Stupid Newb Tweecer/EA MAF questions

Hi everyone, I finally got a new laptop so I can tune again. I got and registered my copy of EA. I am trying to/wanting to dial in my MAF before anything else. I don't quite understand how to do this though. The MAF on the car is a Pro-M unit that was on it when I got it, and I do not have a stock MAF. I know this would all be easier if I had the stock MAF, but with the holidays coming, I don't want to drop the money on one right now.

Do I have to get a datalog through Calcon of my MAF/MAFV and then somehow load it into EA?

Or do I save my curve that I have in CalEdit, then import that into EA to calculate it? I've read all the help files in EA over and over again and must be missing something. I've also searched around on EECTuning and here and I must be the only one that doesn't get this, as I haven't seen anything related that helps me out.

I'm really more than lost with this. Like do I pick the PROM-19 MAF file in Caledit or the PROM-Cobra-24 file? I have a Cobra with stock injectors which are 24s, but if I remember right the stock MAF is the same as a GTs, which has 19s? None of this is making any sense at all.

And then all the talk about the MAF settings getting messed up when importing or exporting. Ughhh. Times like these I just want my nice and simple carb.

Thanks in advance to anyone that can help me.
 
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The MAF transfer you use in EA should be pretty darn close to the stocker. It will most likely be a tad leaner because of how the MAF guys tune them up (under-reporting airflow). You don't happen to have the transfer sheet eh?

What you want to do is load in the MAF transfer and using the J4J1 injector settings, do some datalogs and run them through the Battery Voltage vs Injector Offset calculator to get the idle/cruise areas correct.

Then if you have a wideband, you can tune the WOT AFR to match what is commanded in your Stabilized Open Loop table by modifying the MAF transfer.

Your combo looks fairly close to stock, should be a pretty good one to learn on.

Wes

P.S. You will find the most power by giving the car more spark and leaning it out to around 13.0:1 at WOT.
 
Thanks for the info Wes. Unfortunately I don't have the transfer sheet for this MAF, or a WBO2. I will try to work on tuning this in the next few days. The problems I'm having with the car are a high idle, for example if I'm pulling up to a light, once I push in the clutch, the rpms jump to about 2k then gradually come down to about 1100-1200 in a period of about 4-5 seconds, then after about 20-30 seconds, it will settle down into a 750-850 rpm idle. Then as soon as I touch the gas, the rpms will shoot back up to about 2k or so. Also between shifts the rpms will shoot up to about 2k, too. I also have some light surging sometimes when it DOES idle.
 
Got a buddy in town with the same problem. We've been trying for two or three months now to set a day to fix his problem, haven't hooked up yet on it though.

Outta curiosity, what size is your TB? What is your TPS voltage? How many turns from bottomed out is your ISC bypass screw?

Wes
 
Well I bought a stock MAF today. Found it on corral. Should have it in a few days. I still haven't been able to resolve any of the problems. I think this will be much better/easier for me with the stock MAF especially since I am still very new to the tweecer/tuning thing.

Not sure on the size of the TB. It's a Professional Products that was on it when I got the car. TPS voltage is .95V; it was one of the first things I checked when I started using the Tweecer. I set the IAC bypass screw to whatever it should be at....I can't remember the spec though.
 
Well I bought a stock MAF today. Found it on corral. Should have it in a few days. I still haven't been able to resolve any of the problems. I think this will be much better/easier for me with the stock MAF especially since I am still very new to the tweecer/tuning thing.

Not sure on the size of the TB. It's a Professional Products that was on it when I got the car. TPS voltage is .95V; it was one of the first things I checked when I started using the Tweecer. I set the IAC bypass screw to whatever it should be at....I can't remember the spec though.

Let me give you a word or two of encouragement Blaise :D

You learn a bit each day :nice:
and
Before you know it :eek:

You start to get proficient with all this self tuning stuff ;)

Look at this site as well as others and pay attention to peeps like Mr. Wes
and others who not only know what they are doing ... but ... they got a 94-95
Stang just like you.

When you read some good stuff :banana:
Copy & paste in organized folders on your hard drive :Word:

Now ... about your Maf concerns

Honestly Blaise ... if you are fairly close on the t curve ........
Its good enough to get started
cause
You most likely are gonna fine tune it a bit later on

I've seen many have good luck with the generic ProM 30 point curves

I gotta tell you some basic info here that I think may help you about
that particular ProM meter

It is has a 19# cal
so
It really is not gonna be that different from the OEM meter :nono:
as far as
Being all that effective at yielding a gain in hp

Other aftermarked meters with a 19# cal are gonna have about the
same capability of dealing with airflow as the OEM meter.

Actually ... most of the time ...
the little OEM meter is gonna be be more accurate :eek:

I say your idea of going back to the OEM meter will be a benefit to you

Now ... consider the following :)

By your using the OEM meter ...........
Its not to say you can't make some improvement on your
Closed Loop Tune :nono:

You just have a peace of mind of knowing the curve is gonna be very
close from the start ... but ... I'd bet you will find a few small tweecs
on a point or two will be needed.

Point here about all this is .................

You will be less overwhelmed with your early tuning efforts

Even though you do run the OEM meter ...........
You'll find the values of the inj slopes, breakpoint, offsets and the like
can be improved upon and as you get involved in all that ............

You'll learn some info ;)
That will be so helpful in your basic understanding of the 94-95 pcm :Word:

Wes has some great stuff on the Wiki site
and
I got some very basic stuff on my site as well

Good Luck Blaise and have some fun :nice:

Grady
 
I say sell the pro-m unit.

When you need a bigger maf get a bigger stock maf. Since you have a tuner if you REALLY needed to you could prob. make a escorts maf work (although it would prob. peg at 2-3k rpm). I got my 80mm 98gt maf for under 50$...Lmaf/03 cobra mafs go for around 90-100$ and all have transfers that are not hard to find and they will be very close to what you need out of the box.
 
Well guys.......I got a stock MAF and finally got it on the car tonight. I needed a few little odds and ends to get it on the car(MAF filter adapter and new filter). I started all over with the stock tune. I changed the fan settings since I have a 180 t-stat, changed the settings for my headers, took care of the EGR and smog pump stuff, speed limiters, and a few other things. Aaaannnnddd.......it's still doing the same weird hanging idle stuff.....:notnice: :( :nonono:

I don't understand this. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. The car does have an aftermarket throttle body, has been bored .030 over, and has some kind of aftermarket cam, and some headers. I don't know what cam it has but it's definitely not stock.

I will continue to tweak things and recheck things, but honestly if I can not resolve things soon I will be seek an alternative solution.

I do appreciate the time you guys take to help out and offer your expertise though. :nice:
 
I'll try to help if I can ...but ... First things first .........

help me to better help you :D

Please put your mods in your sig as that is the first place peeps look to intelligently
form a reply to any Q you might ask :)

btw ... Be sure to include trans type and pcm type :nice:

Next thing is ... What did you do to tune for your headers :scratch:

First thing I'd do is ensure no vacuum or header leaks or faulty electrical
connections or anything like that.

I'd then make sure the mechanical stuff like

dizzy setting
isc
tb blade stop screw
tb bleed screw
tps

are in good working order and adjusted according to spec

Since you got a cam ... start the tune with an idle speed of 900 rpm

That ought to be enough for a good starting place ;)
then
We can build upon that :nice:

Grady
 
I'll put all my car info in my sig in a few minutes. I did have it there, but I put a link to a page with everything about my car there instead....thought that'd be easier and take up less space, but no biggie.

I made sure the TPS, base timing, TB blade screw and bleed screw, made sure the IAC was clean, and all that were in check a while ago. I will go over it all again though. I am pretty positive that there are no vacuum leaks or faulty electrical connections and I know there aren't any exhaust leaks. Both O2 sensors are brand new also.

For the headers, all I changed was the Exhaust Pulse Delay settings since the O2s are now further down stream.

I will change the idle and also Wes PM'd me with a few suggestions as well that I will experiment with.

Thanks
 
I'll put all my car info in my sig in a few minutes. I did have it there, but I put a link to a page with everything about my car there instead....thought that'd be easier and take up less space, but no biggie.

I made sure the TPS, base timing, TB blade screw and bleed screw, made sure the IAC was clean, and all that were in check a while ago. I will go over it all again though. I am pretty positive that there are no vacuum leaks or faulty electrical connections and I know there aren't any exhaust leaks. Both O2 sensors are brand new also.

For the headers, all I changed was the Exhaust Pulse Delay settings since the O2s are now further down stream.

I will change the idle and also Wes PM'd me with a few suggestions as well that I will experiment with.

Thanks

That looks like a good start :nice:

About the Exhaust Pulse Delay

I gotta tell ya :)
I changed them settings all different which ways from Sunday :crazy:

I just couldn't tell it did a dad burn thing for my combo :shrug:

I'm a big believer if you make a change and you are not sure it makes
any difference ... it usually is a good thing to put it back ;)

If you got Wes helping you on the side
thats a good thing for you :nice:

If you notice anything that makes a big difference :banana:

Might wanna share it with the rest of our 94-95 friends :D

Grady
 
Ok, so I raised the idle to 900, reset the TB set screw per Wes's method, and adjusted the TB bleed screw from 2 turns out to 1.5, and the car is running much better. Still a few issues though. If I push in the clutch and coast while driving, it will settle at about 1800 rpms until I come to a stop, then it will come down to about 1400 for a second or two, the settle at 1100 or so. After about 20-25 seconds it will finally settle down to around 900. On a cold startup the idle will kinda hunt between 1000-1300 a little bit too.

It's nice to see some progress though.....it kinda relights the fire to keep up with this. :nice:

I will keep on reading and trying to fix the little issues though.

Thanks guys. :SNSign:
 
If you've got EEC Analyzer you can nail the ISC tuning with it.

Otherwise, mess with the TB Airflow scalar (around .8-.9 has worked for me on other cars with similar symptoms). You can try multiplying the "Neutral Idle Airflow" function's airflow values UP in 20% increments.

Nailing this will most likely also fix the startup hunt if the fueling is correct. :nice:

Wes
 
If you've got EEC Analyzer you can nail the ISC tuning with it.

Otherwise, mess with the TB Airflow scalar (around .8-.9 has worked for me on other cars with similar symptoms). You can try multiplying the "Neutral Idle Airflow" function's airflow values UP in 20% increments.

Nailing this will most likely also fix the startup hunt if the fueling is correct. :nice:

Wes

Good info for sure :nice:

I have seen the same kinds of things as well :)

Grady
 
Ok, so I raised the idle to 900, reset the TB set screw per Wes's method, and adjusted the TB bleed screw from 2 turns out to 1.5, and the car is running much better. Still a few issues though. If I push in the clutch and coast while driving, it will settle at about 1800 rpms until I come to a stop, then it will come down to about 1400 for a second or two, the settle at 1100 or so. After about 20-25 seconds it will finally settle down to around 900. On a cold startup the idle will kinda hunt between 1000-1300 a little bit too.

It's nice to see some progress though.....it kinda relights the fire to keep up with this. :nice:

I will keep on reading and trying to fix the little issues though.

Thanks guys. :SNSign:

i see you have long tubes ... did you update the exhaust pulse delay?