I posted earlier about my 66 t5 install appearing "twisted". I received my new Ron Morris rear crossmember today (earlier than I thought) and put it in. The top shifter mounting flange is parallel with the underside of the trans tunnel but the rear mounting boss is not parallel with the new crossmember. The crossmember went on with no problem at all. Someone posted a picture of their 67 t5 install and mine looks very similar. The question I have to allwho have done this is does the rear mounting flange sit like this when performing an install? I think that it is off parallel about 3/8" and was wondering if the rubber mount that fits in there (dont have it yet, expect it tomorrow) will take up this amount of misalignment. Also, does anyone have trouble inserting there yoke into tailshaft? The new bushing I put in during rebuild is very tight and my 1.500 OD yoke has to be persuaded slighty with a rubber mallet. brian
t5 install (more questions) regarding install (pt 2)
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Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
As far as the yoke goes, are you sure its the seal that is causing the problems ? Have you checked the splines on the output shaft of the trans to make sure they are clean and clear and also checked the splines on the inside of the yoke ?
The mount is adjustable, not sure if it's 3/8" adjustable though
Make sure the center line of the engine/transmission is parallel with the length of the car. Otherwise you will have a vibration.
I've read either a thread or a web site about the tail shaft bushings being too tight, but I can't remember the consensus, and have not personally rebuilt a T5. I think they may have honed the bushing, but please don't take my word on that. You should be able to find this info with a search. I will say my New T5z out of the box was a perfect slip fit for the new Ford Yoke. In all the transmissions I've built (auto and manual) I would not be happy with having to tap the yoke in. It wouldn't be long before the bushing galls then the real problems start.
Sorry I can't be more help on the mount, I used a cross member from another vendor. Just do everything you can to insure the the engine trans is straight in the chassis, and that the engine/trans angle is the same as the differential (3 degrees).
Good luck,
Make sure the center line of the engine/transmission is parallel with the length of the car. Otherwise you will have a vibration.
I've read either a thread or a web site about the tail shaft bushings being too tight, but I can't remember the consensus, and have not personally rebuilt a T5. I think they may have honed the bushing, but please don't take my word on that. You should be able to find this info with a search. I will say my New T5z out of the box was a perfect slip fit for the new Ford Yoke. In all the transmissions I've built (auto and manual) I would not be happy with having to tap the yoke in. It wouldn't be long before the bushing galls then the real problems start.
Sorry I can't be more help on the mount, I used a cross member from another vendor. Just do everything you can to insure the the engine trans is straight in the chassis, and that the engine/trans angle is the same as the differential (3 degrees).
Good luck,
trans yoke and "twisted trans reply"
I spoke to the guy who I bought the trans rebuild kit from and he "enlightened" me to a few things. first, he recommends a press verses a suitable drift/hammer to install rear t5 bushing. The hammer method usually creates a belly in the bushing that would explain the tight fit. I have a spare t5 rear assembly so I checked its fit and the yoke moves in and out nicely but the bushing is worn slightly. I bought a brake cylinder hone to open up the new bushing and if it does not work I will just swap the housings as I have to take it off anyway. While I had the rear assembly to check fit I put it down on the shifter boss and put a bubble level on the rear mounting boss. The 3/8 off level I am seeing is actual, the mounting boss is not parallel to the shifter mounting boss. I have a new t5 original rear crossmember rubber mount, do I have to buy a special one to take up the offset or will the original one conform to this? Brian
I spoke to the guy who I bought the trans rebuild kit from and he "enlightened" me to a few things. first, he recommends a press verses a suitable drift/hammer to install rear t5 bushing. The hammer method usually creates a belly in the bushing that would explain the tight fit. I have a spare t5 rear assembly so I checked its fit and the yoke moves in and out nicely but the bushing is worn slightly. I bought a brake cylinder hone to open up the new bushing and if it does not work I will just swap the housings as I have to take it off anyway. While I had the rear assembly to check fit I put it down on the shifter boss and put a bubble level on the rear mounting boss. The 3/8 off level I am seeing is actual, the mounting boss is not parallel to the shifter mounting boss. I have a new t5 original rear crossmember rubber mount, do I have to buy a special one to take up the offset or will the original one conform to this? Brian
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Most crossmembers want you to use a C4 trans mount. My Modern Driveline setup calls for a C4 mount and I think the Ron Morriss one does as well. I used a poly mount for mine because I don't really ever want to have to replace it. You can get them for 40 bux. You can get an original style C4 mount for say 10 bux or so.
LMan
Founding Member
