Suspension Suspension problem--lowering springs gone wrong

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In the case of these cars I've found that the free floating,nonbinding,and decreased wheel rate associated with the change to poly front control arm bushings help with DEcreasing impact harshness,far more than any increase of NVH one might associate with the change alone from rubber to poly in this position.
All this relies on the proper install since most,if not all polyurethane bushes will need trimming to obtain the no binding aspect and to eliminate the so called "poly squeak"
 
Do you have one of the springs that came out of the front? If so, please show us a pic of it sitting right beside the new lowering spring showing the height difference. A pic from the side.
NO...i had them originally done at a shop and the shop tossed them...they might still have them but I am kind of not sure I could contact them and not loose my :poo: since I paid money and the job was not done right
 
Does any of this look odd? Only thing I noticed is there is no sway bar on this car, is that a vert/84 model thing that didn't come with? Also, this is the pry bar I am using...I cannot get the spring to compress enough to get the rear to come within 2" of the perch.
 

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I have no problem swapping springs. Swapped a bunch both lowering and stock back in. What I haven't done is try it with the spindle on. I may be wrong and it works fine with it on. I couldn't do it like that. You need the spring as close to in place as you can, then use the pry bar head on. That's the best spot to keep the spring from popping out. You start slightly lifting the control arm with a jack (a second prison would help you) while using the pry bar to place to bottom of the spring. At first if you have the arm low enough, only the back side of the bottom will be touching the recessed area on the lower control arm. The pry bar keeps the spring from popping out as the jack slowly lifts the arm.
That's difficult to explain. Hope it's sorta understandable. You'll get it. We'll all keep helping till you do.
 
I have no idea who this is but this is how I do it. I do keep the pry bar on the spring as I'm jacking the control arm up because it often pops out. Takes a few tries sometimes. Nothing very difficult though. He did it with the spindle on so maybe I just need more room than most...lol.


View: https://youtu.be/XJXMuaocmMw
 
The reality is that you should have purchased the shocks and the springs at the same time if the shocks were unknown.
It's just easier to do these things all at once.

If the shop tightened the a arms drooped, that is their fault.
If that's not the issue, they were never going to be responsible for the aftermarket springs that a customer provided.
It's not like they made on money on the spring purchase.

I think you are going to have to learn what many here already have. These cars are old. The need a lot of minor repairs. It appears you have a garage. May just be easier (and way cheaper) to do some things yourself.
Even if that means learning and buying some tools.
I have set out so many times to pay someone to do a job on the Mustang just to do it myself when the person I’m trying to pay has no idea what they’re doing. I always figure if they don’t know what they’re doing and neither do I, why pay?
 
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Update...So I was able to get the new springs I ordered in...had to use the old struts still because I ordered the incorrect year on the new ones but it came out pretty good...is very close tot he stance I was looking for to begin with.
 

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So what was the issue with the last set?
Yes!! We do need a "reason." I asked for pics of the originals compared to the Ford Racing springs but the shop kept them. I'm hoping you remembered that and took one for us of the new ones compared to the tall sitting ones you took out? :D
 
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Yes!! We do need a "reason." I asked for pics of the originals compared to the Ford Racing springs but the shop kept them. I'm hoping you remembered that and took one for us of the new ones compared to the tall sitting ones you took out? :D
I am not sure if I took that pic I have to go back and look...I was so wrapped up in my nightmare(honestly if my cousin didn't come to visit this past weekend the car would still be on jack stands--lol) that I might have forgotten...but the newer springs I got were definitely 3/4--1" shorter, had one less coil in them, and the coils were farther apart so they had more flex in them. The odd thing is the ones that were "wrong" were rated 500--570lbs and I could not get them to compress with the pry bar hardly at all, maybe 1"...where as the new ones are rated 525lbs and the compressed a good 1-1.5" easily....the springs are the only thing I changed though so either they were the issue or me working on stuff "unbound" something.
 
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Well, now you know how to do springs.
And the shop that installed the last set is off the hook. It's always a risk to provide your own parts for someone else to install.
 
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