Build Thread The Hoopty Build
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http://yfrog.com/0cfile7555z
Couldn't get the idle video to post, so here's a link.
Edit: Crap. I can't get it to work. Can I email it to someone to post?
Couldn't get the idle video to post, so here's a link.
Edit: Crap. I can't get it to work. Can I email it to someone to post?
I am determined to drive this thing before I leave again on the 26th. But the tiny details are fighting me every step of the way. I have the fuel pump and regulator, just need to buy line and fittings. Almost there....
Ever think of buying something from gaugeplates.com to mount those switches on? They can do a custom setup for you with switches and gauges anywhere you want. I'm probably going to be buying something from them for my own build.
I've never looked into that. I want to do something nice in there. What's in the pictures is really temporary
I just have to drive it once before I leave again. I'd lose my marbles having to wait 5 weeks to drive a car that is 99.5% complete.
Ok,...Put me back in the "confused" section. When I first looked in on your build you were building a 408 for a bracket race car. I remember because I confused Reef Blues pics w/ your build thread comments, and begged you not to use those plastic seats. When you started to become conflicted w/ the final CR on your old engine, and started talking about going turbo, I assumed that you were building a street car again, because a turbo car has no place in bracket racing (too much power = inconsistency). I don't know why you decided to trade the 408 you were building (and just assembled) for the 4 something you bought, ( not that it matters) but again...I'm confused, as the mantra in BR is the more consistent the better,....read: the slower the better.
Not that the old 408 would've been slow,....I was just assuming that you bought the new engine because it was a better, faster combo, but you already had what you needed for the job before you spent the 5k+ for the new combo.
Looking at your recent photos, it looks like a race car again, and your burning desire to drive it before you go has me thinking that you should get used to not driving it instead, as if your aspirations for it is a race car, it only gets driven when it gets raced ( for a 1/4 mile at a time, and then parked between the 7 days from Saturday to Saturday)
So bring me up to speed please. Is this a race car/ a race car that you occasionally drive on the street/or a street car that you occasionally take to the track?
As the 408 wa being assembled, a 427 with the big shot system, art Carr c4, turn key ready to run was put up for sale for 5k. I bought it.
This is an equal track/street car but will be set up as a drag car.
I'm holding out on posting pictures solely because all that is happening is I'll get one issue sorted an find another.
Yesterday I finished the fuel system and as I topped off the tranny with fluid, I found a hole in the cooler. Once I bypass that temporarily, I can drive it around the block and see how it is.
1 step forward, 2 back.
Yesterday I finished the fuel system and as I topped off the tranny with fluid, I found a hole in the cooler. Once I bypass that temporarily, I can drive it around the block and see how it is.
1 step forward, 2 back.
I drove it 3 miles from my buddies shop to my house. It runs awful, hahahah. Im going to have it tuned when I get back, carbs are a black box of magic as far as I am concerned. I will buy a A/F gauge though, that should help me keep an eye on things.
Back on the boat for 5 weeks. Leaving Sunday.
BUT I GOT TO DRIVE IT!!!
Back on the boat for 5 weeks. Leaving Sunday.
BUT I GOT TO DRIVE IT!!!
I ordered an Innovate MTX-L to help tune this pig and will be getting a jet kit in a few days. I have to point out that this is my first hitch offshore in 2 years where I have managed to control my spending to this one purchase. UNHEARD OF. Gonna pay off some bills next month too, which should free up some income for a custom cage.
I've got some other questions that will probably get my hand slapped but whatever, it relates to my build.
There is a '97 cobra being parted out locally and I'd like to get the brakes on all 4 corners. What would be a reasonable offer? Do I need the lines too? Will they clear my 15" wheels? <--- this being my main concern.
Thanks.
Oh, and I have been unable to sell my 408. I have lowered the price to the point of giving the d amn heads away for free and still no bites
. Maybe we are in a depression. Sheesh. The contacts I did receive made offers as if they were buying a 100k mile 302 shortblock. 
I've got some other questions that will probably get my hand slapped but whatever, it relates to my build.
There is a '97 cobra being parted out locally and I'd like to get the brakes on all 4 corners. What would be a reasonable offer? Do I need the lines too? Will they clear my 15" wheels? <--- this being my main concern.
Thanks.
Oh, and I have been unable to sell my 408. I have lowered the price to the point of giving the d amn heads away for free and still no bites
. Maybe we are in a depression. Sheesh. The contacts I did receive made offers as if they were buying a 100k mile 302 shortblock.
I ordered an Innovate MTX-L to help tune this pig and will be getting a jet kit in a few days. I have to point out that this is my first hitch offshore in 2 years where I have managed to control my spending to this one purchase. UNHEARD OF. Gonna pay off some bills next month too, which should free up some income for a custom cage.
I've got some other questions that will probably get my hand slapped but whatever, it relates to my build.
There is a '97 cobra being parted out locally and I'd like to get the brakes on all 4 corners. What would be a reasonable offer? Do I need the lines too? Will they clear my 15" wheels? <--- this being my main concern.
Thanks.
Oh, and I have been unable to sell my 408. I have lowered the price to the point of giving the d amn heads away for free and still no bites
I would imagine that a 13" rotor, w/ the caliper adding another 1.5-2", stuffed under a 15" wheel is gonna end that series of questions, and your need to wonder about a reasonable dollar offer at the same time.
I would imagine that a 13" rotor, w/ the caliper adding another 1.5-2", stuffed under a 15" wheel is gonna end that series of questions, and your need to wonder about a reasonable dollar offer at the same time.
Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Next question then is would I get any benefit out of running GT rear brakes over the stock drums in the rear?
considering that the lion share of your stopping force comes from the front, I cant see any benefit in upgrading the rears. I'm not sure that there is any weight savings to be gained, and the drag associated from one type or the other is probably negligible.
So I'd say,..no.
There is weight savings to be gained from racing brake setups like wilwood or aerospace,... but your wallet will be alot lighter as well.
I was actually just looking at the Aerospace kits. Not totally unreasonable. I'm not worried about weight savings, I want to stop this horse if I need to.
Holley jet kit, 3" universal X pipe, and 3" Dynomax Bullets have been ordered on top of the wideband. Should be stripes in the street in front of the house in a week or so. Gonna test how fast the police response is since I know that the neighbors all have them on speed dial. I'm the youngest on the street by an easy 30 years and would say the average age is 75. Haha
Flying home Monday. It's been another trip from hell that needs to end yesterday.
Flying home Monday. It's been another trip from hell that needs to end yesterday.
My buddy emailed me the video from when I drove it home. It ran like ass, but I didn't have time to do any tuning. It was pig rich and still needs lots of other things before I drive it again. But here it is, enjoy.
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