93CalypsoConvert

Active Member
Nov 26, 2020
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Virginia
Hello. Tore apart my transmission and found some concerning things.
Here is my 1-2 slider (be ware)
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This is one of the most chewed up sliders I've seen. I don't even know how this got this way... Synchro was fine. Probably because previous owner beat the hell out of it. Other side (1st gear) looks new.

Speaking of synchros... Here is my third gear synchro. This is the main reason that I rebuilt this thing. Absolutely NO action from this synchro. Again, likley due to this gearbox being beat hard.

IMG_2428.jpg


Here is my second gear. This is a 30 tooth second gear which seems to be harder to find and more expensive. My question to you guys is will is be OK using this? The picture makes it look worse than in real life. There is still a small amount of point definition left on the upper part of the teeth. I just spent a lot of money on a kit and the slider for this thing, I really don't feel like spending another $80 on it. If I do decide to use this, what will be the consequences? Long term effects?
IMG_2423.jpg

On more question. My main shaft has a small amount pitting/damage, causing the notorious T5 whine. So if I choose to not buy another main shaft or repair this one, am I screwed? I think it was due to improper preload on the shafts. If I stop the source of the damage, will it continue to wear? Keep in mind, my engine is not much more powerful than stock and I don't beat on my transmissions. Thanks.
 
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I’m not an expert, but how pissed would you be if you put it all back together without replacing the main shaft and something was wrong? All that work, the money you invested, isn’t it worth it when you weigh the whole thing versus just the cost of a main shaft? That’s always my line of thinking though. In for a penny, in for a pound.
 
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I’m not an expert, but how pissed would you be if you put it all back together without replacing the main shaft and something was wrong? All that work, the money you invested, isn’t it worth it when you weigh the whole thing versus just the cost of a main shaft? That’s always my line of thinking though. In for a penny, in for a pound.
That's what I was afraid of. Oh well, guess I'll fix it. Thanks.
 
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So I'm having a hard time deciding on what do to about my damaged main shaft. I'm in the process of rebuilding my T5 and on top of the main issues, it has that notorious T5 whine. The main shaft is galled. I've heard that there are a few ways to remedy this, like sleeves or complete replacement. I'm already spending WAY more than I expected as there were multiple gears that needed replacing, so I'm hesitant on spending all the money on an entirely new shaft. So that leaves me with either repairing or leaving it alone. What methods are there to repair this shaft? I think I've also heard about someone taking it to a machine shop where they welded over it, then re-machined it? Also, just curious, what are the consequences of leaving it alone and having the old "out of sight out of mind" mentality about it?

Thanks.
 
Take it to a machine shop and ask them their thoughts on installing a hardened sleeve.

Price out a few good mainshafts as well, the pricing may end up being roughly similar.

if you leave it alone, it’s going to be noisy as hell in all gears but 4th and continue to deteriorate.

another option is to machine it for a 93 cobra pocket bearing, but I haven’t been able to find the dimensions for some time to machine the shaft to, as well as the difficult task of locating the proper pocket bearing specific input shaft to use.
 
Those gear dog teeth will cause the slider to wear out again. I have the same issue with my t5z. Never really beat on the transmission but it got hard to get in gear...the detent spring keepers ( or whatever ya wanna call them ) got dents in them and locked me out of fully engaging the gear.
 
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I agree, that gear is garbage. It'll start popping out of gear soon and as said above, it'll wear faster. I used to build 2 T5s a week, back in the day, now not so much. Anyway, I know Liberty Gear in MI has a way to repair your output shaft. Once the surface coating gets worn and pitted, it'll destroy any roller bearings you put on it. Then it'll lose preload and the shaft will wobble around causing the whine to get worse. Jmho.
 
First off I THOUGHT this was a 3.97 1st 4cyl transmission, but upon further inspection I discovered it has the 3.35 cluster (second gear was stamped 1352-080-060, which is the part number for the 2nd gear on the 3.35 ratio cluster) my counter shaft has 1352-077-938-B27 stamped in it, so it gave me no information as to what it was. My id tag was missing as well.

Now, here is where my real confusion comes in. I have heard that you need a special pilot bearing for 4cyl t5s to go into the v8s, BUT my input shaft is part number 1352-085-025. I believe that this is the v8 input which can be used with the normal pilot bushing. Can someone please confirm this for me? I can't seem to find out.

Secondly, I am having my main shaft turned and getting a hardened sleeve being pressed over it. Can someone please give me the exact specs for this part of the shaft so I can give it to the machine stop?

Finally, my transmission has the notorious T5 whine which damaged the input shaft (input gear teeth worn to knife-like edges, fortunately the counter gear remained undamaged) and main shaft (classic case of the galled/pitted surface). I am purchasing another identical input shaft and repairing my main shaft. My question is, what can I do in order to prevent this from happening again?? I am spend a ridiculous amount of money on this thing and I don't want to have it fail in another 5000 miles. So what steps can I take to ensure this galling/pitting problem will never happen again?

Thanks.
 
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Dude, you need to stop right there. Someone continued to beat on that transmission long after it needed repair. You are already way over the budget of buying a T5 in reasonable working order, and repairing minor things like seals and blocker rings. The stuff you have in the pictures is trashed. The inside of that blocker ring has scoring from bad transmission fluid (wrong viscosity, insufficient, or overheated; doesn't matter), which means there are other problems in the transmission. I guarantee you are going to get the same advice if you emailed those pictures to Astro, Hanlon, Liberty, or Gforce.

Kurt
 
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I'm not going to go as far as to say drop $2k on a new transmission, particularly on a T5z which isn't that great, and not worth $2k. However, going on Copart and getting a used transmission is the way to go right now. Even if it's out of a 4 cylinder. If you drop a few hundred dollars on a used transmission that hasn't had the snot beat out of it, you are going to be better off. You are more than likely to have enough parts to get one good working transmission in order. Maybe some seals and bearings aside, but you won't be spending near a grand on sliders and gears. I've rebuilt T5s entirely off of sharp finds on ebay, but when you have that many parts in real bad shape, even ebay isn't going to make it a fiscally responsible decision.

Kurt
 
My point with the new trans is that the route the OP is going is starting to make costs escalate into a range of just spending a few more bucks and getting a brand spanking new trans with a warranty. For the amount of abuse that particular T5 has taken, I’m not sure I’d put that sort of money/work into it and still have mostly used/trashed/unknown parts in it.

a better route might be to snag a new SN95 T5 or even an 05-10 V6 T5 and then use parts from his T5 (tailshaft and top cover) to make it fox compatible, and just buy a new fox input shaft/bearing retainer. That might be the most cost effective route, but it will require digging into the trans and fabricating a hybrid from two or more different parts trans

or you say the hell with it and buy a T-56 :shrug:
 
My point with the new trans is that the route the OP is going is starting to make costs escalate into a range of just spending a few more bucks and getting a brand spanking new trans with a warranty. For the amount of abuse that particular T5 has taken, I’m not sure I’d put that sort of money/work into it and still have mostly used/trashed/unknown parts in it.

a better route might be to snag a new SN95 T5 or even an 05-10 V6 T5 and then use parts from his T5 (tailshaft and top cover) to make it fox compatible, and just buy a new fox input shaft/bearing retainer. That might be the most cost effective route, but it will require digging into the trans and fabricating a hybrid from two or more different parts trans

or you say the hell with it and buy a T-56 :shrug:
That's exactly what I am saying. That transmission is trashed. It's as bad as it gets. I've had dozens of these things apart, and I have never seen one that bad. All the teeth are worn down the to nubbiness. I could probably do some ebay magic and get that thing back together for less than a new one, but it would still be way more than finding a good replacement. Go on Copart, get a replacement, take it apart and fix little things, not expensive parts. If that transmission showed up at my shop, I'd salvage the useable parts, and throw the rest in the scrap metal can.

Kurt
 
Think about it like this. All that metal went all through that transmission. If you looked closely you'd probably find traces of it in every bearing in that thing. With a sn95 or new edge v6 t5 you only need a 94 to 95 bellhousing. The shifter will sit back further but you may not even notice that driving. Thats the cheapest easiest solution. Most of those v6 cars weren't beat on.