Stock Motor Mounts, Or Solid/plate.

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So you mean to tell me, that a mad scientist such as yourself is going to simply use factory mounts and chains?
Surely you can come up with something way cooler than that.

Hoohokie Doke.

Motor mounts,..hidden waay below the sight line are on the short list of the I don't give a phuck items that have to get done. I will not absoultely scam out a solution, as I don't want some future failure, but with all of the other things that are just going into the motor that require a "I sure hope this s hit works mentality" I gotta draw a line somewhere.
 
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Late to the party here.... I vote motor plate. You will be making far over 80 HP and stockers are not! up to the task. You will regret the use of stock mounts.... Chains are ghetto and this isn't a "hood" build. If anything use a solid chromoly rod type limiter like the one I have from racecraft.
 
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Late to the party here.... I vote motor plate. You will be making far over 80 HP and stockers are not! up to the task. You will regret the use of stock mounts.... Chains are ghetto and this isn't a "hood" build. If anything use a solid chromoly rod type limiter like the one I have from racecraft.
A plate will be too hard to integrate. And I agree w/ you the chain is an embarrasment.
I have an alt, A/C compressor, and a P/S pump to consider. If anything, I'll have to fab solid mounts.
 
What about using the factory mounts and using a midplate to limit the rotational force trying to utterly inialate the motor mounts.
OWWWWWW!!

The very thought of that made my ass hurt.
I hate mid plates. It's just as easy to make solid mounts and be done.
The factory mounts were just a giant pain in the ass to use anyway. I'll start planning a pair of solid replacements and hope that the F.I , and turbo tame the Roller down to where the harmonics don't drive me bat sh it sitting at a redlight.
 
When you get your video feeds up and running include footage of you posting on stangnet as I can only imagine how animated you are when you're typing this stuff up!
 
I'm nothing like anybody imagines. Much to their dissapointment.

Ehem...


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So...........it has a turbo, boosted cars, especially street driven boosted cars typically do not have lots of overlap. It is the overlap that causes the shake, shake, shake of the engine.
all I know is cam is ground on a 114 ls
and has 236 dur @ .050 int, and 224 @ .050 on ex.
Now granted, that ain't no monster, but in a 250, I think it will still have some poppity poppity going on.
 
The 114LSA is the overlap, 114 is very typical of stock type camshafts. With the duration @ .050 being 236 *, 224* any "poppity pop" will be the most noticeable when the engine is cold. Once it gets fully warmed up, it may have just a hint of a lope at idle, but nothing that is going to rattle the dash or windows.
 
The 114LSA is the overlap, 114 is very typical of stock type camshafts. With the duration @ .050 being 236 *, 224* any "poppity pop" will be the most noticeable when the engine is cold. Once it gets fully warmed up, it may have just a hint of a lope at idle, but nothing that is going to rattle the dash or windows.

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I know dick about cam specs. :nonono:
 
LSA (lobe separation angle) numbers can be interpreted like this: the higher the # the less overlap, the lower the # the more overlap. Overlap is defined as the # of degrees that both the intake and exhaust valves are open. The longer both valves are open at the same time, the more diluted the incoming air/fuel charge is at an idle, thus at an idle it tends to make for a rough "poppity pop". But at high rpm's you need the overlap to help get the cylinder filled. When the exhaust is being pushed out of the cylinder by the piston, if you start to open the intake valve, you can use that velocity to help start to pull in the air/fuel charge. That is a basic description, a whole lot more is going on than just that tho.