Ok so I have a 91 hatchback and I am using it to recreate my old highschool/tech School car. Wich was an 87 with t-tops. Now I have watched a few videos and done some research on the matter of putting t tops in the car and it's a pretty simple proses. I already have the needed parts. 87-88 t-top doors with the normal mirrors not the pedestal mirror and the roof of a 86 car. I have already gone through the work of drilling out the pop rivets and spot welds and separated the t top frame and it's ready to go back together but before I cut the roof on my good car I need to know what the difference is between the 86 master seal kit and the 87-88 so I can figure out what kit I need for what I'm trying to do I can't find any info on it I just know it's not the same part number. Is there a difference between the 84-86 and the 87-88 t-top frame itself the requires a different seal? or is it something to do with the mirror location in the laiter 88s? I know the cars them self are basically the same just some cosmic changes mostly, so any information in the matter will be greatly appreciated because I don't want to end up buying two seel kits, Thanks!
T-top seals question
- Thread starter Shiner_89e
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There is a difference in the seals and if I remember right, it's the length of the seals and how they attach to each other and to the body. I may not be 100% on that though.
One thing though, If you are using a '91 as the doner to build this, and you are using the '87-up quarter glass, you will need the '87-up trim. There is a huge difference in some of the trim pieces between '86 and '87. I'm thinking the frames were the same though. I have an '87 T-Top car and have stripped a few '86 and older cars and did not notice a difference in the frames.
When you get a T-Top seal kit, stay away from the ones CJ Pony has...complete garbage. Not even close to getting things sealed up. They were actually deformed and there was no way the door glass would seal. Threw them in the trash. I ended up getting the Soffseal brand through Summit Racing. Much better than the others. The CJ Pony door seal wasn't too bad though.
One thing though, If you are using a '91 as the doner to build this, and you are using the '87-up quarter glass, you will need the '87-up trim. There is a huge difference in some of the trim pieces between '86 and '87. I'm thinking the frames were the same though. I have an '87 T-Top car and have stripped a few '86 and older cars and did not notice a difference in the frames.
When you get a T-Top seal kit, stay away from the ones CJ Pony has...complete garbage. Not even close to getting things sealed up. They were actually deformed and there was no way the door glass would seal. Threw them in the trash. I ended up getting the Soffseal brand through Summit Racing. Much better than the others. The CJ Pony door seal wasn't too bad though.
Thanks for the info never really gave the trim a thaught but it makes I'll have to see if I can order some 87 trim as for seals I was looking at one of those master kit just pricing them out so far didn't really pay attention to the brands but I'll definitely keep that in mind and i kinda figured the drains would be the same but you never know but I think it's a safe enough bet to order the 87-88 kit sence my doors are 87s
Gonna drop this here for ya, the Ford guide to installing seals and adjusting glass...
While my door glass doesn't seal 100%, they are much better than they were.
A couple tips too:
-When installing the frame, use a good sealant between the frame and roof skin. Test fit everything first and drill the rivet holes at that point.
-There's a thin strip that goes inside the car in the rear to pinch the roof skin tight to the frame, make sure the rivets are long enough to hold that in place tightly, mine actually fell off and was laying loose between the layers.
-The screws that hold the corner trims on ( the small trims that the T-Top lock rods go through, should be approx. 1/4-3/8" long. Any longer and they puncture the seal, possibly causing a leak.
-For the T-Top felt strips, the two sided tape the came on them would not hold. I had to scrape all of it off and replace with 3M tape.
Hope this helps when you do this project.
Dave
T-Roof Waterleak Repair Manual
Ford manual for fixing those infamous T-top leaks on Fox Mustangs and Capris. Thanks to member TL86LX for sending these images to FEP for use on this website.
foureyedpride.com
While my door glass doesn't seal 100%, they are much better than they were.
A couple tips too:
-When installing the frame, use a good sealant between the frame and roof skin. Test fit everything first and drill the rivet holes at that point.
-There's a thin strip that goes inside the car in the rear to pinch the roof skin tight to the frame, make sure the rivets are long enough to hold that in place tightly, mine actually fell off and was laying loose between the layers.
-The screws that hold the corner trims on ( the small trims that the T-Top lock rods go through, should be approx. 1/4-3/8" long. Any longer and they puncture the seal, possibly causing a leak.
-For the T-Top felt strips, the two sided tape the came on them would not hold. I had to scrape all of it off and replace with 3M tape.
Hope this helps when you do this project.
Dave
Do yourself a favor and reference this page for weatherstripping.
You can also check out this thread as well. It has nothing about T-Tops but it does evaluate all the companies that actually produce the product.
www.stangnet.com
You can also check out this thread as well. It has nothing about T-Tops but it does evaluate all the companies that actually produce the product.
Once and For All.....Door to Body Weather Stripping Shootout
Ok guys. Due to lots of reading over the last few years and the fact that I just installed new door to body weatherstripping, I'm going to do something to help all of us out I hope. Ever bought a brand new car and the doors don't close? Didn't think so. I bought my car new. I ordered it as a...
www.stangnet.com
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