Ok I’ve read a lot of threads about “must” have upgrades to our suspension and I want to know is it really true. I did a ported/polished pi head swap, intake, headers, new shocks, struts, quad shocks. I drive spiritedly but don’t go to the strip. I put down 282 HP and 302 foot pounds on the Dyno. Do I “need” frame connectors and/or lower control arms. If I do I’ve really liked what maximum Motorsport is offering. Thoughts?
To frame my comments...I have a 2K GT convertible that just turned 90K miles. (Koni struts/shocks, stock springs, SR sway bars, SR front and rear shock tower braces, MM rear upper and lower control arms.).
First the rear control arms. Consider the age and mileage on your car...the existing bushings are probably close to being shot, or at the least very mushy...the existing control arms may have developed some flex as well over the years (there may have been other spirited drivers). I replaced my upper and lower rear control arms with Maximum Motorsports pieces. I used the recommended uppers with rubber bushings and new rubber bushings at the axle (read MM's recommendations)...and their HD LCAs (urethane bushing/spherical bushing). These made a big difference in the attitude of the car, not only in straight line, but (more importantly) in corners as well.
Subframe connectors. These have been a standard "must have" recommendation by many and are certainly the way to go if racing...spirited drivers will reap benefits as well. I installed them because the convertibles (almost all unibody convertibles) tend to twist, flex, or sag depending on the conditions. I went with bolt-ins, which are less popular...but I used Southside Machine units which are quite hefty and attach at the front K member joint and at the rear LCA pivot effectively tying things together tightly (other bolt in offerings are not as robust and do not attach as far fore and aft as the SSM pieces). ((Most will tell you to go with weld ins...and that is fine...I couldn't find a welder seriously interested in doing the work and believe I ended up better off)). In any event, the subframe connectors make a big difference in the car, eliminating twist and flex.
Driving wise, where I used to feel my car sort of wrap up tight before coming off the line, it now just launches with the control arms and connectors...very nice. Cornering with the connectors (I have larger sway bars and shock tower braces too) is not unlike a go cart. The car is very stiff. Enjoy.
This is a very good write up thank you. I plan on doing both upgrades but my budget has been stretched a little thin after the head swap. If you had to pick one to do first which one would it be? I did find a shop to do the welding but I can install the control arms myself. I’m thinking the price will be pretty close either control arms or frame connectors.