Stupid Ground Question

[mikestang63]

So while underneath the car today after reinstalling the power steering pump and wiping off the hoses and underside of the car, I notice that the damn ground cable from the battery is not connected to anything. Where it should be connected to the bolt on the side of the timing cover- the PO must have snapped the bolt off very close to the timing cover and the damn cable is just sitting there,. That explains alot- like when when the fan kicks on or the lights come on the volt gauge drops or when you turn on the lights the temp gauge goes up.

Here's the stupid question. Seeing that the bolt is snapped in almost flush with the timing cover, what is a good alternative ground point for this cable. I am thinking about one of the front timing cover bolts as it is within a few inches. I dont want to mess with that bolt and fubar the timing cover up.

For illustration purposes

Or would the frame rail be a good place.

Thank God I added a 4g ground from the block to the 2nd ground behind the battery when I installed the 3g.

 

[jrichker]

Use on the bolts on the A/C mount or the front of the cylinder head if you don't have A/C. Clean up the connections on the extra ground you added for the 3G alternator while you are at it. All the grounds need to connect to clean, shiny metal. Use sandpaper or a stainless steel wire brush in a drill or Dremel tool to clean things up.

 

[mikestang63]

Use on the bolts on the A/C mount or the front of the cylinder head if you don't have A/C. Clean up the connections on the extra ground you added for the 3G alternator while you are at it. All the grounds need to connect to clean, shiny metal. Use sandpaper or a stainless steel wire brush in a drill or Dremel tool to clean things up.

Thanks J. Thats where I attached the extra 4g wire that goes to the 2ndary ground. One of the lower A/C bolts by rgw PS pump.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

The ground would ideally be to the case of the alternator - as close to where the electricity is made. I would avoid a mixed metal contact location, as in aluminum cover/water pump with a steel bolt and iron block. Aluminum and steel/iron can corrode faster with the extra amps. Corroded stuck timing cover bolts make very extended readings here. If you just go to the body, there will not be enough gauge between the alternator and battery. So it can try to use your new clutch quadrant and cable, or your auto shift cable and maybe overload the one dash to manifold wire to start with. I have warrantied fried shift cables on aftermarket shifters that turned out to need a better body to block ground. So I would choose to listen to jrichker again.