Teach me the ways of the Sawzall

66P51GT said:
Sorry 'bout that

Try this one: Here is an alternative solution

Hmmm, that is an interesting alternative. Of course in his example the bushing isn't a problem and the rocker panel is solid. I'm curious how well it will work if the bolt and the bushing are one via rust though?

Seeing this gave me a new idea though. It would seem that with a small enough jack or reversed squeeze clamp, you could manage basically the same thing to force it out.
 
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Pakrat said:
Hmmm, that is an interesting alternative. Of course in his example the bushing isn't a problem and the rocker panel is solid. I'm curious how well it will work if the bolt and the bushing are one via rust though?

Seeing this gave me a new idea though. It would seem that with a small enough jack or reversed squeeze clamp, you could manage basically the same thing to force it out.

You're right Pak, In most cases I've seen, the bolt is rusted solid to the bushing's steel insert. The other thing is, sometimes the nut is rusted on and you're lucky if you can break the bolt trying to get it off.

About the only other method I might use would be to use a 4" grinder to grint the nut and end of the bolt off, that way you only have to cut the bolt between the frame and the spring. It's just a big pain in the butt anyway you look at it.
 
When i did mine i cut the spring loose from the eye, and then ripped out the rubber bushing and just the bolt and inner steel sleeve was left. The sleeve has a seam in it, i took a dremel with a cutoff wheel along the seam and then a big flathead in the slot, gave it a turn and the thing opened up and the bolt slid out. just my 2/100ths of a buck.
 
Use a torch to heat up both ends of the bolt...one at a time of course...keeping in mind to not melt the frame work...then break them off with a hammer and chisel. Once 'snapped' off, pry the bushing, housing and bolt from the frame. Works for me. I have grown tired of 'cutting' the bolt ends off. Takes twenty minutes per side.