Progress Thread Street/strip 427w In A Gt Hatch- Slow Progress

[Davedacarpainter]

sn95 hanger, so the bigger 3/8 feed but still a dinky 1/4" return. the rest of the system is all -8, so if i ever get the itch i can swap in a different tank with a bigger (or multiple) pump.


just a bit. exhaust is on now, just clamped up ran out of mig gas and cant find my flux core tips so that will wait till tomorrow at least.

it is making a hell of a mechanical clack though, i know one rocker trunnion is looser side-to-side than the others, just hoping it something like that and not a rod bearing on a brand new motor (oil pressure is 50psi at idle and never drops, which amazes me since all my 302's have been like 25 or so). it's been making this noise since the first start, way more noticeable now with mufflers.

What alloy are your pistons made out of?

 

[Chuckman]

What alloy are your pistons made out of?

2618

 

[Davedacarpainter]

2618

So the noise shouldn’t be from them during warm up. Hum.....

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

2618 pistons make a noise all their own,..kind of a rock-rock-rock noise at idle.

 

[hoopty5.0]

Have you cut the oil filter open yet?

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

So the noise shouldn’t be from them during warm up. Hum.....

The noise is most noticible during a cold start and during idle. When the pistons are cold.

 

[Chuckman]

Have you cut the oil filter open yet?

not yet, dont even have a dipstick in it yet :eeks: still in the package, almost forgot about it. its only got about 30-40 minutes of actual runtime since i dont want to piss off the neighbors too much (and the head "hoa" people live right next door).

The noise is most noticible during a cold start and during idle. When the pistons are cold.

when i first noticed it, it was after warmup. its started closer and closer to startup ever since, and yesterday it was obnoxious as soon as it lit. oil pressure is still awesome though, which makes me think its valvetrain more than bottom end. or at least, i hope.

this is uncharted territory for me, never had a solid roller before, so dont know what that sounds like first hand (though this noise is defintly only coming from just one cylinder). also never had rod knock or piston slap, so again dont rightly know what those sound like.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

not yet, dont even have a dipstick in it yet :eeks: still in the package, almost forgot about it. its only got about 30-40 minutes of actual runtime since i dont want to piss off the neighbors too much (and the head "hoa" people live right next door).


when i first noticed it, it was after warmup. its started closer and closer to startup ever since, and yesterday it was obnoxious as soon as it lit. oil pressure is still awesome though, which makes me think its valvetrain more than bottom end. or at least, i hope.

this is uncharted territory for me, never had a solid roller before, so dont know what that sounds like first hand (though this noise is defintly only coming from just one cylinder). also never had rod knock or piston slap, so again dont rightly know what those sound like.

Anything isolated to one cylinder would be cause for concern. I would agree that A slapping clatter would be more of a valve train noise than the Pistons rocking. The valve lash is freakin noisy, but consistent , and the Pistons make that repetitive rocking noise. Anything else banging around in there would be cause for investigation.

The solid roller, and the 2618 Pistons in the monster make a clamorous amount of noise that I can only describe as a diesel powered sewing machine in my car..it is enough to make me regret not trying to figure a way to get a hydraulic roller, and swap out the Pistons for 4036 versions. It's something that you'll have to get used to I guess.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

The noise is most noticible during a cold start and during idle. When the pistons are cold.

My mistake, i was getting those confused with 4032 forged pistons. I got it backwards.

Chuck, what mike said then. Until the pistons warm up they'll be slightly looser and rattle. They're stronger than 4032 forgings though.

2618 have less silicon in the mix and expand more. This is taken into the consideration of making them, So they're a hair smaller than the 4032 forgings giving them the room to expand and fill in the cylinders.

 

[Chuckman]

Just pulled the rockers and pushrods off #8 and noise is gone. Trunnion on both rockers has the same amount of side clearance, but the one on the intake once bolted down had way more wiggle than any other. That header primary also seems to be leaking pretty good at the flange, its the one single tube on that side and I already fixed a leak on the other end so I'll pull that tube, relash the rockers and if the noise is still there I'll order a couple lone rockers

 

[Chuckman]

Leaking for sure....also pig rich, but that's a whole other story

 

[Chuckman]

Welp, its for sure just a massive exhaust leak that i cant seem to get rid of. if i unplug the #8 plug wire noise goes away. resealed it and still no bueno (granted the rtv im using only had like 4-6 hours to setup but still). will have to put the thinking cap on for this one.

anyway, while i let that rtv set up, pulled the x, welded it up (had to switch to flux core, which it seems my machine runs better ), made some dumps, and threw it all back in. will get tails eventually if i can find a set of 3" with the gt dumps or find a set of lx ones cheap enough that i dont mind cutting the ends off.

 

[Chuckman]

and a quick vid to prove that yes, it actually does run

 

[Chuckman]

so i got plates for this thing, drove it to work a couple times, then this happened:

thankfully this happened on my way home from work and not TO work. had to limp it home in 2nd, not fun

out of 6 frictions, only the last one has any actual friction material, and thats only on one side.

have a rebuild kit with upgraded clutches (raybestos red) already, but that direct drum looks a bit too heat treated for my liking so going to order a new one. sonnax has an upgraded one that fits more frictions, is billet, and makes it and the stub shaft one piece (as well as a stronger sun gear). about to look up pricing but betting its waaaay out of my range. even the thicker top plate is heated all the way through.

intermediate pack also looks a bit toasty, havent taken apart the forward or reverse packs yet but the drums look fine so far from the outside. the od band looked suprisingly mint though so

 

[RaggedGT]

FWIW-cause I am making no where near the power you are making, so I just ordered stock replacement parts-but I went through a local trans shop to order my drums etc and got them a lot cheaper than what Sonnax had those parts listed for online

 

[Chuckman]

The sonnax stuff is for sure super expensive, their upgraded direct setup is around $600, and the forward is another couple hundred. But it seems that's what you need for 1k+ hp (well that and maybe an upgraded planetary if someone can be persuaded to make them). I'm nowhere near that, so I just grabbed another used stock loaded drum off ebay. If I didn't already have the friction kit, there are modifications to add 1-2 clutches to the factory drums. While I knew the clutch pack was probably toast, I didn't think it would take the non-consumable parts with it.

Also have an oil leak to figure out (hoping it's just a valve cover or needs more etc on the rear China wall and not a rear main issue). Will also need to rebuild my dropped trans mount (seems my little welder doesn't have enough ass for 1/8" hotrolled in actual mig mode) as well as remake an exhaust hanger (mig failure again).

 

[General karthief]

Blame it on the poor welding machine,

 

[hoopty5.0]

The sonnax stuff is for sure super expensive, their upgraded direct setup is around $600, and the forward is another couple hundred. But it seems that's what you need for 1k+ hp (well that and maybe an upgraded planetary if someone can be persuaded to make them). I'm nowhere near that, so I just grabbed another used stock loaded drum off ebay. If I didn't already have the friction kit, there are modifications to add 1-2 clutches to the factory drums. While I knew the clutch pack was probably toast, I didn't think it would take the non-consumable parts with it.

Also have an oil leak to figure out (hoping it's just a valve cover or needs more etc on the rear China wall and not a rear main issue). Will also need to rebuild my dropped trans mount (seems my little welder doesn't have enough ass for 1/8" hotrolled in actual mig mode) as well as remake an exhaust hanger (mig failure again).

How many transmissions have you gone through (ie taken apart and reassembled)? I really want to find a core and take it apart, but after watching a few videos, I can't convince myself to do it. Seeing your pics above made my palms get sweaty.

 

[a91what]

FWIW the 4032 is a "stronger" piston meaning it has more silicon and is physically harder. The 2618 is a softer more maluable material, so if you do get into detonation they will give some and survive.

The 4032 is best suited for a driver car.
The 2618 will at best need a re-ring around 36000 miles due to larger bore tolerances with their expansion rate.

 

[Chuckman]

How many transmissions have you gone through (ie taken apart and reassembled)? I really want to find a core and take it apart, but after watching a few videos, I can't convince myself to do it. Seeing your pics above made my palms get sweaty.

i tore down a t5 before i found out mine was some bastard child and couldnt find a new input shaft, and also rebuilt a tko. this is my first auto, but as far as the drivetrain goes its amazingly simple. the only pita parts are some snap rings that need what the hold in, pressed down so you can get the rings out.

heres a good step-by-step vid series on the 4r, the aod is pretty much the same other than the electronics and some of the upgrades youll want to do (like 4r guts, larger od piston, and the input shaft deal). even has some clever ways to get around the "pressing" issue.

View: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9lVw8TP7bh4_mIyEjmCq5fKrG-tb2Eml


im going a bit tangental in a few places for some upgrades (one extra clutch in direct, forward, and intermediate) but otherwise im following that series exaclty.