
-Replaced spark plugs (Autolite 24’s)
-Cleaned intake ,upper half, New Gaskets, and valve cover gskt’s
-Re-wired Coil wiring, Timing Tab, coil leads, and all new negative battery terminal ends
-Rear lower vacuum lines on rear port
-Adjusted TPS to .98 volts
-Base Timing at 11 degrees btc.
-Moved Thermostat bulb for Electric Fan to inlet side to see if would getter better heat range Electric fan

-Checked rear brakes and adj.
-Checked front brakes and rotors , looked good.
What I figured up is as follows
New Parts this year(Evened up on parts last year for clutch ,rearend ,suspension..etc.)
(Oil/ filters, Spark Plugs, seal, Wiring connectors, Heat shield , two port vacuum
Fuel cleaner, shop supplies) = 127.00
Labor Total = 325.00
Storage = 50.00
Deduct the Fed Ex rush on gskt - 20.00 ?
482.00 ttl



CAN my fuel pump be bad ONLY when it is hot and causing the loss of power? I am not sure what else it could be. It has no problem starting and does not stall or die ever when this happens too. fuel pressure is at about 38 vacuum line off. it is at 34 w/o vacuum line off.

Any ideas????? it runs strong when it isnt running like crap!!

 

[jimdrechsler]

ttt

 

[jrichker]

Did you ever replace the distributor or PIP sensor inside the distributor?

 

[jimdrechsler]

both distributor and pip sensor are new.

 

[jimdrechsler]

i did bump the fuel pressure up to about 42 vacuum line off to see if it does it when it gets hot again. maybe it was starving for fuel when hot?

 

[jimdrechsler]

could it be the jacobs ignition itself you think? i am at a loss here

 

[ID89GT]

I had this problem kinda... I could drive it, but if you got past a certain RPM it would lose all power and be rough..Replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro 255 and haven't had a problem since.

 

[jimdrechsler]

update

i decided to throw on a 16 dollar ignition coil and have yet to notice the problem. i drove it when it got really hot one time and it did NOT happen. this MAY have solved the problem. fingers are crossed.

another question now. will this cheap ignition coil have any effect of overall power and running of the car? sohuld i buy a better one? the one i had in there was from the jacobs ignition i have.

thanks!

i am also going to change to a 175 t-stat and get a new radiator to help keep the car cooler. it is the stock radiator.

thanks in advanvce to any replies!

 

[HISSIN50]

I'd consider getting an aftermarket coil if your ignition has multiple sparking.

 

[jimdrechsler]

thanks hissin... you were on the money with your post earlier as well. do you think i will notice and perfomance gains by getting a better one?

thanks!

also, does anyone know what the stock part number would be for a 175 t-stat that would fit my car?

 

[HISSIN50]

thanks hissin... you were on the money with your post earlier as well. do you think i will notice and perfomance gains by getting a better one?

thanks!

also, does anyone know what the stock part number would be for a 175 t-stat that would fit my car?

I don't know that you'd notice a performance difference with a performance coil but I think that the way they're wound and their intentions for being used with multiple spark ignitions means they last longer.


A 175*F t-stat is unusual. One way to fudge the rating: balanced stats often start opening about 10*F before their rating, and are often open full-bore at their rating (give or take a couple degrees). So something like a performance 180* stat might get you real close to your desired 175*F rating (that is, if you wanted the stat to be fully open by 175F).
In theory, a non-balanced 175F stat might not fully open till 185-188*. If that's your target temp, a balanced 192/195 stat might be a tad warmer than you desire but in the ballpark.

Good luck Jim.