Engine The Dreaded Code 332

joetrainer31

5 Year Member
Mar 31, 2013
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This post is for guys like me who are suffering from trouble code Darth332 (aka low EGR flow), have no access to a vacuum guage, cannot afford a shop, and have read other help posts on the subject. My purpose is to save someone some time and money now that I've spent plenty of both fixing my code 332.

There are really only 4 points to look at when attempting to fix code 332. I'll list them below w/a recommended order.

1) Check those crusty old vac lines (the green one). Better yet, spend $10 & get new 3/16"x5' fuel line (Autozone part #50054 Armor Mark), and some vac connectors (PepBoys part #47303). This one step would have solved my issue completely. Disconn battery, wait 30 minutes, reconn battery, drive.

If code 332 still exists you now know that it is indeed a part and not a vac line that is bad. As a bonus, you now have a new supple vac line and not a crusty piece of fragile glass for vac line.

You probably read other posts about checking the EGR. Check it if possible. If not, and you see that it is OEM from 1995 be suspicious. Although, there are cheaper parts to consider like...

2) The EGR control solenoid (PepBoys part #EGR285). This bad boy is inside the passenger side inner fender well. The tire needs to come off to change it as does the fender well. I listed this one next because it is least likely to have been changed due to its aggravating location (thanks Ford engineers), and its only about $30ish. Clear ECM memory and drive again. If code returns...

3) There is the EGR sensor (PepBoys part #EGR102(P). Some of the sensors have a (P) after them, but some do not. What's the diff you ask? As far as I can tell, some have a "P" in the part number and some do not. Also, beware that this sensor is NOT sold with a new sensor to EGR gasket so do not tear your old one. In order to get the new sensor gasket you will need to buy the EGR valve itself (tricky huh?). Anyhow, the sensor is only $30ish. Test drive. If code 332 is still slapping you in the face then...

4) Replace the EGR valve (PepBoys part #EGR1234). This takes some time due to the ridiculously difficult fit of the EGR tube from header to valve. This can be done w/o removing the manifold, but it takes patience and finesse. If you've reached this point and are going to replace the EGR also take a couple of minutes and make sure the EGR tube is not full of carbon. Just poke a long screw driver in there and see. Also, check for carbon at the EGR to manifold port after the valve has been removed.

5) If you happened to break some of the 20 year old bumper push pins which hold the fender well to the frame never fear! You can get them at PepBoys (part #Dorman 963-001).

I hope this is helpful to someone, and no, I do not work for PepBoys. They just had a 25% off sale so I bought my parts there. Peace and chicken grease!
 
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90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2011
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Between the Red and Rio
This post is for guys like me who are suffering from trouble code Darth332 (aka low EGR flow), have no access to a vacuum guage, cannot afford a shop, and have read other help posts on the subject. My purpose is to save someone some time and money now that I've spent plenty of both fixing my code 332.

There are really only 4 points to look at when attempting to fix code 332. I'll list them below w/a recommended order.

1) Check those crusty old vac lines (the green one). Better yet, spend $10 & get new 3/16"x5' fuel line (Autozone part #50054 Armor Mark), and some vac connectors (PepBoys part #47303). This one step would have solved my issue completely. Disconn battery, wait 30 minutes, reconn battery, drive.

If code 332 still exists you now know that it is indeed a part and not a vac line that is bad. As a bonus, you now have a new supple vac line and not a crusty piece of fragile glass for vac line.

You probably read other posts about checking the EGR. Check it if possible. If not, and you see that it is OEM from 1995 be suspicious. Although, there are cheaper parts to consider like...

2) The EGR control solenoid (PepBoys part #EGR285). This bad boy is inside the passenger side inner fender well. The tire needs to come off to change it as does the fender well. I listed this one next because it is least likely to have been changed due to its aggravating location (thanks Ford engineers), and its only about $30ish. Clear ECM memory and drive again. If code returns...

3) There is the EGR sensor (PepBoys part #EGR102(P). Some of the sensors have a (P) after them, but some do not. What's the diff you ask? As far as I can tell, some have a "P" in the part number and some do not. Also, beware that this sensor is NOT sold with a new sensor to EGR gasket so do not tear your old one. In order to get the new sensor gasket you will need to buy the EGR valve itself (tricky huh?). Anyhow, the sensor is only $30ish. Test drive. If code 332 is still slapping you in the face then...

4) Replace the EGR valve (PepBoys part #EGR1234). This takes some time due to the ridiculously difficult fit of the EGR tube from header to valve. This can be done w/o removing the manifold, but it takes patience and finesse. If you've reached this point and are going to replace the EGR also take a couple of minutes and make sure the EGR tube is not full of carbon. Just poke a long screw driver in there and see. Also, check for carbon at the EGR to manifold port after the valve has been removed.

5) If you happened to break some of the 20 year old bumper push pins which hold the fender well to the frame never fear! You can get them at PepBoys (part #Dorman 963-001).

I hope this is helpful to someone, and no, I do not work for PepBoys. They just had a 25% off sale so I bought my parts there. Peace and chicken grease!
You fix cars about like I do. Plenty of new parts under the hood due to a hose.
 

joetrainer31

5 Year Member
Mar 31, 2013
845
352
104
46
SC
Dartboard mechanics. Put lit of 'maybe' fixes on dartboard, throw dart. Whatever it hits get's replaced!
Lol. I wasn't quite that seemingly random. I was trying to logically work my way through from least likely to have been changed/least expensive to more likely/most expensive. My problem was forgetting about the old, brittle hard vac hoses. I got side tracked when I saw that all the aforementioned parts were factory original (i.e., 20 years old!).
 
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