This actually arrived a couple days early. I should be finished with the welding portion of the cart today. Not sure if I’ll be able to paint it for a little while since it’s pretty humid today.
Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe - final sheet metal repairs
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Spent the last couple of days putting the finishing touches on the cart. Welded the components I salvaged from the old one yesterday.
I use a coupe of short lengths of angle I had leftover to build a standoff for the bottle holder. The mount is deep to allow long bolts to be use to secure it. I didn't feel like cutting and welding it back together.
Next to its predecessor. I'd bet that this would probably be at least a $700 cart if one were to buy one similarly made.
Stripped down and cleaned up for paint.
I was trying to figure out how I wanted to paint it when I had a stroke of genius. One coat of primer and gloss black enamel later:
I use a coupe of short lengths of angle I had leftover to build a standoff for the bottle holder. The mount is deep to allow long bolts to be use to secure it. I didn't feel like cutting and welding it back together.
Next to its predecessor. I'd bet that this would probably be at least a $700 cart if one were to buy one similarly made.
Stripped down and cleaned up for paint.
I was trying to figure out how I wanted to paint it when I had a stroke of genius. One coat of primer and gloss black enamel later:
Still having to split these up. No error messages, but no post.
Ready for war. Almost. I'm going to give it a couple of days to cure before I go ahead and put the welder and bottle on it.
After finishing the cart, I sort of just muddled around the garage. I managed to once again mock up the fender aprons and radiator support along with the hood and fenders. The one-piece apron on the passenger side is bowed with both the front and back ends being too far inward. They fight each other when I try to pull either side where it needs to be. I decided to get a Dynacorn battery apron since I already have the rear Dynacorn piece. This way I won't have to deal with the current apron. I don't think it's a Dynacorn piece. Another lackluster reproduction with a Dynacorn part number from CJ Pony Parts under their CJ Classics line.
Ready for war. Almost. I'm going to give it a couple of days to cure before I go ahead and put the welder and bottle on it.
After finishing the cart, I sort of just muddled around the garage. I managed to once again mock up the fender aprons and radiator support along with the hood and fenders. The one-piece apron on the passenger side is bowed with both the front and back ends being too far inward. They fight each other when I try to pull either side where it needs to be. I decided to get a Dynacorn battery apron since I already have the rear Dynacorn piece. This way I won't have to deal with the current apron. I don't think it's a Dynacorn piece. Another lackluster reproduction with a Dynacorn part number from CJ Pony Parts under their CJ Classics line.
As long as it does measures the same then even money
Hers some stuff from inter webs
40 7/8" at the front, at the back edge of the rad. support.
40 1/4" in the middle, at the front edge of the Monte Carlo bar bracket.
41 1/4" at the rear, inside the U-shaped notches just in front of the firewall.
Hope these dimensions help.
Hers some stuff from inter webs
40 7/8" at the front, at the back edge of the rad. support.
40 1/4" in the middle, at the front edge of the Monte Carlo bar bracket.
41 1/4" at the rear, inside the U-shaped notches just in front of the firewall.
Hope these dimensions help.
Thanks! So far I've been using the measurements that @horse sence gave me earlier in the thread. I can't really find any diagonal measurements anywhere.
I'm going to go with the measurements I've already been given. I'm also going to follow my gut and assume that the engine bay is intended to be square. Once I get the radiator support to cowl measurements correct, I'll measure the diagonal of both sides to see if they match. If they do, I'm good. If they're within 1/8", and as long as I can get the fenders and hood square with good gaps, I'll also consider it good.
On a random note, my father-in-law is a paint and body guy by trade; semi-retired now, but been at it since at least the '70s, possibly even '60s. They're currently visiting. While looking at the car he commented that the work I'm doing would run me about $30k in labor at a reputable body shop. Honestly, I'm not really surprised.
wicked93gs
15 Year Member
horse sence
15 Year Member
I finally got my miller working again and now the temp dial will no longer go below 150 ,it used to go below 119 and 119 was perfect for mustang sheet metal ,i will never buy a miller again ,its been one thing after another with this thing right from the start . I miss my old snap on welder
I really like my Hobart. You weld a lot more than I do, so I'm not sure how well it would hold up under more continuous use. However, I couldn't be happier with mine.
I'm going to try to Hobart welding gel next time I weld on the Mustang. It's supposed to help keep spatter off the contact tip and cone and has really good reviews. My old cone was really bad with getting spatter, so I just replaced it. The old one was so pitted that it was probably messing with gas flow.
horse sence
15 Year Member
Yeah this was mechanical problems right from the start . ,my old snap on went 25 years and i only replaces the hose and gun one time ,i have replaced it twice already in 4 years
Decided to finally unbox the rotisserie so I could free up more space around the car. It worked like a charm since there was a lot of unused space in that box.
Pretty much all of it tucked nicely between the air compressor and the shelving.
After that I did a little on the car. I removed the fenders and hood to fit the Dynacorn battery apron that arrived last week. This one, along with the rear apron I bought when I was expecting to use the '67 battery tray with no mods, fits much better than the single piece stamping.
I do think that my shock towers have sagged inward. I took advantage of having the extra hydraulic rams from the rotisserie and used one to force them a bit further apart. I'm getting right at 40" between top inside corners of the aprons. Is the shock tower bolt measurement made from the center of each hole? I'd like to make sure everything is right before I make anything permanent. Even though I'm not planning to use my shock towers eventually, I still want to use them to help get things looking right.
The driver's side apron still isn't wanting to sit quite right. I'm going to drill out the spot welds to help me manipulate it more. It looks like it wasn't spot welded together quite right anyway.
It's going to be some time before I can really work on this thing. I need to take a few weeks off sometime later in the winter or early spring so I can get this done and on the rotisserie in time for the return of nicer weather and warmer temps. Then I can get it blasted and in epoxy primer.
Pretty much all of it tucked nicely between the air compressor and the shelving.
After that I did a little on the car. I removed the fenders and hood to fit the Dynacorn battery apron that arrived last week. This one, along with the rear apron I bought when I was expecting to use the '67 battery tray with no mods, fits much better than the single piece stamping.
I do think that my shock towers have sagged inward. I took advantage of having the extra hydraulic rams from the rotisserie and used one to force them a bit further apart. I'm getting right at 40" between top inside corners of the aprons. Is the shock tower bolt measurement made from the center of each hole? I'd like to make sure everything is right before I make anything permanent. Even though I'm not planning to use my shock towers eventually, I still want to use them to help get things looking right.
The driver's side apron still isn't wanting to sit quite right. I'm going to drill out the spot welds to help me manipulate it more. It looks like it wasn't spot welded together quite right anyway.
It's going to be some time before I can really work on this thing. I need to take a few weeks off sometime later in the winter or early spring so I can get this done and on the rotisserie in time for the return of nicer weather and warmer temps. Then I can get it blasted and in epoxy primer.
wicked93gs
15 Year Member
Yes, the guy I got those measurements from said they came off of an original unmolested car...center to center for all the holes. Do realize though that if you take the shock caps off, those mounting holes for the studs are slotted...meaning if you found another original unmolested car to measure from it might be +/- 1/16" depending on assembly. Judging by your pics though everything is lining up the same way mine did.
horse sence
15 Year Member
I dont like the panels that are already spot welded together ,they are never welded correctly ,its looking good !
I did the exact same to mine yrs ago and it then took an alignment correctly for the first time in yrs
Had to do bottom and top to get em right. I think my car spent time as an airborne ranger
Love all the progress
