No subframes? Then that's the first thing needed. I think the best thing about subframes is when you jack the car up behind the front wheel the rear will come up to. Oh yea they stiffen the entire car up to.
Suspensioin 101 Questions
- Thread starter 94GTLaserRC
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Joe, I talked to Javi today..He said the stang is for sale 
He also said he has 3 sets of subs at home that he made, and theyre ready to go on a car.
Ok...I guess we ALL agree that subs are first. Mo: I have Steeda Springs and C/C already. Yeah, I dont race, But I still would like to jump off the line without spinning tires like crazy. That's hard to do with a Vortech and a 3000 Stall.
So I guess next is U/L rear CA's?
I guess I would like to start with subs and then the "next best thing" after that, which is kinda what Im looking for the best choice for.
Thanks
RC
He also said he has 3 sets of subs at home that he made, and theyre ready to go on a car.Ok...I guess we ALL agree that subs are first. Mo: I have Steeda Springs and C/C already. Yeah, I dont race, But I still would like to jump off the line without spinning tires like crazy. That's hard to do with a Vortech and a 3000 Stall.
So I guess next is U/L rear CA's?
I guess I would like to start with subs and then the "next best thing" after that, which is kinda what Im looking for the best choice for.
Thanks
RC
95BLKGT5.0
Founding Member
Hey RC how about a pic of your car with the new rebels on it.
As far as subframes go I saw some of these for $175
The Extreme Matrix Brace acts as a support bridge to connect the Doublecross Subframe Connectors in the center of the car, with the Jacking Rails at the outside of the car. This geometric triangulation forms the Extreme Subframe System. The complete package is by far the most rigid subframe system available for late model Mustangs & Cobras.
As far as subframes go I saw some of these for $175
The Extreme Matrix Brace acts as a support bridge to connect the Doublecross Subframe Connectors in the center of the car, with the Jacking Rails at the outside of the car. This geometric triangulation forms the Extreme Subframe System. The complete package is by far the most rigid subframe system available for late model Mustangs & Cobras.
NO...Not that that's TOO much for susupension in general..IT's just that Ive seen SFC's all over for $100 or less.baglock1 said:How much extra have you spent on chrome? And you aren't willing to drop some cash on a solid foundation?
Besides...If I enter my car in a show, the Bling "can" win it for me...Suspension cant.. I dont need top-notch suspension like I like the bling, but I do want better.
How is something like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7916555494&category=33583
RC
Or this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7916946284&category=33583
Rob, not all subs are created equal. DO NOT EVEN BOTHER INSTALLING SUBS UNLESS THEY ARE FULL LENGTH. Trust me on this. Also, round tubular subframe are stronger typically than tube steel ones. I run the Global West subframes on my car with the seat tie-ins and I love them. With suspension parts, you normaly get what you pay for, just remember that.
http://www.globalwest.net
http://www.globalwest.net
Dude..Youre missing my point....Im alotting certain amt of $$ to the car each month. You arguably have the best suspension setup on the boards. Why dont more guys have that? They are concerned with looks and speed. I would love to have it ALL, but cant, at least for now.baglock1 said:I guess I just don't understand the show car mentality.
I just want some "better" suspension stuff, but not necessarily the best. When I finally take my car to a show, the "looks" are more important. Since I dont race, that's about my only goal with the car besides my own satisfaction. I would love it if you were down S. here. I would like to take your car for a spin...maybe then I could catch your virus.
Paul..Thanks for the link..Are those the $145 Subs on that site?
$99 shorter ones are NOT worth it at all, even If Im having someone make them for me dirt cheap?
Thanks again.
RC
RC,
I probably am missing the point as it's something I do on a fairly regular basis. I can appreciate wanting to get the best bang for the buck but it sounded like you're not willing to drop a few extra bucks for performance (in this case, a solid platform) if it won't do anything for you on the concourse. Admittedly, I find $175 a bit too much for regular SFC's as well. However I see $175 as a drop in the bucket when you start looking at things like engine mods.
In any event, here's where I would start with a suspension setup that was based on mild street performance. This is assuming that the car has nothing done to it already.
MM full-length SFC's, bare steel -- $119
H&R Super Sport Springs -- $229
Bilstein struts and shocks -- ~$465
Next:
MM LCA's -- $250
MM CC plates (in chrome, just for you
) -- $250
This will be a pretty good street suspension that will not only give you a descent stance, but improve the feel of it on the road as well.
I probably am missing the point as it's something I do on a fairly regular basis. I can appreciate wanting to get the best bang for the buck but it sounded like you're not willing to drop a few extra bucks for performance (in this case, a solid platform) if it won't do anything for you on the concourse. Admittedly, I find $175 a bit too much for regular SFC's as well. However I see $175 as a drop in the bucket when you start looking at things like engine mods.
In any event, here's where I would start with a suspension setup that was based on mild street performance. This is assuming that the car has nothing done to it already.
MM full-length SFC's, bare steel -- $119
H&R Super Sport Springs -- $229
Bilstein struts and shocks -- ~$465
Next:
MM LCA's -- $250
MM CC plates (in chrome, just for you
) -- $250This will be a pretty good street suspension that will not only give you a descent stance, but improve the feel of it on the road as well.
94TURBO5 O
New Member
Killercanary said:
Yeah man don't get stingy on the suspension upgrades.
Buy the best chit and you will not be sorry. I run the full length Kenny Browns that tie into the seats and they were worth every cent. This is my set-up:Hotchkis CC Plates
Eibach Pro-Kit
Koni Yellow Ajustable shocks/struts
Steeda Bump Steer
Off-Set Rack Bushings
Granatelli U/L Control Arms
BBK Strut Tower Brace
My car handles like it's on rails. I did it piece by piece over about a years time. Get the SFC's then some control arms first.
Here's my suspension:
Eibach Sportline springs (2" drop)
KYB AGX adjustable shocks and struts
BBK rear upper and lower control arms
Hotchkis Caster/Camber plates
It handles great, but I was not too impressed with the KYB's. But, I was able to pull a 2.0 60' on my old 245/45/17 BFG comp t/a's with this setup.
Next up is definitely subframe connectors! Since I put my new tires on I can really feel the car flexing.
I would like to install a tubular K-member when I swap engines. Does anyone know if you can run one without coil-overs? I definitely want to go with coil-overs, but that would be too much $$$ at one time.
Eibach Sportline springs (2" drop)
KYB AGX adjustable shocks and struts
BBK rear upper and lower control arms
Hotchkis Caster/Camber plates
It handles great, but I was not too impressed with the KYB's. But, I was able to pull a 2.0 60' on my old 245/45/17 BFG comp t/a's with this setup.
Next up is definitely subframe connectors! Since I put my new tires on I can really feel the car flexing.
I would like to install a tubular K-member when I swap engines. Does anyone know if you can run one without coil-overs? I definitely want to go with coil-overs, but that would be too much $$$ at one time.
Rootus
Officially Addicted
AFAIK, usually not. In order to run an aftermarket K without coilovers you would need to be able to reuse the stock control arms, or have aftermarket ones that have the spring perch. I haven't seen anything that matches this description... but I haven't looked any farther than MMLow-5.0 said:
.Dave
HairyCanary said:AFAIK, usually not. In order to run an aftermarket K without coilovers you would need to be able to reuse the stock control arms, or have aftermarket ones that have the spring perch. I haven't seen anything that matches this description... but I haven't looked any farther than MM
Dave
Running the stock control arms should get me by for a couple months, right? this sounds reasonable because since Im gonna have the engine out I might as well go with the tubular k-member then instead of changing it later
Low-5.0 said:Running the stock control arms should get me by for a couple months, right? this sounds reasonable because since Im gonna have the engine out I might as well go with the tubular k-member then instead of changing it later
PA, D&D and I believe QA1 have a K-member that will fit with stock A arms. Then you can reuse stock springs, etc.
GTPhreak
Founding Member
baglock1 said:
where can i find the bilsteins for under 5 bills? will they be a good match for a car with stock suspension save for some already installed c-springs?
baglock1 said:RC,
In any event, here's where I would start with a suspension setup that was based on mild street performance.
MM full-length SFC's, bare steel -- $119
H&R Super Sport Springs -- $229
Bilstein struts and shocks -- ~$465
Next:
MM LCA's -- $250
MM CC plates (in chrome, just for you
Yeah....this is the "type" of reply I was looking for!
A couple of ?? on this tho:
1. Why "bare steel" on the SFC?...It "sounds" not too good.
2. I already have Steeda Springs and C/C plates. I guess that would make me omit the srpins and CC plates in your reply above? (even tho Im not happy with the "looks" of the Steeda C/C plates)
3. Why just "L" CA and not upper?
4. Finally, the LCA's you refer to: that is REAR?
Thanks again
Thanks to you too JR!
Joe: can you help me w/ install of this schtuff when I eventually get it?
Thanks
RC
GTPhreak said:
The 00R Bilsteins can be had for around $280 from www.oemfordparts.com. They're also the same valving as the 03 Cobra Bilsteins. I got the Bilstein rear shocks from http://www.shox.com/. They were around $180 IIRC. I'd have to double check my receipts btu I'm out of town right now.
A note on http://www.oemfordparts.com/. Be sure to double check that that's the price for the pair of the struts. I'm sure it is, and it's the same price as when I bought them, but the website is a little enigmatic about it.
GTPhreak said:
The Bilsteins were my first suspension mod and I used them with the stock springs for around a year (when I swapped to coilovers). They worked great and I absolutely fell in love with the increase in performance and incredible ride. They compliment the higher spring rates very well but they work great with the stock springs as well.
94GTLaserRC said:
Yeah....this is the "type" of reply I was looking for!
A couple of ?? on this tho:
1. Why "bare steel" on the SFC?...It "sounds" not too good.
The bare steel SFC's are just unpainted. They also offer them powdercoated ($149). There are two schools of thought on the matter. One, go with the unpainted as when you weld them on, you're going to burn through the powdercoating and have to touch them up with spraypaint anyways. Or two, get the powdercoat as it will stand up to road debris much better than spraypaint. Personally, with us living on the coast in FL, I'd recommend the powdercoat just for rust prevention. But if $$$ is a concern, get the bare steel and invest in 2 cains of Krylon and be sure to put a few really good coats on them.
94GTLaserRC said:
Yeah, you can omit that stuff (but I think the MM plates are better looking and performing). Steeda's new 4-bolt CC plates look better, but I haven't spoken to anyone running them. They're aluminum though and so I wouldn't run them with coilovers. The only aluminum plates I'd consider with c/o's are the Griggs plates (which are the exception to the rule in almost every point of consideration; too bad they're expensive as hell).
94GTLaserRC said:
I wouldn't bother with UCA's for a street car until the upper bushings are worn out and need to be replaced. At that point, I'd get the FRPP HD UCA's. For anything other than straight line, drag only performance, stick with rubber for the bushings. Do not use poly in the UCA's.
94GTLaserRC said:
Yep. The MM rear LCA's.
94GTLaserRC said:
Just to ease you're mind, it's all a pretty simple install, with the exception of the SFC's. They're pretty simple too but you need a welder.
edited for syntex
Thanks Dan... I think I WOULD get the SFC's in Powder coat...What about Steeda's Chromoly tubular SFC? Only reason is I can Drive to Steeda and get them for $119, and not pay shipping.
I have no issue with the cost of the R-LCA, but those shocks/struts are a little pricey for me now. I guess according to what I want, the logical sequence based on what I already have is:
1. SFC's
2. LCA for the rear.
If so, that's enough for now to get me started...
DO those LCA's come in red? Ive seen them on Ebay...but not that brand.
What would be the problemt with these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7916946284&category=33583
RC
I have no issue with the cost of the R-LCA, but those shocks/struts are a little pricey for me now. I guess according to what I want, the logical sequence based on what I already have is:
1. SFC's
2. LCA for the rear.
If so, that's enough for now to get me started...
DO those LCA's come in red? Ive seen them on Ebay...but not that brand.
What would be the problemt with these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7916946284&category=33583
RC
Rootus
Officially Addicted
This is the guy I bought mine from:GTPhreak said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33590&item=7917364269&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
Dave
