Suspension Help

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Tires Tires Tires! I didnt see anyone mention this. How are your tires? They can make a huge difference in ride quality. If you want something that rides nice, the best I've rode in is 4cyl springs in a v8. The spring rates are softer so you get that nice 'float' feeling while driving. They can be order from Auto zone for 70 bucks for the front, and 70 for the rear.
 
HISSIN50 said:
Got links?
I did yesterday, i should of posted. But i did check before i posted the reply.
I believe they were BIN 190 shipped. For 4 of the blue ones.

They used to be on there all the time for that. I've been through so many different shocks i've seen good prices on all them.

I know the price may sound low, but i wouldn't tell someone a price that didn't exist.
But if you look they have deals with shocks and tokico springs for 375+shipping. I'm pretty sure even the 99+ springs and shocks should work.
 
2000xp8 said:
I did yesterday, i should of posted. But i did check before i posted the reply.
I believe they were BIN 190 shipped. For 4 of the blue ones.

They used to be on there all the time for that. I've been through so many different shocks i've seen good prices on all them.

I know the price may sound low, but i wouldn't tell someone a price that didn't exist.
But if you look they have deals with shocks and tokico springs for 375+shipping. I'm pretty sure even the 99+ springs and shocks should work.
Thanks for the info. I just went through a long search when getting struts and shocks for the '94GT and had not seen a set of 4 dampers new and shipped, for that cheap. Sounds like a real nice deal to me. :nice:
 
Dang. I looked on ebay a few days ago for eibachs and tokicos. I didnt see anything under $200. I'll look again though.

Tires. My tires are BF Goodrich Gforce KD's. 225/50zr 16. They were put on new in january of 2005. They are almost in perfect shape.


Bullit vs Tokico & Eibach.

Lets duke it out. What the pros/cons?

Does the bullit kit come with those spring isolator things?

Thanks guys
 
I doubt anything comes with energy suspension isolators. Plan on buying them seperately.

I'm figuring these guys used bullitt kit's that are for real bullit mustangs, which is for a factory car. So it's not going to be nearly as aggressive lowering or handling wise.
Maybe that is what you are looking for.

The eibach springs are a guranteed win, i'm not sure i've ever seen someone unhappy with them.
 
Quad shocks are a tough one. Koni's are the best, but they cost an arm and a leg. I had a set of kyb's, but they were a joke and took up too much space. (that's what i get for buying them at $25 a pair NIB).

Looks like prices have risen. Last year my buddy paid $200 shipped for the eibach lowering springs.
Guess my numbers are outdated, sorry.

Just make sure, that the springs are the lowering pro kit, NOT the drag pro kit, you will have to compare part numbers, because the buddy i just told you about, had to return them because he screwed up.

Almost forgot, you will also need energy suspension sway bar links, about $25. Plan on them, because stock ones that have been on long will likely break when you take them off, if you can even get them off.
 
My Springs in my Bullitt kit came with the Isolators for the top of the fronts only. I was able to get new lowers cheap from the Dealer and I put some Polys on the rear. I also bought new Motorcraft Quads and they were less than 20 bucks a piece.
 
The eibach numbers are just the spring rates. You need to go by kit part number when purchasing.

I've done spring changes about a dozen times, most of which on my own car.

First side is going to take you like 2-4 hours, second side should then take you about 30 min to and hour.

Can't use a spring compressor, because the spring is curved when in place. Nor do you really need it.

Couple methods of changing work. IMO the quickest is:

Jack under the arm towards the K member, take the sway bar link off, take A arm to K mem bolts out (which can get dangerous so be careful) then lower the jack, pull the spring out, and replace with new springs. Here's where it gets tricky and you may need 2 people, jack it back up into place (it's not going to want to go easy) and put the bolts back in.
Not quite as simple as it sounds, but it gets easier with practice.

Other method, which may or may not work. work, take the outside parts all off, spindle, brakes etc, and stuff the spring in, this worked on my buddies car with eibachs, but would not work on my car.

Back is as simple as disconecting the shocks and putting some wieght on the rear.
 
2000xp8 said:
The eibach numbers are just the spring rates. You need to go by kit part number when purchasing.

I've done spring changes about a dozen times, most of which on my own car.

First side is going to take you like 2-4 hours, second side should then take you about 30 min to and hour.

Can't use a spring compressor, because the spring is curved when in place. Nor do you really need it.

Couple methods of changing work. IMO the quickest is:

Jack under the arm towards the K member, take the sway bar link off, take A arm to K mem bolts out (which can get dangerous so be careful) then lower the jack, pull the spring out, and replace with new springs. Here's where it gets tricky and you may need 2 people, jack it back up into place (it's not going to want to go easy) and put the bolts back in.
Not quite as simple as it sounds, but it gets easier with practice.

Other method, which may or may not work. work, take the outside parts all off, spindle, brakes etc, and stuff the spring in, this worked on my buddies car with eibachs, but would not work on my car.

Back is as simple as disconecting the shocks and putting some wieght on the rear.

I have figured out the part number for the eibach pro kit. I was wondering what the spring rates actually mean.

And judging from what you have told me, i really dont need any extra parts. I understand that i'll need some of those spring isolators.

Quad shocks. What are there job? Wonder if i would even notice it if i changed them? In other words, should i change them?

When suspension is intalled, will i need to get an alignment done?

Now i still have to figure out which to get.

Eibach and tokicos or the Bullit kit.

Thanks for your help.
 
I have a feeling the bullitt kit will dissappoint you, if in fact it's just the shocks and springs from a bullitt mustang. Me personally if that's the case i'd just change the shocks and leave the stock springs in the car.
I didn't see if any of these guys posted specifics of the bullit kit, but i can almost gurantee, after 2 weeks of driving you car will be much lower with the eibachs. Lower and handle better. Ride may be a bit worse though compared to the bullitts, but it's worth it.

Quad shocks dampen the suspension from front to back, I truely haven't figured out if they work or not, some say yes some say no. I say no, hence i've had mine on and off a dozen times and never felt the difference, but i do have all aftermarket control arms, which does effect that.
I'd just leave the stock quads on if i was you.

You will definetly need an alignment, problem with that is the springs will settle over a few weeks, so IMO, get your alignment as close to perfect at home, drive the car a bit, then get the alignment, because if it settles too much, you'll need another alignment.
 
2000xp8 said:
I have a feeling the bullitt kit will dissappoint you, if in fact it's just the shocks and springs from a bullitt mustang. Me personally if that's the case i'd just change the shocks and leave the stock springs in the car.
I didn't see if any of these guys posted specifics of the bullit kit, but i can almost gurantee, after 2 weeks of driving you car will be much lower with the eibachs. Lower and handle better. Ride may be a bit worse though compared to the bullitts, but it's worth it.

Quad shocks dampen the suspension from front to back, I truely haven't figured out if they work or not, some say yes some say no. I say no, hence i've had mine on and off a dozen times and never felt the difference, but i do have all aftermarket control arms, which does effect that.
I'd just leave the stock quads on if i was you.

You will definetly need an alignment, problem with that is the springs will settle over a few weeks, so IMO, get your alignment as close to perfect at home, drive the car a bit, then get the alignment, because if it settles too much, you'll need another alignment.

It depends on the roads you travel too, the roads are terrible in Ohio and I am happy that my Bullitt kit only lowered my car 3/4" so I am not dragging over anything. My ride quality is better than stock and handling is fantastic, plus the price of $400 for everything is just icing on the cake.
 
Bilsteins are phenominal. They are truly a world class damper; and after all the different shocks I've used I don't see myself ever using anything but Bilsteins again. Which springs would be "optimal" depends on which Bilsteins you use... there are several variations in the product line. However, just the Bilsteins alone are more than your stated budget. On the other hand, if your stock springs are in decent shape, just adding Bil's alone to the mix may give you the ride you're looking for- they are that good.
 
stangbear427 said:
Bilsteins are phenominal. They are truly a world class damper; and after all the different shocks I've used I don't see myself ever using anything but Bilsteins again. Which springs would be "optimal" depends on which Bilsteins you use... there are several variations in the product line. However, just the Bilsteins alone are more than your stated budget. On the other hand, if your stock springs are in decent shape, just adding Bil's alone to the mix may give you the ride you're looking for- they are that good.


I have found Bilsteins for $469. I dont know what shape my springs are in. And sometimes you just gotta throw the budget numbers out the window.

I am really not interested in lowering the car that much. I can barely get a jack underneath it now. I believe the bilsteins that i need is the "HD" setup. Something for street.

thank you.
 
Well... they are awsome. And when you consider the lifetime warantee, the price doesn't seem that high anymore for the last set of dampers you will buy. Some cheaper shocks carry the same promise, I believe Tokicos are lifetime too- but I don't know that I'd be happy with them indefinitely.
A "performance" spring should definitely be used for best results, but I don't know that it's absolutely necessary. With a softer spring like the Eibach Prokit, it wouldn't be too low and would ride and handle well. I'm running the Prokit on my wife's '89 LX (16" pony wheels) and don't have any trouble jacking it up. A more optimal spring for the HD Bils is a specific rate H&R, but it will be firmer and I don't know if they can be ordered in a length that won't lower the car more than you want. You may also want to look into the Eibach Pro System which comes with Eibach dampers that are valved specifically for the Prokit springs. Eibachs new packaged systems are pretty nice, and competitively priced. Buying components that were designed to be used together is usually the lowest compromise of comfort for handling.