Stroker Motor Timing Question

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by k00ksta, Jun 17, 2013.

  1. I got a 331 Stroker motor in my car with TrickFlow twisted wedge Heads and Intake, E303 cam, 75mm TB, MSD 6AL, Autolite 3492 gapped at 0.052-0.054 (ford spec), ect ect .. I got some timing questions ..

    1) Do we need to have the car OFF when pulling the SPOUT out before adding/removing timing.
    2) My car has a lot of hesitation if I am around 10* thru 24*ish pretty un-drivable with SPOUT out but at 30-32* she run's very good!
    3) If I set it at 32* because I have aluminum trick flow heads when I pop the SPOUT back in should it drop back down to 10* as with SPOUT out is that setting the total desired base timing?
    4) Any of you guys just running motors/setups like this with the SPOUT out successfully. (Locked out Timing I think you call it)

    My car really need's a tune which I am working on now going with an Anderson PMS or QuarterHorse which I am sure I could do all of this right then and there in the tune.

    Just really curious as I thought I was supposed to with SPOUT out set the base timing to 10* but seriously runs like crap yet setting it at 32* runs like a champ.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated guys thanks ..
  2. Also note this is at about 1400-1600 RPM I am at 32* not a 700 RPM idle.
  3. I would go through setting the idle / tps voltage / timing correctly

    You should be able to easily get that combo to idle at 700 - 800 rpm.

    Spout should be out, set timing to 10 deg.

    Lower idle screw down and readjust TPS voltage .96-.98v if you did the fox swap. Not sure if you can adjust if you still have the 94-95 setup.

    Put spout back in.

    If it is idling that high it might be as simple as a vacuum leak causing you to crank up the idle to keep the car alive.

    There is a post around with more detail on how to set you idle correctly.
  4. Well the odd thing is .. if I unplug the IAC (Idle air control) the idle drop's back down just fine so I know the computer for some reason is adding fuel/spark I would imagine.
    Also I thought the TPS voltage thing was a myth and the computer read's the voltage at KOEO and uses that as a base so monkeying with that was useless or am I wrong?
    I will triple check for vacuum leaks .. but I am going to try your first option and see if I can get the timing back down .. I may have been running "LOCKED OUT" timing with the SPOUT out after the car had already been running for a few minutes before I pulled the SPOUT and set the timing myself. Also I wonder if my dampener has spun which I guess is a possibility. I will look into that too.. Thanks for the input.
  5. The 94-95 ECU's will learn the idle TPS voltage so long as it's between .65v - 1.2v. Adjusting the throttle screw will change the TPS and shouldn't be touched unless you are following the idle reset procedure. The idle rpm is commanded by the ECU. Base timing from Ford is 10* with the "spout" removed. If base timing reads more than a couple of degrees from 10*, it's almost certain the HB has spun.
  6. Thanks for the help the computer's internal ground was shot inside of it which caused all these headache's. Found after testing the VREF voltages to the TPS, EGR and all the other sensors on the GREY/RED wire (PIN 46) from the computer.