T5 conversion questions

Animal Lawyer

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Oct 3, 2020
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I am about to do a t5 conversion and have a few questions for anyone who has already done it. My 73 Q code vert currently has a 4 speed toploader, I have acquired a 1985 t5 (1352-018) along with an E6ZR-6394-AA bell housing.

I am trying to decide whether to keep the original bell housing and use the adapter plate (which one of the articles said can cause alignment problems) or use the T5 bellhousing and have the shop do the block and pivot modification (which means additional labor and there will be no rubber cover keeping road grit out of the opening).

From what I have read, if I use my original bellhousing I most likely will not need to shorten the drive shaft and there is a lot less labor, and I don't need to change the flywheel or starter and there is no question about the z-bar linkage working properly.

I am open to any input.

I also am questioning what shifter to use? An original 1985 Mustang T5 shifter along with a 12" Hurst 5388022 shifter stick or go for a short shifter like the pro 5.0 for the T5 (I can het a used one in near new condition for $100 that came on a 1992 mustang) or is there a better choice? I'd like the shift knob (a Hurst Tbar) to sit as close to the same height and position as my 4 speed Hurst currently sits as reasonably possible.

I will also swapping my 1973 Q code 351c for a rebuilt 1970 351c with a mild cam (based on the dyno results, I have no information about the cam at all) which dyno'd at around 340 hp at 5400 rpm before changing the manifold to the Blue Thunder ,

Finally, I want to keep the ram air, as my car is a '73 vert, my understanding is the motor mounts are about an inch lower than the 71 & 72. That being so, do I need to have the carb pad on the manifold cut down to lower the carb further before I have the manifold installed, or will it be close enough that can I squeeze it under the hood (possibly by cutting or compressing the rubber seal (I'd rather not spend the extra $150 to have the ,machine shop shave the pad down the 1/8-1/4" I might be able to get, but will if I have to). With my recent accident and the loss of 2 fingers I am unable to modify the air cleaner myself and I have no body local that I know with the welding skills to do it correctly (and I am sure the labor costs will be considerable (due to the accident I have been out from work and if I didn't already have 90% of the parts I would not be able to do this now, but I still need to budget carefully).

Thanks in advance for any input, if there are other concerns I should be considering, please tell me, if there are better ways to accomplish this I am all ears

Rich
 
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ponch0v

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Jun 23, 2008
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Per the book, it looks like the 1352-018 T5 is a NWC 2.3 trans. Possibly a bit under rated (torque) for the 351c/340hp you are going to put it behind. Also need to run a smaller pilot bearing on input shaft.

1352-018 Ford 1983-84 T-Bird/Mustang 2.3 L4 Turbogears:3.764.032.371.491.000.86

Run either bell housing. You may have shorten the drive shaft using either one.
 

ponch0v

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Jun 23, 2008
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I ran the T5 bell housing and used the original fly wheel, starter and z-bar linkage no issues. I did change to the clutch to a current diaphragm pressure plate from the old 3 finger diaphragm.
 

KRUISR

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Apr 16, 2015
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The 1352-018 is probably not going to live long behind that 351C. Fine if only putting around town, but put the power down and it will not likely last long.

Also with a 4.03 first gear, you will be shifting before you move very far. Also the 2.3L input shaft will be different than the 5.0 version you want.
 

KRUISR

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Apr 16, 2015
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Try local junk yards for a 94-98 V6 T5 - lots around. Same specs WC , input shaft to work with an SN95 5.0 bellhousing and don't need to ship from MI. If you have a bellhousing from a foxbody you will need to change input shaft and retainer, or figure out the correct spacer.

I have one from a '96 (1352-238), same gear ratios as the 169, just OD is .72 vs .68 in the 169. I used a '95 5.0 bellhousing and kept the V6 input shaft and retainer, installed great in my '90. Only mod I needed was to shorten my stock driveshaft (it could use a rebuild anyway). Cost to shorten, straighten, balance and install new u-joints both ends was just under $300 CDN including taxes.
 

Animal Lawyer

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My practice is devoted to animal law, defense of dangerous dog matters, pet custody and mainly federal civil rights litigation on behalf of animals. (Thus the natural affinity to animal named cars)
 
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Animal Lawyer

Member
Oct 3, 2020
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Huntington Station, NY
Try local junk yards for a 94-98 V6 T5 - lots around. Same specs WC , input shaft to work with an SN95 5.0 bellhousing and don't need to ship from MI. If you have a bellhousing from a foxbody you will need to change input shaft and retainer, or figure out the correct spacer.

I have one from a '96 (1352-238), same gear ratios as the 169, just OD is .72 vs .68 in the 169. I used a '95 5.0 bellhousing and kept the V6 input shaft and retainer, installed great in my '90. Only mod I needed was to shorten my stock driveshaft (it could use a rebuild anyway). Cost to shorten, straighten, balance and install new u-joints both ends was just under $300 CDN including taxes.
I don't believe the post 94 T5's have a speedo cable hookup. My stang is a 73 vert and I need the speedo, thius the requirement that the tranny be 1986-94
 

KRUISR

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Apr 16, 2015
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The speedo cable can be added up to a '98 V6. On the '94-98 cars it is an electronic speedo in the dash but the port is in the trans that can accept a Foxbody style speedo cable. I just did this with my 90 GT swap from auto to manual. In prep for it I pulled a V6 tranny from a '98 (sold it), then a '95 (still have it) and then found a rebuilt T5 from '96. All had the same speedo sender for those years and my speedo/cruise control sender from my AOD Fox fit right in.

This is what you need to replace the speedo sensor...


For comparison, this if the factory sensor in 94-98 T5's

83-93 speed sensor for speedo cable.
 
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KRUISR

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Apr 16, 2015
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Use the unit for 83-93 I listed above, just you won't have anything to plug where the cruise feed goes. That will not be a problem as the mechanical cable still spins.

Quick question. What type of end does your current speedo cable have at the gauge? When I look up 73 speedo cables I see two types, a push in style and a screw on style. Push on would be perfect as an 83-93 cable would work perfectly.
 
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KRUISR

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Just looking at pics of a 73 speedo cable trans end... you may be able to simply install straight into the transmission. Compare the length from the o-ring to the tip between your cable and the speed sensor links above. It looks they might be very similar.
 

KRUISR

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Since you don't seem to believe me regarding 94-98 V6 T5's and a mechanical speedo working on them, read what some reputable companies have to say on the topic...


 

manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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Good on ya Animal lawyer. I have a lawyer buddy who says that whenever a dog or animal gets hurt it is always a humans fault. Good luck with the swap