T-5 input shaft for a Mustang 2 Bell housing

Steve FLeming

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Feb 5, 2020
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I am putting a T-5 from a 1990 Fox Body in my 1978 II - I have heard the Holden AU Commodore uses the right input shaft and bearing to use the 1978 bell housing, being longer it will put the shifter in a better place. I also have found a cross member for a T-5 using the 1978 bellhousing. Does anyone know where I can find the right input shaft for this conversion.
Also would I use the same 1990's fly wheel and clutch assembly

thanks
Steve
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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I don't know anything about the Holden using the right input shaft in order to keep the stock II bell so I can't say anything about that. But what most others have done, myself included, is had a sleeve made to fit whichever T5 was swapped in. I don't recall the exact dimensions anymore, but the T5 from a 94-95 Mustang requires that the sleeve be a little shorter, it seems that it was 5/8" difference?

As far as using the 90s flywheel/clutch setup, it's not compatible with the II bell. II flywheels use a smaller diameter ring gear.

The clutch will not work with the II flywheel to the best of my knowledge either, but that one may or may not be 100% true. I know that they won't bolt on as a stock unit for sure though. So if it physically fits the diameter of the flywheel AND it fits inside the II bell, you'd definitely need to have the mounting and locating holes drilled and tapped/reamed on center.

Again, to the best of my knowledge, you have 2 options.
1. Use the II bell, have a sleeve made to extend the input shaft bearing so that it contacts and supports the T5 input shaft. Use the II flywheel and clutch setup, the cross member that you've found, then have your driveshaft shortened the appropriate length and you're golden. OR
2. Use a Fox bell, flywheel, and clutch assembly and whatever accompanying pieces you need to make it fit and you're golden again.
Those are really the only 2 options that I know and they are both tried and true.
 

StadEMS3

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Jun 19, 2003
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Use the 90 T5 and go with a QuickTime bell RM-6053, it is bolt in, no need for pilot bearing spacers and it clocks the fork down low like a II bell for easy header clearance. Granted they are not cheap, but it's worth it. I also went with a Fox clutch and fly wheel (I have an 83GT engine in mine)

Also, get a trans brace from Classic Auto Reproductions, you use a MII trans bushing.

If you want to stay with the MII clutch set up, Classic now carries them as well!
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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I either didn't know or didn't remember that Classic carried the clutch - good to know!!
 
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Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches
May 14, 2019
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Yep I put one in last summer. Highly recommend it.
 
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f150bft

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Nov 5, 2018
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Use the 90 T5 and go with a QuickTime bell RM-6053, it is bolt in, no need for pilot bearing spacers and it clocks the fork down low like a II bell for easy header clearance. Granted they are not cheap, but it's worth it. I also went with a Fox clutch and fly wheel (I have an 83GT engine in mine)

Also, get a trans brace from Classic Auto Reproductions, you use a MII trans bushing.

If you want to stay with the MII clutch set up, Classic now carries them as well!
The only thing with the quicktime is it will have the shifter even more forward towards the dash.
 

Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches
May 14, 2019
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Here are the dimensions of the two bushings you may need. They are from extra stout.
 

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IICrew

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Mar 29, 2020
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I recommend the bushing route. I used a II bell and clutch with a 1990 t5, classics crossmember and a pro 5.0 shifter. My v6 driveshaft fit but my v8 driveshaft was a bit too long and needed shortened.

For the early t5 use the longer bushing. I had the machine shop make both bushings out of one piece of stock oil lite using the pdf's above. It was much cheaper then just wasting the excess and then paying again if I upgrade to the longer input shaft.

I used a new stock trans mount and have vibrations above 55. I have a slightly shorter mount I have not tried yet. Check extra stouts thread where we discussed this and the part number is there for the mount I read helps the vibration but I have not tried yet.

If you get a new clutch cable be aware I had to cut 2/3 of the spring off the cable. Otherwise the spring binds and the clutch doesnt work. Also the new cable I received was longer then stock and that allowed it to clear the headers. Stock manifolds you can probably use the factory cable but i melted mine in a few minutes leading to the new one which fits much better under the hood.

My only other advice is the 1990 t5 has an almost granny gear for first using the stock 3.40 rear end. I am coming out of first by 10 mph. If your doing the rear gear as well be aware that first is geared very low on the 1990's t5. I am still getting her together but luckily have not replaced the rear gear yet and may go with something closer to a 3.0 rear end when I get to it. Keep in mind mine will be a cruiser and not a dedicated drag car.

Good luck with your build. I am still doing shakedown runs on mine but ohh man does the manual make a difference.
 
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